95 Mustang GT - Starting Problems

[Aaeros]

This is an ongoing problem I just can't seem to get resolved.

One day, car will run great.

Next day, I crank the engine over but it wont start (Not getting a spark)

I've replaced the ICM (it tested bad), coil, and distributor (easiest way to replace the stator)

I'm not sure what's left that could possibly be the problem.

[~The Jester~]

Change the ignition module yet?

[Gearhead999]

Agree with Jester. If you've already changed the module, try another. Then go to the Harness. Check the plugs and connections. Wiggle test.

[Aaeros]

Ignition Control Module tested bad again for the low range.

Got it replaced (life time warranty)

I'm going to put that in today.

[Aaeros]

Changed it out. Started up.. 4 seconds later, it died.. Wont start again.

Anyone know where I can get the steps to get code from the key ignition?

[Gearhead999]

Whoa !!! there...before you go any further. You said, "Ignition Control Module tested bad again for the low range". What does this mean?? Has it happened before??

Something isn't right here. Where did these modules come from?? If it keeps burning up modules...you have to look at what is causing it. BUT.....if they are "junk" modules...well that's a different story.

Next, what do you mean "code from key ignition"??

Need more info here.......

[Aaeros]

Back when my problem first started, I took the Ignition Control Module (ICM) to O'riley Auto Parts and had them test it. There are 3 checks that the machine runs. The first one, Low Range, tested bad and the other two were ok.

I bought the borg/warner (lifetime warranty) ICM. I have no clue what might be zapping it, if indeed this latest one I installed is bad.

As far codes from the key ignition, there are some steps to get engine failure codes. I dont have the exact steps, and that's what I was asking here. Apparently you jumper something, turn the ignition on and off 3 times or so, then the check engine light will blink giving the 2 digit failure code. (I dont have an ODB reader)

[Lethal5Oh]

Thats kind of odd that the TFI mod would be getting burned up like that. Id be looking for a short to power or something like that. Theres three ways to get the codes. 1 hook up a analog volt meter to the single wire on the Data link connector on the passenger side strut tower (Back side) 2 buy the cheepo but accurate code reader from autozone for 20 or 30 buck. 3 find some one with a snap on or mac scanner. If you do a search of this site you should be able to find directions on hooking up the analog meter, or buy a hanze repair manual. Good luck. p.s. if you would like email me with your address and ill mail you one of the stock, but working, tfi modules from my 95. Vert5oh@aol.com

[Aaeros]

Well, I am starting a new job soon that isn't just 5 mins from the house. So I decided have my mustang towed to Domestic Auto Experts which is only a few miles from here.

After their first diagnosis, they told me I wasn't getting enough or any fuel pressure. Hmm. Ok.. They replaced fuel pump, filter, some relay thing.

Get a call back. Well, we are seeing a weak spark. Which is what I originally thought the problem was. Not weak, but none. They say my Ignition Controll Module is bad (ICM). Ok, I already told them I've replaced it twice, and the one I have has a lifetime warrenty. Well, they need to replace it with the Motorcraft one to continue diagnosis. ($150 vs $60 I spent). Guess what, the new one they put in got blown. So they do the warranty exchange on the one I bought and they were able to continue with the work.

Now they say that the ground wire for the Multi Function Control Module (MFCM) is shorting out and has a bad ground. They can only get the part from FORD ($182). Ok. Atleast it sounds like they have found the root cause.

Well, I drive it about 50 miles and it dies on me for a few seconds driving through an intersection. So I take it back. 2 days and they can't locate the problem. I picked the car up yesterday morning. Drove to work. Drove home at lunch. Then to Post office, went in so car was turned off, then back to work. Car seems to be running really good. Better than when I picked it up the first time. After work I went to store and when I get back in the car, it wont start again. Same symptoms as before. It will crank, but no fire. I suspect I dont have a spark.

The only labor they charged me was for the fuel pump replacement. Which was about $250 or so in labor. Since then, they have been replacing parts without any labor costs. I think the service guy knows he screwed up when they thought the fuel pump was the problem, and it could very well have been the MFCM. But the fact is, $750 later, my car had to be towed and still has the same damn problem.

[Aaeros]

First, I found this here which gives a step by step method for getting the codes

http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...-iv_codes.html

I got a call this morning and they said they have found a short in the resister near the distributor. It's the SPOUT ?

Only thing I was aware of that was near the distributor was a capacitor, and it was to filter noise for power running to the radio.

So, off I'm searching to see if these guys are full of it or not.

[Aaeros]

Ok.. Found this..

SPOUT (SPark OUTput) connector

Doesn't sound like a resister to me.

[SAB2007]

Did you ever find the cause of your starting problem? I have a 95 GT and about a month ago began to experience a similar situation. I replaced the fuel pump and two days later the car would'nt start. Let it sit over night and it started up first thing in the morning. Now it stalls during rapid acceleration, as well.

Any information would be appreciated.