Keep the rear swaybar, i took my quad shocks off, it feels unstable, but launches good in a straight line, on a bumpy road it feels like it wanders, or that could be the m/t's, so thats why im getting some lca's in a couple weeks, most lca's i see, DO have provisions for the rear swaybar, it seems dangerous without one, my front one was pulled a long time ago also.
on another note, i seen a foxbody cut a 1.6 60' without the rear sway:confused:

88workcar, do you have the link for those power heads? later..

nevermind, checked out power heads, impressive flow #s down low, but 695$ with core exchange......i will just save up another 100$ and get some brand new roush heads, and not deal with the core exchange.

Coupe, when you do decide to get nitrous make sure you get a bottle warmer and gauge, that dude before said that he got a tenth from a warmer that is 100% possible. If he didn't have optimal bottle pressure when he sprayed it then it will run like crap. The power comes on in "waves" and it can fall off up top.
I'm running a wet kit so it's even more important for atamozation.
I'm not wanting to start like a what is better nitrous war kinda thing but I went with a wet kit on mine vs the Zex I'm pretty sure it's dry. I just liked the numbers my friends were posting with wet kits better, that and they seem to "hit harder."
With a wet kit though you have to be cautious, intake explosions can happen from gas pudding if you don't have enough pressure. I guess they both have there advantages and disadvantages. I also know people with dry setups complaining because there injectors are running at 100% duty cycle with so much pressure that it causes premature failure. I don't know anything about that though just what I've heard.
I'm running a Nitrous Works kit, I got it for one reason because I liked the plate design versus a nozzle in the other kits. Now looking back if I had it to do all over again I'd deffinatly go with a TNT Kit, those things are posting some bad numbers.

I think the reason those cars didnt run extremely good times from the factory were they are on bias ply tires. put modern tires on those cars and they fly. :)

Awesome times 88workcar and GT_90

That's another good point, that and if you were to actually run them today you'd have to run them with some kind of octain booster. The cars of the day were running when you could get like 100 plus octain out of the pump and that's what the compression ratio's were designed for.

I'm aware of that, i've raced against every one of those cars i mentioned shy of maybe the ZL-1 camaro ... and i'm not talking about restored cars, i'm talking about in the late 60's when they came out.
i've driven a Boss 429 mustang that held the national record for MPH in its class, i've driven a 427 Falcon that had 1100 x 16 Goodyear wrinkle walls on it and launched it so hard i broke the seat off.
I'll say it again, i'm not questioning your honesty, and i'm not questioning your time slips. Help me out here ... what does the car weigh and what kind of horsepower are you making ??

HotRoddin I personaly witnessed a friend of mine run a 12.8 with a 88 Notch. 4.30 gears ,slicks, weight reduction and an H-pipe he even had the stock headers.

Some cars are just freaks,

Horsepower on motor I don't know, and weight I don't know. The full weight GT weighs.
GT Hatchback Manual 3200 57.9/42.1
That is weight then weight distribution I forget where I got those numbers but somewhere off the web but those numbers are with no gas in the car.
Now my smog pump is gone and front sway bar and that's it so I'm gonna be brave and say if that's right then my car weighs 3150. Now gas I think is close to the density of water so lets say 8.6 pounds per gallon I normally run with about 10 gallons it so that's lets say 80 pounds there's 3230, then I weigh around 200 so there's 3430 race weight.
Now if you figure that up on a tech calculator then it's gonna say the car has to have like 273 horse to run that time. Stock mustang for my year is 225 horse, then lets say I add exhaust, headers. Lots of people claim more but I'm gonna say MAYBE 15 horse for adding headers, Prochamber, and Flowmasters. So that puts it up to 240 horse.
That is assuming that the motor has the factory horsepower it's supposed to be making which it really should, motor has 60K miles on it and has had a good life. All the ignition is up to par and I've got an electric fan on it taking some of the parasitic load off the engine. Also when we make a pass the motor is cool, intake iced, and it's like it's just been cranked up, an EFI car's best friend, then there's another trick with the timing which carburated mustang guys probably know all about.
Now I don't know how well one of those calculators can do using like the launch method we've been talking about because you're coming off the line with the motor way into the power range.
The numbers look like they work out pretty well to me.
The real fun thing is when you put numbers into that thing for a nitrous pass though, for example I put my 12.44@112.5 into it and:
Peak Horsepower: 349
Average Horsepower: 377
That just blows it's mind.
Sorry man I just guess I take it personally it seems like everytime somebody posts a stock number that is quick somebody always says it's not possible, nothing against you at all. There are a lot of stock cars that can run that time especially the speed density cars they're normally around .2 quicker. Some cars are just quicker than others, factory freaks , so just because one car can't do it doesn't mean no stock mustang can't.