331 stroker crank material?
 

Can anyone tell me what is the difference between the strength of the forged crank and the nodular crank or even the cast steel cranks? I am planning on building a 331 stroker for my '94 GT and have been seeing some nodular cranks offered in the kits. Thanks

Forged steel is the strongest and cast steel crank will do the job up to around 600 HP.

If you're going to keep the motor N/A, a cast crank should be plenty. I went with a 4340 forged steel crank on my 331 because I will be adding a supercharger and wanted peace of mind.

E

Hey thanks for the info. Originally I wanted to do a 347 but the more I read on it, I hear a lot of people say how its harder on the cylinder walls. I want an engine that is gonna be reliable.

No problem, glad I could help.

I too was looking into the 347, but with the better rod ratio of the 331 and less stress on the cylinder walls, I went with the 331. Also, a 347 requires even more notching of the cylinders than does a 331. The older 347 kits had oil control issues - the wrist pin was up into the oil control ring, however, they've seemed to solve this problem by using a different rod length and placement in the piston.

Both are good strokers, I just like the 331 a little better.

Good luck with your stroker build-up and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

E

347
 

Ive been punding on my 347 for quit some time. No problems here. Although, if its your only means of transportation, Id go 331 too. But Coast has a 347 kit designed to go 100,000 miles. Sounds like a daily driver to me. As for the crank, If you're using a stock 5.0 block, cast steel is the way to go. Scat claims their crank will hold 650 HP. And coast says with their girdle the block will do the same. why install a 1000 HP capable crank in a block that will rip apart at 700 hp?

I shift my 347 at 7400 rpm, in first to second, no problem.(456 gears) Only problem I have is I went through 2 W.C T-5s in 16 runs:rolleyes: The hanlon one lasted through only 6 runs.