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09-05-2002, 12:48 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 158
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Heater Core bypass
Hey,
I removed my heater core after it went out and am bypassing it using HELP! bypass caps. I'd rather just do a U-turn with a piece of hose but the inlet/outlet are different diameters. Anyone out there do something similar? What is the sensor that plugs into one of the metal coolant pipes that's connected to the uppoer intake manifold? Does it take incorrect measurements when bypass CAPS are used since flow is eliminated? Can those two pipes (all one piece) be removed and the hole in the manifold be plugged? Will it set off a check engine light or will something else get screwed up if that sensor is disconnected? Thanks. 91 LX 5.0 FHP coupe |
09-05-2002, 01:01 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 1999
Location: Georgia
Posts: 3,866
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Thats the coolant temp. sensor for the computer. Leave it. There are several ways to get around your problem, but I would recomend just to replace the heater core. Its the best fix
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09-05-2002, 01:04 PM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Columbia Co, PA
Posts: 303
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If I recall, the sensor on the passenger's side of the intake is where the computer gets its temperature input from and the one on the driver's side is the sender for the temp gauge in the dash. If you block flow to the computer input, it's probably not going to be very happy about it. The ECM uses this input to determine which fuel map to use. With the flow blocked off, it'll always think that the car is still warming up. The sensor may not get hot enough for the computer to recognize that the engine is up to normal operating temperature. I plan on bypassing mine in the near future also. Let us know if you come up with any good ideas. I was thinking about relocating the sensor down into the coolant path. I'm not sure if that's possible. I haven't really spent any time looking at it since I decided to do it.
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09-05-2002, 04:01 PM | #4 |
I'd rather be basketweaving
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,551
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just use a U shaped piece of tubing and tighten down the hose clamps
I was working on something on my car a couple years back and accidentally BROKE one of the tubes off of the heater core going into the firewall. It was summer so I just pulled that tube out (about a 90deg bend in it) and used it to bypass the heater core. It worked great until november and I needed to use my defrost
__________________
NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft |
09-05-2002, 04:03 PM | #5 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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You can buy male-male connectors with different sizes on either end. That's what I did until I decided to replace the core.
--nathan
__________________
'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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