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06-13-2001, 03:33 AM | #1 |
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Engine recommendation - - - reality has screwed up my plans
I've been planning on getting a 427 stroked 351W but after hearing that strokers tend to last about 50k miles before excessive oil burning due to piston ring wear (excessive piston side loads stress the rings) i'm having 2nd thoughts. Here's my goals:
Low-mid 12's and relatively streetable fat powerband, lots of torque in all gears and most rpms. Staying carbureted and with a T5 based trans I don't really want a high revving engine (say 7k and above) I'm willing to consider all options including staying 302 or 351, or even mild strokers. I really value ALL opinions, so please throw out any ideas about combos you guys have. I'm in no rush either because this build will be over the course of a couple of years (to set up the chassis/drivetrain). Thanks, ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car [This message has been edited by 84stangLX (edited 06-13-2001).] |
06-13-2001, 04:52 AM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: San Jose, California USA
Posts: 275
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302 + Heads/Intake/Cam + Supercharger = 12's Atleast (with decent traction). I don't know how it would work with a carb but im sure it will. Anyone?
------------------ 1993 Mustang GT - March Ram Air & Pullies, K&N, C&L 73mm MAF, 3.73 Gears, Super Competition Hooker Headers, 2 1/2 in. High Flow H-Pipe & Cat Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, 16* Timing Advance, 8.5mm MSD Super Cunductor Plug Wires, Romoved front Sway Bar, Pro-Shift Lite, LX lights |
06-13-2001, 10:32 AM | #3 |
Being stroked is great
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 772
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A strong running 302 should be able to pull that off all-motor. Something like the TFS head/intake/cam package would get you close. Small shot of nitrous would finish it off easily.
------------------ 1991 LX Hatch 5.0L |
06-13-2001, 11:21 AM | #4 |
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,001
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If you want a fat torque curve, you can't beat fuel injection dude. That and FI allows for easier supercharging.
A GT-40 longblock and an off-the-shelf Novi 2000 will absolutely have you in the 12's. You can get a preassembled wiring harness from Ford Racing if you see that as an obstacle. Just my .02 ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch |
06-13-2001, 12:02 PM | #5 |
The Redneck James Bond
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Fayetteville NC
Posts: 1,707
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Well my recommandation goes out of your guide lines. I guy at work who used to Bracket race did this to his 90 5.0 LX, and it screamed, I MEAN SCREAMED. And he said was relatively inexpensive, considering the speed. But he did most of the work and fabrication himself.
460 BABY. OH YEAH, 385 SERIES in a FOX BODY. That should be enough cubes to satisfy anyone. ------------------ 64 1/2 "D" code Red Mustang Coupe. 289, C4, Mallory duel point. Ported & Polished 65 heads shaved .01 with 351 valves, 11:1 comp, 1.7:1 rockers, blue wolverine lumpy cam, modified 4100 Hipo 4 barrel. GT Apperance pkg. And to many others to list 2000 Perf Red Mustang GT. 5spd. BBK Underdrive pulleys, Flotech off-road H pipe. Hurst T-Handle, 40 series Flowmasters, Steeda Tri-Ax 64 1/2 red 6cyl coupe. |
06-13-2001, 12:04 PM | #6 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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I don't see 12's as much of an obstacle for a 302 or a 351 with a carb and the right setup. But I'd definately look into an EFI conversion.
If you're dead set on staying carbed I'd say get a 351 block bored, balanced, and blueprinted with all the extras, a set of Twisted Wedge heads, Victor intake, 750cfm carb, custom grind cam for mid to high end power, roller rockers, a set of 1 3/4 long tubes, full 3" exhaust, 50 shot of NO2, etc. Then sink some money into the suspension and you should be able to hit 12's with a set of slicks no problem (maybe even 11's). ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
06-13-2001, 03:02 PM | #7 |
Procharged!
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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I would also suggest the EFI conversion as it is the ultimate turn key reliability.
I went 12.16 @ 111mph first time out, combo listed below. It's a 302 and is very streetable, should go mid 11's with the 4:30's. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! FIRST TIME OUT 12.16@111 WHEELS-UP |
06-13-2001, 03:47 PM | #8 |
Tires Fear Me...
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 867
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I would say look at Rick91GT's or Skylers setup to get ya there..Good Luck
------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC del, rear seat del. |
06-13-2001, 04:04 PM | #9 |
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I figure once i have this engine built my car will basically be useless on the street anyways for daily driving, but i would like to be able to go cruising occasionally and drive back and forth from the track. Supercharging and nitrous aren't out of the question either, but i don't want to run alot of boost or NOS. Vortech makes an adapter for a carburetor that mounts up just like the throttle body of a mustang (but alone it's $500), but i've heard tuning with NOS and superchargers are kinda hard. The reason i want to stick with a carburetor is because for the trouble and cost of putting in EFI i could go out and buy an EFI car. There's also aftermarket EFI systems i could look at. I'm looking to spend probably not much more than $3500 on the engine. I can assemble/measure it myself as well. How much horsepower/torque will i need to get into the 12's?
Thanks guys, you're coming up with some great ideas! ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car |
06-13-2001, 06:04 PM | #10 |
The Dude
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,262
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Ya, what Rick 91GT has shows you what you need. Just heads/intake/exh/cam/3.73 put him into the low 12s. A 302 can get into the 12s easily with just that, as you can see.
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06-13-2001, 09:18 PM | #11 |
Procharged!
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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Thanks for all the comments guys
The key to getting into the 12's isn't all motor, its suspension.It all about TRACTION. I was able to get my stock head, cam, intake, TB, mass Air, injector car into the 12's. It went a best of 12.87 @104 but was normally a low 13.1-13.2 car. I concentrated on all the suspenison first getting all my power to the ground, that way when I put the built motor in I already had a solid foundation. I would do all the suspension, k-member and all first. The k-member is the only thing I didn't do first but that is going to be next winters project, with HAL coil overs. Then any decent built motor will take you into the 12's or 11's. Really think out your combo and I would suggest a custom cam if you can do it, the Anderson grind made a huge difference in my combo. ------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! FIRST TIME OUT 12.16@111 WHEELS-UP [This message has been edited by Rick 91GT (edited 06-13-2001).] |
06-13-2001, 09:45 PM | #12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Ontario canada
Posts: 446
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12 useless on the street no way maybe a hi comp 302 but not a lower comp running boost or n2o is docile on the street if properly set up . I'm working on a turbo 393 that will replace my n2o 393 which i drive when ever i can "if i dont have to drive once i get to work " crussing on weekends and even GOD laughing at me in the snow last year after my Dad cracked up my van .
I would be running below 11.99 with my combo but after tech i put the bottle back in and ran a bad 11.93 and was waved down on the return road need a cage upgrade and new valve stems before i can use the bottle and not get in kaka." Cage would be done if i could weld So if street driving worries you go 351 it helps tame the beast. ------------------ 89 with 395 single stage n2o and 373's need suspention upgrade |
06-14-2001, 01:59 AM | #13 |
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Thanks everyone!
I'm still in a tossup about what to get, but i have a lot of ideas now. I really appreciate all your ideas. -Rick91GT, the first thing i'm doing is stiffening my chassis (just ordered some full length subframe connectors, and strut tower brace). I'm also going to get a rear shock tower brace fabricated and weld in a 6 point (at least) roll bar. I also want to go through and reinforce and weld the torque boxes and upper control arms mounts. After that i'll get a drag race springs/shocks, control arms and some sort of traction device like southside traction bars or lift bars or something....anyways..... Thanks again, i really appreciate everyone's help. ------------------ '84 Mustang 5.0 LX My car |
06-14-2001, 04:05 AM | #14 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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Rick is right. It's all about traction. That was my main problem last time out and it really hurt my times which you see in my sig. I should be able to hit 12's with my engine setup, but I kinda went about my mods bass ackwards not starting with the suspension, but I really haven't added much stuff that wasn't needed. Almost everything I have added has been to replace a stock worn out part so I figured while I'm replacing this, I might as well do that, etc.
South Side lift bars help a ton. I have a buddy with them and his car will stick you in the seat from a good high RPM launch. Just remember... there's always a weak link. Once you get the car able to launch at 5000rpm without spinning halfway down the track you can bet your @ss something else is going to go. Whether it's the tranny, driveshaft, axles, or whatever. So be prepared. Good luck! ------------------ Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here ICQ# 42269241 |
06-14-2001, 08:58 AM | #15 |
Procharged!
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Hanover, PA
Posts: 1,539
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Kevin's right, my clutch is starting to slip now after just 3 5000+ rpm launches, guess this King Cobra just isn't up to the challenge. Looks like I'll go back to the CF DF again, with it's instant grab. I went to the CF pressure plate with the KC disk so that I would have a little slip off the line hoping to kepp my T-5 alive, but I'm doing the rear now and I guess maybe a Tremec if the T-5 doesn't hold up, but I have faith in my little T-5. Good Luck on the combo 84
------------------ Check Out My Site 91GT,Holley SysteMAX II Kit-Heads 2.02" x 1.60" port matched to a 1262,Anderson N-61,24#,76mm C&L,Full MAC exhaust 1-5/8" Long tubes,2-1/2" O.R H-Pipe,2 1/2" cat back, No A/C or PS or emissions, 12" K&N Filter,RNH PERFORMANCE Ram Air,Ron Davis Radiator,Full Suspension,S&W 8pt "X" brace,JAZ seats,3:73's,Welds..etc,4:30's and 31 splines coming very soon! FIRST TIME OUT 12.16@111 WHEELS-UP |
06-14-2001, 05:33 PM | #16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: ny
Posts: 197
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a basically stock 351 will put you in the 12's. cheap and easy. you want streetable, go with a 302 and make less torque. less torque will allow you to drive around without spinning the tires all the time. set the motor up to make power above 3000 rpm. fuel injection offers easier startup but thats it. carbs make tons of hp and have more adjustability. in theory it takes 300 hp to go 12.00 in a 3000 lb car. so it doesnt take much. a 302 with stock cam, 1.7 rockers performer rpm intake, 650 dp carb and windsor jr heads will be more than enough. or, just put an intake and carb on a stock 351.
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06-14-2001, 05:49 PM | #17 |
Tubbed and Juiced
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,861
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GT40 crate motor+your regular bolt on's headers etc...12's
------------------ 3:55's,BBK Off-Road H-pipe,BBK jet-hot coated equal length shorty headers,BBK 70mm Throttle Body,BBK adjustable clutch quadrant,C & L 76mm Mass air meter,Cobra R's 17x9 w/ 245's,Trick Flow Intake,Flowmaster Force II exhaust system, Super Duty T5,Centerforce II Clutch,Heavy Duty Radiator,9mm Ford racing plug wires,Accel cap and Rotor www.geocities.com/i8urvpr/JM.html?987369348700 |
06-14-2001, 09:09 PM | #18 |
I need 110mph Trap Speed!
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: So, CA
Posts: 4,315
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Yeah, I have a really simple combo. No porting, all smog legal parts, and a fairly heavy body (Saleen). Traction is the key. I still have stock tranny rearend etc.
It goes mid 12's and runs around town fine. Im adding NOS to it now to go for the 11's. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS Heads, E-303, edelbrock intake,70MM TB, 73mm MAF, off road H, headers and 3chamber flows. 12.55@107mph 50-175 Nitrous Works WET Kit just added. |
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