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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: oklahoma city oklahoma USA
Posts: 9
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![]() See my question is that i want to stroke my 5.0 mill right now it is pretty stock and that is what i think is cost effecient but i dont know if it would be a reliable daliy driver or not the pistons and crank would be forged as would all the little goodies. Also what kind of cam and heads should i run if i do it thanks for the help
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: INDIO CA USA
Posts: 141
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![]() Streetable 2 me
![]() ------------------ 88 NOTCH DSS 331CI C-4 BRAKE 4:10'S 11.5-1 DART IRON HEADS X-CAM 1.7 ROCKERS 8PT. CAGE BEST 10.9@125MPH 100% STREETALBE TO ME!!! |
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#3 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() Well well well, a 331 huh? with forged internals huh? Well how does 375-400RWHP NA sound to you. I believe completely that it can be done with that stroker even though u might have to rev to 6700/6800RPM. The LS1s with 346 cu inch are doing 400-425RWHP so I don't see why U couldn't. The forged internals is a big plus here even with a stock block. Just get a Main support like the DSS and U'll be good.
Eg of Heads for this will Canfield heads, Avenger, TFS twisted wedge heads flowing approx. 285-305on the intake and 235-250 exhaust, AFR 185cc heads with similar flow figures to TFS heads and TFS R heads. Eg of intakes will be Victor Jnr, Ported Holley systemax, (no motorsport intakes), TFS R intake, a custom box upper from someone like Bennet Racing might do also. Then the most important part of the setup will be the CAM. Nothing too radical, DEFINATELY custom grind. Say in the neighborhood of 540-550int/560-570exh lifts, 114LSA very good cam timing setup etc. This will ensure u idle perfectly normal (close to stock as u can get) @ around 900-1100RPM and drivability being very good. Add the rest of the ingredients like 1 3/4 longtubes, full 3inch exhaust, 80 and above mass-air meter, 75 or bigger throttle-body (just port the 75, u don't want to go too big) etc and u most probably make that amount of RWHP. Again I have said it, the LS1 are doing it with similar comdo (as above) and are running those #s (actually more) with just heads and cams and some minor bolt ons. Good luck and email if u have questions. I am doing a similar project in the next 4 or so months. ------------------ TFS heads, Holley intake, AFM B-2 cam, 77mm MAF, 65mmTB, Bassani X-pipe with cats and Autologic custom chip. NOS dry kit, 80hp shot just installed. Black SN95 13.8 @105mph NA 13.2 @112mph 80hp NOS Wet track, running on NOS setting on NA runs (pig rich and 8 deg timing) |
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#4 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
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![]() 75mm tb sounds a little big to me, I'd stay under 70mm, probably a 65. There are many factors that play into it being streetable such as compression and cam. I wouldn't get too wild. My combo is pretty streetable, actually without the blower its not real real impressive, with all motor I would have gone with a more aggressive cam and more compression.
------------------ Rick My 89lx(updated 11/5/2000) My 97 Cobra |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: luling, la, usa
Posts: 83
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![]() so a poted cobra intake and fully ported gt40irns. with bigger valves will choke a motor like this? I was gonna order a new shortblock and thought i would just go for a 347 or 331 since a solid shortblock costs the same as a 302. what do you think?
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa
Posts: 1,407
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![]() Hey blkrain, whats up
![]() ![]() But i agree, the 75mm tb would be a little big. Anyway if you build something like that, let us know how it goes. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: Mac cold air fenderwell, accel supercoil,advncd ignition,3-core radiatr, FMS alum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs, 3chbr flows. Best time: 14.20(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph 97.80 Best 60' 2.1 next mods: subframes, 3.73's |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: oklahoma city oklahoma USA
Posts: 9
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![]() I want to thank you guys for the help i almost have the money to start on my new project i will keep you guys up to date and stuff thanks for the help
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Overland Park, KS, USA
Posts: 1,631
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![]() I think blkrain has the right idea. Especially with the cam. More cubic inches will make your car a little more tolerant of camming than your run of the mill 5.0L. If you're going for a street car, I'd suggest a slightly smaller intake, as high RPM pieces (esp. box type uppers) can and usually do kill the low rpm torque that makes street driving fun. Of course, with those the car would scream up top. Sounds like a great idea to me. I'm planning out my own swap soon too. Either a 331, a 347, or a 317 long rod kit. Haven't quite decided yet.
------------------ 1984 1/2 GT350 (#842 Hatchback w/ T-tops), 302HO, Comp cams Xtreme Energy cam, Carter 625cfm carb, Weiand Stealth intake, MSD distributor, MSD coil, FMS 9mm wires, 1 5/8" MAC unequal shorties, 2 1/2" MAC Prochamber H-pipe, Flowmaster 2 chambers, KYBs, 16"x8" 4 lug Cobra Rs, Falken 245/45ZR16s |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 244
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![]() A 347 is a GREAT daily driver. Either I or my Fiance drive ours every day. See my sig for details. Any questions let me know.
------------------ 347, 279/284 .493/.510, TFS TW, Stealth, 750, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, Art Carr C-4, Currie 9" w/3.55, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, 4 wheel power disc In a 66 coupe |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 1999
Location: St. Louis,Mo. USA
Posts: 37
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![]() 88PONY you should not miss led readers, You probaly do drive on the street but you are not running pump gas. Most guys when they say street they mean pump gas.
------------------ Kenne Bell supercharged stang 93LX (the perfect sleeper) Named Wheezer 11.901@117.40 on BFGs/w 1.71 60's |
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#11 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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![]() i've read on here that some guys say the 331 is a better kit than the 347, why is that? i would think the extra 16 cubes would be better, is it the quality of the kit or does the 347 crank just push the pistons too far?
------------------ 88 Notchback 5.0, 3.73's, pulleys, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframe connectors, 65mm TB, shift kit, March ram air kit, motorsport wires, MSD coil, upper and lower control arms, 155lph fuel pump, cheap 2800 stall, Crane Adj.FPR, best time- 13.99@99.75, not yet tested times after 1.7RR install ![]() ![]() |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: INDIO CA USA
Posts: 141
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![]() Brcuda....I don't drive it everyday,but im
letting him know that the are great engines,and streetable. By the way on the street I run pump gas with no problems!!! ![]() ------------------ 88 NOTCH DSS 331CI C-4 BRAKE 4:10'S 11.5-1 DART IRON HEADS X-CAM 1.7 ROCKERS 8PT. CAGE BEST 10.9@125MPH 100% STREETALBE TO ME!!! |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Sugar Land, Tx USA
Posts: 478
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![]() In the past some 347's had some problems with burning lots of oil and longevity(sp?) issues. I think most of the new ones from good companies have taken care of this but some people still feel that a 331 will last longer and is a "safer" stroke. This is just what i've heard, if i'm wrong don't flame me.
![]() ------------------ 92 AOD GT, K&N, ram air, pulleys, 2 ch. flowmasters, 4:10's, shift kit, 1 5/8 mac longtubes and offroad hpipe 14.249 @ 97.34 mph before the headers and hpipe |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Washington, MO
Posts: 327
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![]() The 331 has a better rod ratio than the 347. As far as oil consumption in the 347's, that has to to with the location of the oil ring in the piston used in a lot of the stroker kits. My personal opinion is that the 331 will last longer on the street.
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Hayes, Va, USA
Posts: 798
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![]() A 347 has a better R/S ratio than a stock 400 smallblock shivy or even a 455 ponticrap. Both engines have a rep for reliability and I know of several 400 sbcs that get the crap revved out of them. So I don't think there is much of a reliability problem with a 347. Given the nature of a two-bolt 5.0 block. I think if you keep it at 6000 revs or less it definitley won't be a problem and for a street car using a hydraulic roller cam, combined with the stock lifters along with steel retainers/keepers and stainless valves. You wont be going much past 6000 rpm anyway.
Take a look at the kits if your interested. From a longevity standpoint I'd go for the kits that have a full ring land below the oil scraper. Then combine that with a hypereutectic piston (if non supercharged or nitroused) and that should prove satisfactory. As for cam and heads it depends of what your looking for in power? 450 hp? Figure it'll take at least 219 cfm per runner to accomodate that power level and on a street engine exhaust needs to flow about 75% of the intake or about 165 cfm. As for intakes, the GT-40/Cobra flows in the neighborhood of 230 cfm. So that's right where you need it as far as flow. coupled to maybe a 70mm t-body. An easy 400hp would be (might make a bit more than that), That's the torque approach. You could trade some low and mid range torque for a bit more power upstairs by going to a set of AFR 185cc heads. A Street heat manifold, Edelbrock Performer RPM and the like would net some more hp too. Mainly due to more balanced runner flow and runner designed to work with a higher reving engine. 347 c.i.d AFR 165cc heads GT-40/Cobra intake 70mm T-body 9.50:1 comp ratio 1-3/4 headers Comp Cams XE282 hydraulic roller |
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