8.8" Rear end to support 600 horses

[Fox Body]

Is there somewhere that I can get an 8.8" traction lock rear with 3.73s that can handle 5-600 rwhp or do I have to just get the bigger, heavier 9" rear end?

Your best bet would be to build the 8.8 if you want to have it handle that amount of HP.

I had mine built to handle alotta abuse :

31-spline axles
C-clip eliminators
T/A cover
Auburn Pro
3.73 's

see many people run high 10's to low 12's with this set-up.I will say the weak link that some people have in this set-up is the Auburn Pro as once it wears out,it's no good as it cannot be rebuilt,so other then that,it's a pretty solid combination.In your case,I might even consider getting axles with more splines yet.

If you can find a 9inch set-up I would get that if you dont feel like building the 8.8

[Fox Body]

Well, I know the 9 is stronger, but it is also heavier, I've felt the difference. I'm ALWAYS considering the weight I add to the car. But then again, it ain't so bad to have a little weight back there.

I plan on running at least high 10s. Is it worth the effort or money to build an 8.8" or just get a 9" and throw in some gears? In terms of money, how much would a reliable (new or used) 9" cost and how much would a reliable 8.8" cost to either build the one I've got or buy a strong new aftermarket one. Are the prices or efforts comparable or not??

[Eric4Nitrous]

You've spent this much money on the motor now it's time to consider rear-ends. Don't waste your money upgrading the 8.8. You'll spend more in the long run. So what if it adds a little weight..you can still take weight out of the car in other areas. Get a good 9" rear with Moser 31 spline axles and c-clip eliminators. get the 5/8 studs for the rearend. Throw in some 3.73's and go at it. You might want to look at coil over shocks..say about a 50/50 in the rear.

[andy669]

A 9 inch with C-Clip eliminators?? Thats a new one. They never had c-clips so therefore theres no need for an eliminator.

I have less than $1000 in my 8.8. 33 spline Strange axles, C-Clip elims, spool, gears, girdle, rebuild kit, and powdercoating. It would take me deep into the 9's if I chose to. If I had it to do over again I would have 9 inch ends welded on. The C-Clip eliminators required on the 8.8 always leak.

Andy

[Eric4Nitrous]

OMG sorry Fox. I had read about what mustangguy said about c-clips and it stuck in my head for some reason and i put it down. My bad. Sorry bout that guys.

[ultraflo]

I'd recommend staying with the 8.8 rear, as they are good enough to take you past 1000HP when setup properly... cheaper than it would be to build a 9" combo that doesn't take as much HP to drive as a stock type 9"... (i.e. fabbed 9" housing, gun drilled axles, all the trick stuff,etc.$$$)

If you plan on going upwards of 550-600hp and plan on torturing it on the dragstrip, then the only way to go is 33 spline axles, a spool, and c-clip eliminators or 9" housing ends as Andy pointed out... I had problems with leaky c-clips using the paper gaskets, but have lessend the problem by using a bead of RTV silicone and letting it 'skin' before bolting the axles up Works great so far!

...here's the setup I'll be using to get me deep into the 9's

click here for a current shot,
and...
click here for a shot from a few weeks ago.

-L8R!

[saltzstang]

stay 8.8...good combo last post just add rear end bearing support...good insurance for 8.8. leave the 9 in to the guys in 9/8sec or better zone or those guys with a 6000lb 4x4 truck 14in lifts and 44's.

[WADS56]

I would stay with the 8.8 also. It can handle 600rwhp with no problem with aftermarket axles, girdle, and weld the tubes to the housing. The differental will be the tricky part. If you want to launch on slicks IMO no differential will hold up but the detroit locker, or a spool. I completly blew up a aubern into 100 peices (no joke) pulling 1.46 60ft times and they are supposed to be strong.

[Fox Body]

Thanks alot guys, all of you. This is exactly the type of information I was looking for.

Concerning the diff units, any preferences b/t:

Richmond
Auburn Pro
Strange
SVO Traction Lok
Torqline?

Please clarify for me though, what are the "full spools" (or mini spools)? And what are their purposes. And also, what are C-clips and why are they eliminated. I've never really looked into rear end stuff, just only about getting gears put in for me. Thanks for helping me to learn.

[andy669]

I dont have any input on the different differentials, I have a spool. I dont know much about mini spools, I have seen them in dirt track circle cars, never in a street car.

As for C-clips, they are what retain the axles in a stock 8.8. NHRA rules mandate the use of an aftermarket axle retention device(c-clip eliminators) when going faster than 10.99, or while using a locked differential. The Ford 9" uses plates that are held in place with a pressed on ring. These plates bolt to the rearend housing and hold the axle in place. It is not recommended to use c-clip elims on the street, they are not meant to handle the side to side load street driving puts on them.

Hope this helps

Andy

[drudis]

Contact Lidio www.alternativeauto.com . He built Dan McClain's 8.8" that has taken its fair share of abuse

[89mustanglx]

On the other hand, I have had my car together pulling 1.48 60 ft.'s on stock axles and a mini spool.

Just waiting on the pieces to scatter

[Fox Body]

Originally posted by andy669
...It is not recommended to use c-clip elims on the street, they are not meant to handle the side to side load street driving puts on them.

Hope this helps

Andy

Hey that helps a lot. I understand. But my intention is to have a very streetable 10 sec weekend (or every other weekend) warrior, that I can trailer out to FFWs, so durability is a bit of an issue . Will this limit or prohibit streetability and are there any other practical alternatives?? I know there will always be trade offs, but I want to browse my options.

I'll check out alternative auto. Thanks.

[saltzstang]

The diffs you listed are great for mild applications but will wear out very soon under repeated lanches.....so if you're wanting to stay streetable and still have a dependable lock go with a detroit locker; its noisy but very tough and will still slip to turn(this is when its noisy...sounds like a ratchet clicking) If all else fails with your decision talk to some of the guys at the track and find out who the local hot rod rear end mechanic is (car proctologist)he will be able to explain in greater detail about the different diffs and the reliability of each. Good luck!

[saltzstang]

p.s.
another option may be an air locker...dont know anyone around here having one but they do have them for mustang 8.8, dont know how reliable they are either but may be somthing to ask the proctologist!