Need help quick!!! Rear main seal install....

TROYXTROY · 01-24-2001, 02:38 PM

Here's the deal. Just fully seated the rear main seal into the bore around the crankshaft. Now do tuck the "lip" of the seal that actually wraps around the crankshaft in towards the engine or do I leave the "lip" pointing towards the rear of the car? The reason I ask is that I thought I heard that you're supposed to push the inner lip of the seal, in towards the engine with a screwdriver around the crankshaft. Is this true? The seal looks good to me the way it is (inner "lip" pointing towards rear of car)
Please help, I want to wrap this job up today!
Thanks
-Troy

-I'm waiting for replies before I continue any further!

[This message has been edited by TROYXTROY (edited 01-24-2001).]

autoX · 01-25-2001, 02:50 PM

I also would like to know the answer to this as I am planning on doing the same thing this weekend! Help us out fellas...

NOS_Notch · 01-25-2001, 03:57 PM

I'm not sure if i follow you but when i did mine i just popped it in.
i put the old one over it and tapped it w/ a mallet.
Look good at the old one b4 you yank it out.

------------------
4.10's,long tubes & 75 shot...Goes 12.50's
Check it out at http://www.burnouts.webprovider.com

vkaro45 · 01-25-2001, 05:59 PM

There should be a spring inside the lip. That faces inside the engine. Hope this helps.

------------------
'89 GT work in progress
'66 289 coupe even more work

TROYXTROY · 01-25-2001, 08:12 PM

All set now! Thanks for the replies. I think I was paranoid about doing it wrong. I'd hate to have to pull everything apart again!
-Troy

------------------
1995 GT Convertible
K&N, Steeda G-Trac Stage 3 Suspension, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Kenny Brown Extreme Sub System, Ford Racing Underdrive Pulleys, Cobra R Rims, Steeda Adjustable Clutch Quadrant & Cable

macx · 01-26-2001, 08:58 PM

Oooh - the inner lip needs to point in toward the motor - that's how it keeps the oil in. To make this happen, lube both the crank and the inner lip with oil, then "roll" it a little while gently pushing to get that inner lip over the crank while pointing "in" Be VERY careful about touching that inner lip with anything hard - you don't want to tear it! I've on occasion used a feeler gauge (around .020) to get it started, then work the gauge around the crank VERY carefully so it doesn't cut or damage that inner lip keeping everything well lubed. Or probably better the edge of a small flat screwdriver angled in the direction you're working and GENTLY coaxing the inner lip over the crank working around from start to finish.

01-24-2001, 02:38 PM	#1
TROYXTROY Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: RI, USA Posts: 51	Need help quick!!! Rear main seal install.... Here's the deal. Just fully seated the rear main seal into the bore around the crankshaft. Now do tuck the "lip" of the seal that actually wraps around the crankshaft in towards the engine or do I leave the "lip" pointing towards the rear of the car? The reason I ask is that I thought I heard that you're supposed to push the inner lip of the seal, in towards the engine with a screwdriver around the crankshaft. Is this true? The seal looks good to me the way it is (inner "lip" pointing towards rear of car) Please help, I want to wrap this job up today! Thanks -Troy -I'm waiting for replies before I continue any further! [This message has been edited by TROYXTROY (edited 01-24-2001).]

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01-25-2001, 02:50 PM	#2
autoX Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 113	I also would like to know the answer to this as I am planning on doing the same thing this weekend! Help us out fellas...

01-25-2001, 03:57 PM	#3
NOS_Notch Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Fresno,CA. USA Posts: 384	I'm not sure if i follow you but when i did mine i just popped it in. i put the old one over it and tapped it w/ a mallet. Look good at the old one b4 you yank it out. ------------------ 4.10's,long tubes & 75 shot...Goes 12.50's Check it out at http://www.burnouts.webprovider.com

01-25-2001, 05:59 PM	#4
vkaro45 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Stafford, VA Posts: 54	There should be a spring inside the lip. That faces inside the engine. Hope this helps. ------------------ '89 GT work in progress '66 289 coupe even more work

01-25-2001, 08:12 PM	#5
TROYXTROY Registered Member Join Date: Jul 1999 Location: RI, USA Posts: 51	All set now! Thanks for the replies. I think I was paranoid about doing it wrong. I'd hate to have to pull everything apart again! -Troy ------------------ 1995 GT Convertible K&N, Steeda G-Trac Stage 3 Suspension, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Kenny Brown Extreme Sub System, Ford Racing Underdrive Pulleys, Cobra R Rims, Steeda Adjustable Clutch Quadrant & Cable

01-26-2001, 08:58 PM	#6
macx Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: Gordonville MO USA Posts: 448	Oooh - the inner lip needs to point in toward the motor - that's how it keeps the oil in. To make this happen, lube both the crank and the inner lip with oil, then "roll" it a little while gently pushing to get that inner lip over the crank while pointing "in" Be VERY careful about touching that inner lip with anything hard - you don't want to tear it! I've on occasion used a feeler gauge (around .020) to get it started, then work the gauge around the crank VERY carefully so it doesn't cut or damage that inner lip keeping everything well lubed. Or probably better the edge of a small flat screwdriver angled in the direction you're working and GENTLY coaxing the inner lip over the crank working around from start to finish.