heater core question

82 GT · 10-16-2002, 04:04 PM

What makes a heater core steam up the windows when it starts to go bad or dump anti-freeze on the floor when it's really bad?
Would a bottle of STOP LEAK be a temporary fix?
It starting to be cold in the mornings and my g/f really needs a way to defrost her windshield in the Taurus. It's no worth the hundreds of dollars to get it fixed since we are getting rid of it in around March or April.
It wasn't leaking coolant before I bypassed the core but just fogging up the window.
I was just wondering if I could "doctor it up" until then?
How much is a heater core (out of curiousity)?

Superpromustang · 10-16-2002, 05:33 PM

If it's not leaking too bad, then you can probably fix it with some stop leak, and the heater cores are inexpensive, it's the labor involved in putting it in, when I had mine replaced, it cost me $300, because they have to take the dash clear out of the car. And to answer your question about why it does it, is because the coolant is under pressure if there's any leaks at all it will find it and come oozing out, and since your heater core is right under the dash and is in junction with your defroster vents, it comes up on the windshield as steam and then condenses back to the liquid creating the nasty film on your windshield, hope this helps,

Kenny

lx5091 · 10-16-2002, 08:59 PM

you could always bypass the heater core under the hood by rerouting the hoses.

82 GT · 10-16-2002, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by lx5091
you could always bypass the heater core under the hood by rerouting the hoses.

I did that already but it's to the point now where my g/f is going to need defrost in the mornings.

DZEE'S LX · 10-16-2002, 10:31 PM

Sounds like your in trouble either way.
Bypassed hoses = fogged window
Keep old core = fogged window

I would try the stop leak. I had the same problem with my stang and I had to put more stop leak in periodically to get me through the winter. The fogged windows should have killed me at least a couple times.....

As stated the core is a real pain to replace. When I did get it done I flushed the system twice with super flush in an attempt to get any traces of the stop leak out.

BTW, I didn't think my core was leaking much coolant but found that the front edge of the carpet under the dash was completely waterlogged.

drtbiker · 10-16-2002, 10:42 PM

Its silly that a 50.00 dollar part is such a pain in the *** to install and so expensive to be put in by someone else

joe4speed · 10-17-2002, 12:16 AM

I think stop leak will just be a temp fix on the problem. eventually it's just gonna corrode worse and become a bigger leak, at the most inopportune time. As always...

I didn't know Tauruses were a PITA to fix like the stangs. That's a bummer.... It's not really that hard of a job, just takes some time and alot of patience to do. Good luck, I hope you fix it!

I LOVE having heat in mine.. lived for three years without it, before I said **** it, and fixed it.

LX XLR8R · 10-17-2002, 02:32 PM

35$ from AZ..it might not be that hard on a 82..let us know

82 GT · 10-17-2002, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LX XLR8R
35$ from AZ..it might not be that hard on a 82..let us know

It's not for my '82. It's for my g/f Taurus. The 82 is going to be down for quite some time until the engine is rebuilt.

Mach 1 · 10-17-2002, 05:38 PM

Change it yourself. It nice to have heat, and the R2 process builds character. Just take your time and remove the dashboard and all the other crap in the way.

I just did mine on a Izusu Rodeo and it took me 2 days to get it apart, one week trying to get the right core (mine cost $170.00) and one day to get it back together, then I had to get the a/c recharged and replace a broke a/c line o ring, and replace the heater hoses.

all in all, a pain in the ***, but to save $400.00 in labor costs, well worth it.

10-16-2002, 04:04 PM	#1
82 GT Import Slayer Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 2,241	heater core question What makes a heater core steam up the windows when it starts to go bad or dump anti-freeze on the floor when it's really bad? Would a bottle of STOP LEAK be a temporary fix? It starting to be cold in the mornings and my g/f really needs a way to defrost her windshield in the Taurus. It's no worth the hundreds of dollars to get it fixed since we are getting rid of it in around March or April. It wasn't leaking coolant before I bypassed the core but just fogging up the window. I was just wondering if I could "doctor it up" until then? How much is a heater core (out of curiousity)? __________________ '82 GT 351W (.060)Comp Cams 274* Extreme Energy cam, ported & polished heads w/ 1.94/1.60 valves 10.3:1 flat top pistons,stealth intake, Mallory dizzy,Holley 750dp carb, BBK shorties,Flowmaster exhaust,C-4 with 3700 stall converter, B&M pro shifter,8.8 rear, 4:10's, subframes, electric fan, powermaster alternator, 4 core radiator.

10-16-2002, 08:59 PM	#3
lx5091 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Fall River, MA Posts: 467	you could always bypass the heater core under the hood by rerouting the hoses. __________________ '02 Explorer XLT 4.0L --Nice Vehicle '97 Saturn SL1--Soon to be ditched for a Ford!

10-16-2002, 10:31 PM	#5
DZEE'S LX Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 117	Sounds like your in trouble either way. Bypassed hoses = fogged window Keep old core = fogged window I would try the stop leak. I had the same problem with my stang and I had to put more stop leak in periodically to get me through the winter. The fogged windows should have killed me at least a couple times..... As stated the core is a real pain to replace. When I did get it done I flushed the system twice with super flush in an attempt to get any traces of the stop leak out. BTW, I didn't think my core was leaking much coolant but found that the front edge of the carpet under the dash was completely waterlogged. __________________ Spec Service (UHP), BFG G-Force KDW's, Turbo Coupe 3.55 rear w/disks, 73mm calipers, Stg 1 Twisted Wedges, TFS Street Intake, 70mm TB, E cam, Crane 1.7's, Aeromotive FPR, BBK 1 5/8 shorties, elec fan, FMS Al Radiator, Moroso Wires, Kenne Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, 190 lph Walbro, FMS Al Dshaft, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C spngs, strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, Prothane bushings, MM Lwr Conrol Arms, KB welded subs, Cervini Mach 1 hood/valence/side skirts/wing/airdam.

10-16-2002, 10:42 PM	#6
drtbiker Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mt. Prospect,IL Posts: 474	Its silly that a 50.00 dollar part is such a pain in the *** to install and so expensive to be put in by someone else __________________ 87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113

10-17-2002, 12:16 AM	#7
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	I think stop leak will just be a temp fix on the problem. eventually it's just gonna corrode worse and become a bigger leak, at the most inopportune time. As always... I didn't know Tauruses were a PITA to fix like the stangs. That's a bummer.... It's not really that hard of a job, just takes some time and alot of patience to do. Good luck, I hope you fix it! I LOVE having heat in mine.. lived for three years without it, before I said ** it, and fixed it. __________________ Joe!** 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com

10-16-2002, 05:33 PM	#2
Superpromustang Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Carthage, MO Posts: 59	If it's not leaking too bad, then you can probably fix it with some stop leak, and the heater cores are inexpensive, it's the labor involved in putting it in, when I had mine replaced, it cost me $300, because they have to take the dash clear out of the car. And to answer your question about why it does it, is because the coolant is under pressure if there's any leaks at all it will find it and come oozing out, and since your heater core is right under the dash and is in junction with your defroster vents, it comes up on the windshield as steam and then condenses back to the liquid creating the nasty film on your windshield, hope this helps, Kenny

10-17-2002, 02:32 PM	#8
LX XLR8R Dirk Diggler Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: SLOATSBURG, NY Posts: 1,931	35$ from AZ..it might not be that hard on a 82..let us know __________________ 95 undecided cubes, AFR 185s,undecided cam, undecided intake, and a 150 hit 89 "turbonotch" 2.3T You might want to hold on..i saw this on a cartoon once

10-17-2002, 05:38 PM	#10
Mach 1 Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Location: Georgia Posts: 3,866	Change it yourself. It nice to have heat, and the R2 process builds character. Just take your time and remove the dashboard and all the other crap in the way. I just did mine on a Izusu Rodeo and it took me 2 days to get it apart, one week trying to get the right core (mine cost $170.00) and one day to get it back together, then I had to get the a/c recharged and replace a broke a/c line o ring, and replace the heater hoses. all in all, a pain in the ***, but to save $400.00 in labor costs, well worth it. __________________ 2002 GT 1993 GT (SOLD) '93 Mustang GT RHC member #142

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Heater Core leaking already!	429mustang	Windsor Power	2	07-30-2004 09:05 AM
should i tackle a 96 T-bird heater core?	fiveohpatrol	Windsor Power	0	04-14-2002 06:50 PM
Who can help? Question about EGR spacer and heater...	Bad89stang	Windsor Power	8	11-29-2001 12:27 PM
Smoke/steam from vents. Heater core??	RMARIANI	Windsor Power	9	08-02-2001 01:23 PM
Heater Core Removal	65mustang-man	Classic Mustangs	2	09-17-2000 01:32 AM