351 block race prep work
 

I'm considering a 351 swap as some of you may have seen in my previous post. I'm now pretty sure it's going to happen as I have been looking hard for a block.

I have a general idea of the machine work involved in building a race engine, but it's just a general idea at that. What should I have done to get this block ready to handle 500+hp, and why is it done? I'm referring to torque plate honing/boring, block squaring, line honing, etc. Please educate me on race prepping a block. I know about blueprinting an engine and the proccess involved to do it, but I am kinda curious how they balance an engine too.

I'm building a daily driver that will be a holy terror at the strip and will be pushing for low 11's to high 10's - all motor, so I want this block to be fully prepped when the time comes when that is no longer fast enough and I have to bring on the N02, or a blower, or both http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif

Thanks.

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Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph

Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

[This message has been edited by 2FastLX (edited 06-12-2001).]

balancing is done using the crank, flywheel and harmonic damper. Make sure they use a torque plate when they hone your block.(this simulates the clamping force of your cylinder heads...they actually distort the block. the other procedures you mention are standard with most reputable shops. I'd go with eagle h beam rods and je pistons. I had my crank crossdrilled and nitrided. 351 cranks have HUGE mains so they need all the oiling they can get. I also had the main journals cut for larger bearings. Running a good main girdle is a good idea too. I went with dss. Make sure you stud everything of course. I'm building mine for 600hp, so you may not want to get AS extreme, but overbuilding will never hurt you and it's alot cheaper than building a new one 'cause you compromised.

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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI Procharged!

Thanks for the insight DirtKing. I've been meaning to ask you... what is the nick in reference to? Are you a dirt track racer? If so, what kinda racing?

Also, is the cross-drilling done to the oil journals in the crank? And what is nitrided?

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Too much to list. Best ET on the car so far with stock 2.73 gears - 13.73@102mph

Indiana Stangers Association
Buy your parts here
ICQ# 42269241

Hey Kev I hear that Woody's in Thorntown is "THE" machine shop to go to around here for bada$$ Ford motors. I don't have the number right now but can get it for you, it would be a really good idea to call him and see what all he reccomends. BTW as far as your current problem goes everyone I have talked to thinks we need to re-check the valve pre-load... http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/cool.gif Talk to you later!

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92GT all the free stuff and a few bolt-ons, lowered with Ebiach's and Koni's, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, lower G-brace and jacking rails. BBK upper and lower control arms, polyurethane bushings all around and Ken Bell blower, ram-air, 80mm mass air, etc.

I work for a highway contractor in the grading end of things (not paving) thus the nick...crossdrilling is in the mains. it basically doubles the oiling to your bearings. Nitriding hardens the crank through a chemical process thus strengthening it (you have to use different bearings to compensate!)

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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI Procharged!