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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Mar 2002 
				Location: Oliver Springs, TN 
				
				
					Posts: 31
				 
				
				
				
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			 Anyone out there with a good knowledge of Mustang computers? My 90 GT is giving me a few minor codes but it never ever gives me an 11. From what I understand 11 (since my computer uses 2 digit codes) should mean that my computer passed it's self-test. I connected my scanner up to my uncles 91 Ford truck and it gave me a 111 (3 digits since it uses 3 digit codes)  first before it gave me any other codes. Does this mean my computer can't pass it's self-test because it is bad? If ayone knows I would appreaciate the help. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Thanks! 
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	1990 Mustang GT 25th Anniversary Edition, 5 speed, 5.0 bored .030" over, FRPP 65mm throttle body, FRPP 1.6 roller rockers, 70 mm MAF, Compcams XE264HR, FRPP Aluminum driveshaft, FRPP Heavy duty clutch, BBK offroad H-pipe, Dual-chamber Flows, Energy Suspension engine and tranny mounts  | 
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		#2 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 1999 
				Location: Houston,TX 
				
				
					Posts: 466
				 
				
				
				
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			 I could be wrong but it may not be your computer from my understanding the first 11 or 111 would be the soft code from that ign switch cycle so if any of your minor codes that would not pass immediatly witout the car running say tps out of range or some such. then you would not get the all clear code first. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week. George S. Patton, General (1885-1945)  | 
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		#3 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Mar 2002 
				Location: Oliver Springs, TN 
				
				
					Posts: 31
				 
				
				
				
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			 Ok, just to let you know, over the past few days I've put my old TPS, IAC valve, and TFI module back on. I still get the same symptoms. It will try to start but it imediately dies.  If I could find out everything that it tries to check that would be helpful. The codes I got out were all normal for the engine not running. Mostly engine not up to temperature, etc... Any ideas?  
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			  heheThanks! 
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	1990 Mustang GT 25th Anniversary Edition, 5 speed, 5.0 bored .030" over, FRPP 65mm throttle body, FRPP 1.6 roller rockers, 70 mm MAF, Compcams XE264HR, FRPP Aluminum driveshaft, FRPP Heavy duty clutch, BBK offroad H-pipe, Dual-chamber Flows, Energy Suspension engine and tranny mounts  | 
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		#4 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 1999 
				Location: Houston,TX 
				
				
					Posts: 466
				 
				
				
				
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			 Okay let start with the basics if it is not running have you check for spark all the way to the plugs amd fuel all the way to through the injector? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			The other thing might be a faulty ign. switch check the coil for voltage. Hook a meter up to the pos and neg coil wires have a buddy get in the car turn the key on and see if you get voltage . Then have him start the cat and see if you get voltage then and finally see if you still have voltage once he releases the key back to the run position. 
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	A good plan, violently executed now, is better than a perfect plan next week. George S. Patton, General (1885-1945)  | 
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		#5 | 
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			 Junior Member 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Mar 1999 
				Location: Ventura, California 
				
				
					Posts: 8,981
				 
				
				
				
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			 After making the changes you made, you must reset the ECM. After you do that, run it KOEO, and post the codes. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Take care, ~Chris 
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		#6 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Mar 2002 
				Location: Oliver Springs, TN 
				
				
					Posts: 31
				 
				
				
				
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			 Just an update on the situation. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I had a couple of different things go wrong at the same time. That is what made it so hard to figure out and why I was afraid it might be in the computer. 1. The magnet on the pickp in the distributor broke in half. That is why it would not run. It would try to run but when the broke piece got in the way it would cause a misfire. Anyways, after taking the distributor apart and putting a new pickup in she fired up and ran like a top. 2. When I pushed the clutch pedal in and started the engine it ran fine. When I let the clutch pedal out it immediately jumped up to a 2500 rpm idle. When I pushed the clutch back in it would idle down to normal. This turned out to be a bad IAC valve. Thanks for all your help. I'm learning as I go. 
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	1990 Mustang GT 25th Anniversary Edition, 5 speed, 5.0 bored .030" over, FRPP 65mm throttle body, FRPP 1.6 roller rockers, 70 mm MAF, Compcams XE264HR, FRPP Aluminum driveshaft, FRPP Heavy duty clutch, BBK offroad H-pipe, Dual-chamber Flows, Energy Suspension engine and tranny mounts  | 
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		#7 | 
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			 Get down..... 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Apr 2001 
				Location: Room 103 
				
				
					Posts: 2,095
				 
				
				
				
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			 when you are doing the self tests, are you making sure your A/C is off? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	Cobra brakes are on! Finally..... ------------------------------------------------  | 
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		#8 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Mar 2002 
				Location: Oliver Springs, TN 
				
				
					Posts: 31
				 
				
				
				
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			 Yeah I made sure the A/C and everything was turned off. Also made sure the doors were shut, etc... Now that I have the distributor and the IAC fixed I'm going to reset the computer and then test it again just for kicks. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	1990 Mustang GT 25th Anniversary Edition, 5 speed, 5.0 bored .030" over, FRPP 65mm throttle body, FRPP 1.6 roller rockers, 70 mm MAF, Compcams XE264HR, FRPP Aluminum driveshaft, FRPP Heavy duty clutch, BBK offroad H-pipe, Dual-chamber Flows, Energy Suspension engine and tranny mounts  | 
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