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01-08-2002, 06:47 AM | #1 |
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5 lug upgrade
question for you guys...anyone ever do a 5 lug upgrade on a 79-81? i don't think they are different from 82-93, but I am not sure. I am looking at this combo, let me know what you think. From a SN-95 mustang, spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, dust shields, front struts (due to changed ackerman on the newer cars, i understand that you have to change to the newer struts). then I am going to take the axles from the same donor car, and throw them in. the sn 95's had rear discs, so i can take all that stuff too while i am at it. anyone ever do it? let me know if you think this setup will work. (81 GT)
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01-08-2002, 01:26 PM | #2 |
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Several years back I upgraded my 79 to 5-lug, but I went with 87-93 brakes with Lincoln calipers at the time. If you get the spindles and the rest off the SN95, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work as long as the brake line fittings are the same. Are you getting the 2-piston PBR calipers from 99+?
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01-08-2002, 01:44 PM | #3 |
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i just thought of the concept, and figured out what parts to use. i didn't go as far as to figure out if i was going with any aftermarket parts.
or do you mean the 99's had those calipers from Ford?
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I'm a glutton for punishment. Last edited by mean81GT; 01-08-2002 at 03:05 PM.. |
01-08-2002, 02:03 PM | #4 |
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You'll need the front control arms from 94plus mustang...or you'll need different ball joints. I'd just get the arms with the rest of your hardware...
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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI 358windsor 11.2 to 1 compression, 5 lug baer claws all around..g force t5 and 3.55 gears. rwhp soon to come. Oh yeah...92 octane NO detonation. |
01-08-2002, 03:02 PM | #5 |
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i wasn't aware i needed the control arms. why? what changed with the arms?
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01-08-2002, 06:28 PM | #6 |
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The new control arms have bigger diameter ball joints....I think some places may have a spacer so you can use your old arms. I think the new arms are stronger though....
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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI 358windsor 11.2 to 1 compression, 5 lug baer claws all around..g force t5 and 3.55 gears. rwhp soon to come. Oh yeah...92 octane NO detonation. |
01-09-2002, 06:07 AM | #7 |
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MM&FF just did a great article on the very brake swap this month. You shouldn't need the control arms or ball joints, just the struts. The difference in the ball joints is that the older ones are a bit taller, but they said that shouldn't be a problem. Just be sure to use the cotter pins. I was planning on doing this brake swap myself. Be aware that this will push the rear wheel track out 1.5", and I think the front as well but I'm not sure how much. Will the 99' and newer calipers bolt up just the same? ~Chris~
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01-09-2002, 11:51 AM | #8 |
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The article did say that, but I wonder if there are any other differences in the arm design...strength or dimension wise?? It is nice to know I can reuse the 91 arms w/poly bushings I already have.
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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI 358windsor 11.2 to 1 compression, 5 lug baer claws all around..g force t5 and 3.55 gears. rwhp soon to come. Oh yeah...92 octane NO detonation. |
01-10-2002, 02:26 PM | #9 |
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The 2-piston PBR's are stock on 99+ GT's.
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Strike down the unroadworthy! 2000 GT Atl. Blue: '03 Cobra motor - 465rwhp/473rwtq, T-56 6-speed, full MM TA/PH & tubular K-member suspension, Saleen body, 17" Torq-Thrust II's, M/T ET Street radials, and lots more '94 Rio Red Cobra: All the bolt-ons, 3.73s |
01-10-2002, 09:51 PM | #10 |
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I was asking what differences there were between the early and late model front lower control arms.
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88LX notch, Speedpro EFI 358windsor 11.2 to 1 compression, 5 lug baer claws all around..g force t5 and 3.55 gears. rwhp soon to come. Oh yeah...92 octane NO detonation. |
01-11-2002, 06:30 AM | #11 |
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a friend of mine told me thyere is no difference between the geometry of the 95 control arm and the 79-93. the only difference is the length of the ball joint shank. but, the tapered area is the same size, and therfore it will work. the only thing is thaty the cotter pin will be a few threads higher than the castle nut, where in the original it was right up against it. should the bolt ever work it's way loose, the cotterpin will still hold it together.
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