95' GT 5.0 shutting down.

[Rod Miles]

Hey Guys,
What a great board you guys have here! Maybe someone can help me. I have a 95' mustang GT 5.0 with the T-5, 5 speed. Mods that have been done is under-drive pulleys, fresh air tube W/K&N filter, 373 gears, flowmaster mufflers and a pro 5.0 shifter.

Some times while driving the car it will shut down, the tach drops off to "0" rpm's just as if the key was turned off. Some times it will restart right away some times it takes a couple of hours.
It has gone weeks with no problems and then some days it may shut down 5 times within an hour......

You can hear the fuel pump kick on and then off when it has built the pressure. I have noticed when it is ready to start you can turn the key to the position just before it kicks in the starter and the tach will jump up to around the 750 rpm mark. If it's not ready to start the tach will not move or goes down toward the "0" rpm mark.

So far I have replaced: the ignition module, coil, alternator, battery, plugs, plug wires, dist. cap.

As stated it has no set pattern to these shut downs so this is kicking my butt..........

Could this be the computer, key switch, O2 sensors, distributor??????? Help!!!

Thank you!!
Rod Miles

[Treachery]

Is your engine grounded properly? If in doubt, do a search on this board for "ground engine"... Plenty of info here. Good Luck.

[mustangII460]

Does sound like a ignition module. What brand mod and did you use the thin grease.

Also sounds like a ignition switch. Run you car and shake the key cylinder around abit. Ive seen a few do it.

[Rod Miles]

Hey Guys,
Thank you for your replies. The main ground cable was good and all other grounds wires seem to be connected and intact also. I did drive it and shake the key around and bang on the steering column to see if I could get it to shut down that way: nothing happened.

I got it hooked up to a diagnostic computer and it pulled a couple of codes. P176-EGO NOT SWITCHING. And P211-PROFILE ING PICK-UP ERRATIC.

Yesterday I changed the distributor module which was not too bad. Only problem I had was pulling that darn gear off and getting back on. I drove it pretty hard for a while and it seemed to be ok. Most of the time when I drive it that way it will studder or cut out here and there but not totally die out.

Again I thank you for your help and I will let you know how this goes in the next few days.

Thank you!
Rod Miles

[dave86gt]

First thing you should do is run a EEC system self test to see if any codes are present in either key on engine off, key on engine running or memory codes. If there are no codes I would proceed as if the computer is being told the key is being turned off. That can happend by either a bad ignition cylinder (play that is allowing the rod to move between the cylinder and the electrical portion of the switch) bad switch located on the bottom of the steering column, bad EEC relay (probably under your seat), or wiring into the processor. There are two ways the processor gets battery voltage, one at all times key on or off and ignition key in run mode. If your car is EEC IV most likely pin 1 is hot at all times and 37 and 57 is hot in run. These are the pins you need to carefully check when the engine will not run. Next check the processor grounds, they are typically 20 40 and 60. If the computer has proper power and ground, next is whether the processor is working properly. The processor basically controls spark and fuel. Fuel pressure you should be able to watch and you will really need a scope to see if you are getting spark. But before you do all this, have someone run self test

[93svt]

With the stuttering you mentioned, it sounds to me like a fuel pump, or maybe regulator, but more likely the pump. Even if the pump runs, when it gets weak, the pressure is low enough that when it is warm, it will boil in the rail, and can't stay running. The easiest place to start though is with a new filter. Hope this helps.

[lugthug713]

Nope they are all good suggestions but I had the same problem. I bet $100 that it is the pick up sensor in the distributor. But that pick up is a real pain in the ass to change, it is easier to change the whole distributor. My 95 5.0 did the same thing and I waisted money on coil rotor cap plugs wires voltage regulator fuel filter but I am 99% sure that it is the pick up sensor!!!

[redsn95vert]

This may be a dumb question, but did you check your fuel pump relay. If you're hearing the pump cut on and off and it's stalling and starting replace the relay. If you can't pinpoint the exact problem, start with the small stuff, it will be alot cheaper, and besides the car is 12 years old and most of the stuff could be replaced anyway.
Good luck....

[Rod Miles]

Guys,
It's been over a week and a half, still no sign of any problems....

The pick-up in the distrobutor seems to have been what it was! No more stalling, no more studdering..nothing! I feel now I can move on to making tha car look as good as it's running. Paint and body here I come.......

Thanks again so much!

Rod Miles

ROD'Z Repair

www.vintagebmx.com

[lugthug713]

hey did u take the distributor apart? Man I tryed but it was such a pin in the BUTT that I just got a new distributor

[lugthug713]

you bmx? you ever go to www.danscomp.com I use to all the time but I am thinking about getting a DK bike when I get back from the middle east!

[Rod Miles]

Lug,
It was kind of tough but if you heat the gear a little with a propane touch you can tap it off. And once you are ready to reassemble do the same it will tap back into place. Once it cools down it's nice and tight.

On the Dan's BMX, yes, I buy from them from time to time. I mostly repair and collect vintage BMX bikes and parts these days. I have a few new bikes but not much time to ride these days.

Rod Miles
ROD'Z Repair
www.vintagebmx.com