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After all these mods I run 14.5?!
This is pissing me off. My car ran a 15.2@90 stock. It got all the way down to 14.3@100 once. I have never seen it again. I finally got some heads and I am running the same lousy times. Now all things are considered. My traction has been consistently the same. If ANYTHING its suffered maybe a tenth or two AT MOST. It really isnt a problem. And weather? Hah! All my times were placed under the same temps. humidity, and ive always been at the same altitude. I've read on here with guys with convertibles running 13s and I cannot escape the mid 14s. As far as my shifting launching is concerned, its been changed constantly just to find a performance increase. I've launched higher and lower...Ive shifted higher and lower...nothing. Ive dumped so much damn money into this car and its not giving anything back. I even had the motor rebuilt recently! I run my car on the street and I own other cars that are not mustangs that are running 13s on street tires, so it IS possible to run this time on radials. I am really out of options. I figured it has to be from a bad combination or something is missing or christ i dont know. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/confused.gif Look at my sig. and let me know. Under stangnet i reviewed the cobra intake manifold set and users have stated that having this intake must be pretty much used with a 70mm T/B. Is this true? And knowing my luck, even if it does make some sort of improvement, i doubt ill see consistent 13 times with just an extra 5mm of air. If anyone is interested in how my times had gotten better throughout the mods I've made, look at my car in user's rides. Ive lost my faith. Help me find my way. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/frown.gif
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
Look my man, With those mods you may need to get some tires. The power band has move around a bit. What do you leave at?
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What was your MPH, your 60', shift points altitude etc.
Is your motor running well? Whats your timing, fuel pressure etc. Its a tuning issue. Don't give up, we can help you through it. Skyler ------------------ -1989 Saleen Mustang #406- TFS TW Heads, E-303, Edelbrock intake, 70mm TB, 73mm MAF, 24lb injectors, 1 5/8 shorties, Off Road H, 3 Chamber flows, Jaz Race seats, Back seat removed, sub-frames, Roll Cage, and a 80 shot of N20. 12.54@107.4 Motor 332RWHP, 350rwtq |
I would try dropping back to the 19lb injectors for a better spray pattern for one thing. You've hurt your low end with equal length shorties, but I think you can make it up. Are you running the stock tach? If you are, try shifting as high as 5800rpms. Powershift that thing too.
What was your trap speed on your 14.5 run? Did you pick up any speed? Screw the morons at Stangnet. The Cobra was designed to work with a 65mm T/B, not a 70mm unit. Your combo sounds pretty decent, I'd expect you to be making in the area of 300hp or better. With that, you should be able to pull off some 13's@102 maybe? Give us the full run down on your settings. |
What cam are you running? I was also wondering why the 3.55's? Youre mile-an houring good, what are your 60's? They cant be too good with those numbers. I'm guessing 2.2's. It took me forever to get my car in to the 13's too. look at my sig.
andy ------------------ 3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff |
ALright I ran it on a G-tech last night, but I do have a slip to go with it.
60' 2.31 1/8 9.4 MPH 76.73 1/4 14.501 MPH 96.86 The G-tech has always been accurate to me because I have used it at the track. The 1/4 times have always been the same, but of course, the MPH was off. My MPH last night was 103. The only mods I have made from this slip time are the HEADS and rebuild og engine(800 miles ago). Oh and a strut tower(getting subframes welded on wednesday). 0-60 5.9(best ever was 5.8) Cam=stock. I havent changed it due to a possible chance of getting a lot of money for a charger. I launch at 3000 (slip the clutch at a higher RPM and leaves at this RPM) I know this is not the best way, but I have tried other methods and they are a pain in the *** . Maybe one weak point on my part? fuel pressure=38 shift points=4900-5200 Before heads car was dynoed and made most HP at 4750 RPMs and most TQ at 3500 RPMs. I do not know if these heads would change the highest HP RPM, so youre gonna have to tell me here. Altitude=sea level (or whatever Moroso is) Timing is set at 18<~~which is what the COMPUTER set itself to! When I manually set it to 14* it pinged and died at high RPMS. And when it got hot, HOLY SH.IT..! Dropped timing, worked but a mechanic hooked up that expensive computer code finder/clearer and changed the timing to 18 all by itself. I know, I dont get it either.. I have the 3.55s because I do highway driving. And I figured that would be fine due to previous mustang owners running mid 13s with these and STOCK cams. Now yes they arent converts. but i have weighed my car with other stangs and it weighs 3650 with me. Only 200 lbs more. 2 tenths off? What angers me more than anything was that I ran a 14.3(my best) with stock heads, stock mass air, 19lb inj. and 3.08s. Now I may not be doing something right myself, but you have to believe all the trials I have given this thing. Statistically, I should of *accidentlly* gotten a decent time by now, if not that then a good MPH. What I am going to go do now is change out the inj. with the stock ones along with the stock mass air. I do not understand how this will benefit since I have all this air coming in, but its worth a shot. And If it runs the same, I am going to get better mileage so until I change the 24s and 77mm maf back in, maybe ill have another option or two. Hopefully.. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
OK 3 1/2 hours later I did it. 19lb inj. back in along with the stock mass air and I gotta tell ya, it feels the same. Not saying necessarily that thats not good. Other than the fact that I did spend some money on these things and I couldnt tell any difference between them and stock, so thats kinda a bitc.h. There I was looking at the Pro-M 77mm Mass Air and the stock one seeing a very big difference, yet no noticeable performance gains. Ill run it again on the g-tech at the same place with probably the same conditions and well see if it runs slightly better as is.
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
Are you running any kind of slicks, or DR's?
------------------ 1989 GT, 3:55's, full exhaust, 4 in. hood, Pro 5.0, Have many other parts 4 sale. All parts for sale now. 2000 Camaro SS-A4, 13.7's bone stock. 1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more! |
No I am only running 275/40/17 street tires. I dont plan on changing to slicks or DR because I have known people that can run at least mid 13s on radials. There are people on here that can do it too. Besides, my traction really isnt bad. Like I said before, if I were to blame my traction for any part of the lousy ETs, I would say they are responsible for 3 tenths of it at most. But by all means, if u have any other suggestions or where to crash this thing go ahead and tell me. http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
Yer 60's are even worse than I thought. If you want a respectable et with your combination, youre gonna have to get them down around 1.9-1.8. You say that you dont want drag radials cause there are other people running 13's on radials. Are they doing it in a sn95 convertible? Probably not. I seem to remember Killercanary got his into the 13's, i cant remember his combination, but i remember being impressed with it. You might search back a couple weeks and find his thread. Besides slicks and weight transfer, i think you need 2 things: Cam, autologic chip. (preferrably from jms.) I think an e303 would really wake your car up, it would even work fairly well with a blower. As for the air meter and injectors not making a difference, im not surprised. I figured out that I had to spend a bunch of money on my car to get it ready to go fast. After I spent 3 or 4k on little stuff, the big stuff (heads, cam, intakes) made a big difference.
andy ------------------ 3 Black 94 GT Vert. AODE/TKO conversion, 3:73's, ported X-305's, GT40 manifolds, 75mm TB, 30lbers, PMS, 300 horse Top Gun wet kit, and all the other little stuff |
Your car is heavy, your going to need a little more gear. Your not getting the full benifits of all your engine mods with the stock cam. My car runs the same MPH granny shifting or power shift, ALL the ET differnce comes in the first 60' for me. It takes a 2.0 60' to get me into the 13's. I leave at 1500/1800 on Firestone SZ50's (225 60 15's) Our cars are differnt but I hope this helps.
Good luck, Earl ------------------ 90LX 5.0 5 speed. 3.55's, pulleys, exaust...13.96@98mph. 220rwhp 281tq. BBK springs, Monroe GP's. |
OK I looked up Killcanary's setup and hes running 12.9s now. He has DRs, custom cam, EEC tuner, and 4.10 gears. These are the only mods I can see that would bring noticeable changes. I am not sure if my 14.5 would drop a second and a half just from compying these though. The reason I am so resistant to getting other parts is just that. I have dropped a lot of money into this car and now I have to drop more money into my car just to wake up the other well paid parts? Well I already did that. Rule number one was get new heads, anything is better than stock, you MUST get new heads! Well here I am and I am a dissatisfied customer. However, I KNOW this thing is faster. For one, I can feel it pull harder throughout gears and two, I can finally chirp 3rd! Never could I do that before. Heh, but my 1st to second shift is still the same type of chirp/peel. Which brings me to a question. If I shift at 5100, I get minimal tire chirpage..if I shift at 4800 I peel out bad HENCE the need for the DRs you guys suggest or even some lower control arms. Now the common sense question is, given the best traction and same power RPM outage, would I want to shift where I have so much power I would peel out? Or do I want to shift a little higher than what my dynoed RPM said was my highest HP point(4750)? I would assume shift where the traction is bad cuz it is obvious that thats where the most power is made(or is it torque?), but I thought shifting a little higher from where you made most HP was appropriate. Lets also not forget that I dynoed my car before heads, so might that change the highest HP RPM point? Now if i had the DRs I would hook up and would not peel out through the shifts and get better times right? BUT as god as my witness I do not want to spend another dollar on another part from an ET improvement when I can just tune what I got and what I do.
As far as getting a cam goes, I have read another post saying that the stock cam is good enough for up to 12 second passes. I am only asking mid 13s. Not too much to ask is it? Let the record reflect that I am going out in a few to G-tech the hell out of my car. I WILL come home with a better time than 14.5! ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
3650LB with you in it.
I have a LX that is 3060LB with a full tank and with me in it is 3240lbs That is Over 400LBS more! I have run 14.28 That was with 3/4 of a tank of gas and I had a 1 passanger in it so the car was about 3425lb. I would think That your car cant be runing great or some thing. I hope you can get it up and running good soon!!! ------------------ 14.28@103.0 on a G-Tech Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, NOW it is time for Real power STUFF I Have and will put on after I get everthing: Mac cold intake, 70MM TB, Valve covers (COOL ONES)255 Fuel pump. Next to get: rocker arms,Cam,TFS Heads,Injectors 26,Holley intake, What might I need??? See It at <A HREF="http://www.computerconquest.com" TARGET=_blank>www.computerconquest.com< |
Stang Runner, well thats why I am helpless here. I dont know where to look or what to change. but anyway.....
UPDATE!!!!! Ok I just got back from the running the living shi.t out of my car. I went out on Pratt Whitney(on the way to moroso) and G-teched it. I must of made 8 runs, driving inbetween, so time to cool off, and heres what about i ran.. 1st run launched at 3300...shifted at 5000 what did i get? 5.9 0-60 14.5@101(MPH is always more) 2nd-4th run launched the same shifted earlier 4800. 0-60 6.0 14.44@101. 3rd-? runs launched same shifted at 4500-4600 0-60 6.1 UGH 14.68@100. Figures. Last few runs and some sweat, tears, and cuss words later. Launched at 2200 shifted at 5300 (as was told by some1 on stangenet) 0-60 5.8 14.3@102. Thank you! Not good enough for me! Last run. launched same RPM shifted at 5500 powershifting. 0-60 5.7 14.28@102. This still sux, but I did not know about shifting this high before. Is this because of the heads?? Now if I was at a track and I had time to cool down, maybe 13s are around the corner. ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
I think I posted earlier, if you are using the factory tach, it's not always accurate. Which is why shifting higher can help. Yes the heads will move your powerband higher as well.
A 14.28 with a hot car is a significant improvement over 14.5. Try going to 5800 on the stock tach. The upgraded MAF meter should be helpful, but it will need to be recalibrated for the 19lb injectors, and it's a little big for your application. If you want, picking up a Cobra 73mm MAF on Ebay could be a cheap solution? I haven't priced them. What's your fuel pressure at? I agree, you should be able to get your 60ft to drop a good 2 tenths. Remember 2 tenths on the 60ft is worth up to 4 on the big end. That would put you well into the 13's. |
you have to be loyal to your car, your name is "slowstang" if i called myself that, my car would find out, and get mad, and slow down http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/biggrin.gif lol, alright must get sleep,
units right though, fuel pressure needs to be adjusted most likely, and with heads, you can probaly shift much higher than before, kinda the whole point in buying them. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, 177k miles, steeda water pump pulley, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 next mods:4.10's, slicks. |
ok, I am heavier than you (3700 with me in it...)I have significatly less mods than you (no real engine work) and I can run 14.6
your 60' time will make or break a run, you say you dont have traction probs but I dunno... I have to leave at just above idle on street tires... get som subs, get some LCA, get some N2O if you really want to break out of the 14's! http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif Seriously, I think your car is capable of 13's but all the power in the world wont help if you dont have ther right tires! DO NOT GO BY THE STOCK TACH! It is way off, my shift light is set at 5100 rpm...my tach reaches 5500 when the light goes on! want to get a cheap shift light? go to http://harlan.sketchy.net/ they are 35 bucks, easy to install and are programable to whatever RPM you want to shift on... -ed ------------------ My Mustang 91 LX Conv. 52,000 orig mi. Hurst shifter,King Cobra clutch, 3.55 grs, NOS 150 kit, MSD 6al, MSD timing control, malory coil, pullies, adj fuel reg, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm maf, battery in trunk, JBA: shorties,subs,strut tower brc, Comp eng. 6 point cage, dynomax 2 1/2" exhaust, Hotchkis lower cntrl arms, MAC cold air kit, off road h pipe. |
Yea you guys are right about shifting higher. When I had my gears installed in 2 months ago, I asked for suggestions on where to shift and some peeps on here said to shift earlier than I normally would with the 3.08s and that didnt render me anything other than peeling out more which I thought would mean more power, but after the heads I was powershifting at 5500 at the stock tach. The redline looks like at 5800 on stock tach..so this is where I do it? Since the stock tach is off and all?
Unit, my 19lb inj. are working with the stock mass air again. The inj. are stock as well. The only aftermarket induction i have laying around was what I took out yesterday. I took out the 24s and pro-m 77maf which was calibrated for the 24s. Now that I know where to shift I am thinking if putting them back in and shifting right will render me even more improvement. What do you guys think of that? Oh yea fuel pressure is at 38* with 24s and 19s. Should I change it or leave it be? Ed, subs are going in tomorrow (steeda full lengths)! What are LCAs? ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
As the guys mentioned it before, you need some good tuning to take the advantage of your mods, specialy with the SN95 computers being one of the worst. Here is a link to a website that offers a reprogramable chips. Haven't tryed them myself yet so I can't tell you how effective they are. Give it a look anyways. Goodluck.
http://www.tweecer.com/downloads.html ------------------ |
It's hard to give proper advice on shifting when you have the stock tach. Redline is at 5900rpms, and fuel cutoff is 6250. I would bet your stock tach is reading high.
Stock fuel pressure is 38psi. With your mods and 24lb injectors to keep the same injector cycle you'd be set right about where you were. With the 19lbers, setting them up to maybe 45psi or so might give you a little better results. You could try upgrading to a fox body computer, but they don't have the electric fan control built in. I think I read somebody offers a conversion harness, but I forgot who. The fox computer will be more aggressive. Otherwise, just get your launches down. Are you dropping or slipping out the clutch? |
Slipping
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
Try to smooth slip the car out in 1st gear from about 2000rpms under maybe 1/2 throttle till full engagement. You should have enough gear to keep the car from bogging. As you begin to engage the clutch, give the car more gas till full engagement where you should be just about WOT. Keep the hammer down after that. If you burn them up, you need some traction enhancements.
What tires are you running? |
Slowstang,
don't pay too much attention to needing DR's. on street tires, with NO motor mods, stock injectors, only 3:55's in the rear, a short throw shifter, exhaust and a cold air induction kit i ran 14.5's in the quarter. just because its a vert doesn't mean crap. i heard it all the time from all my friends with coupes until we went to the track and i turned better times than they did. oh, also good call on gettign 3:55's i do highway driving alot and the 3:55's are good enough. especially if you plan on getting a power adder later. i have done some research and found out you can blow yourself out of your powerband alot easier with 3:73's and up. good luck and hope i helped a bit. |
You need a steeper cam in order to take advantage of those mods and better traction since your 60ft times could be better. Also, remove any unnecessary weight.
------------------ '93 GT Conv. TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, Cobra Intake, Lunati Cam, 24lb inj.,Pro-M 80 mm MAF 13.24 @ 106.40 mph w/2.05sec/60ft |
What a day its becomming today. I went to go get my subs welded on. When I go to leave the shop, I notice my battery light was on and the power sterring didnt work. Yep, you guess it, my belt has slipped completely off. When I called my other mechanic to find out what size it was he said "did you notice a few parts missing from your engine?" And I noticed the air pump was gone. Since the H-pipe is off road and the heads are set up differently, I dont need it anymore. Therefore, I needed a shorter belt. This new belt I got was maybe 1-2 cm shorter which makes me a little nervous. Should I be? Oh yea, since this air pump isnt there, doesnt that render me yet, MORE power?! If not less weight..
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
You should look into getting a custom JMS chip. I too have a 94 vert and the chip really woke my car up. I don't have any time slips yet but can say that it feels much responsive runs alot stronger.
It would probably benefit your car too. ------------------ TFS twisted wedge heads, TFS street intake, Lunati cam .500/.510 218/226, BBK FPR, BBK shorties, BBK 70mm tb, Pro-m 75mm, ASP pulleys, FMS 3:73, Transgo shiftkit,Flowmasters, Bassani x-pipe, K&N FIPK, FMS 1.6 roller rockers, 9mm wires,24lbs injectors, 190lph fuel pump, MSD cap and rotor, 18" wheels w/street tires, JMS custom chip, Trickflow phenolic spacer. ETs soon to come... |
moponys, how much was it and what did you have to do to get it for your application?
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. This is with the stock heads) |
Without the smog pump you really wont gain any noticable power, however, buy a short belt and bypass the powersteering (for the strip) and knock off 2 tenths, and gain about 1.5 mph, i know the belt size, but not sure if sn95's are the same as fox's on the belt.
Je4e, i dont know where your getting your info from, but grs over 3.73 will not "blow you out of the powerband" trust me, now i know of people that slowed before with 3.73's, but thats because they had to learn how to launch it, and when i get 4.10's, im sure traction will be much more of a problem, my granny 3.27's are bogging me out of the powerband, but having a cam really helps that powerband too, using steep grs http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif |
i know this may be off the subject, but with all those mods you made on your car, it should be quicker. you may do what my friend did and say fug it, and get carbed'. so far it cost him less and he seems to get more out of the stock block that he did with a similar setup like yours. dont get me wrong, you can make alot of power either way, but the carb seem to flow a little better. the only con against carbed its throttle response as conpared to FI. hope you get the car figured out! i know how you feel.
p.s. there is a saying that i was told and it works very well: K.I.S.S. somebody told me that and it seemed to work. good luck! ------------------------ 90 LX Black on Black Flowbabies, h-pipe, Mac unequal shorties, Hurst, 3.55's. lowered, K&N, subframes, MSD coil |
Let's focus on some numbers, shall we?
97mph trap with a 2.31 60ft. You've got the power to pick up 6 tenths with a good launch. Pulling off a 2.0 60ft would get you into the 13's right now. You found a way to run a 98-99mph real trap on the Gtech. That is plenty to get your vert into the 13's with a good launch. If you've got traction issues adding power won't help you as much as you think. What wheels do you have right now? How wide are they? |
Unit, wheels at 17x9 chrome Cobra-Rs packing 275-40-17 Kumhos. I had subs and a brace put on and have yet to mess with the car due to rain. AND, youll love this, I gunned it 2nd gear last night to the redline(since i reinstalled injs and mass air) and I get pulled over buy a crybaby co.ck err i mean cop. I got a $148 hit in the a$$ by him. All for going 5 min down the road to get a pizza that I ordered. So that all in itself has slowed the possibility to get ANY other mods. As far as launching w/out the slipping clutch routine, I havent been able to work on it too much because I am not sure if it ruins the clutch. (right foot on brake and gas while left foot is letting out the clutch until it grabs..then hold until you want to go)..THIS would be something I need to work on most definetly.
------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes 14.2@102 MPH on G-tech;?MPH at track. I know, I know I am working on it. |
Dude, that bites. How did you get a ticket that high? You could have only been going 63mph or so at redline, and we already think your tach reads high. Meaning at redline, you were probably doing more like 55mph.
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Not that this is the forum for this, but if you were speeding and the officer caught you and wrote you a ticket, what makes him a ****(fill in your own ignorant term for police officers)?
------------------ Todd 1995GT Cobra look-alike pulleys; Flowmaster cat-back; 65mm TB; Cobra R's, front, and wing; FMS aluminum driveshaft |
OK, let's see here. I'd be able to really give you my advise on your car with track numbers that include everything from 60, 330, 1/8th, 1000, 1/4 etc. And as for lossing just 3 tenths from traction- its a lot more than that. For example, with an intake, 65mm T-body, headers, offroad x pipe, mufflers, 3.73's, and pulleys, I was running 14.3 at 96.5mph on street tires. This was with 2.08 60's on 245-50-16 H rated kelly tires. This was accomplished with a 2500rpm launch with clutch slippage to negate wheel spin. With the nitto DR's, I cut my 60's to 1.91's, and hence dropped 5 tenths from my ET and gained 2mph! I went to 13.83 at 98.55mph. With the DR's I was able to launch it hard and get my heavy a$$ moving. When I first hit the strip with my new setup I ran 13.5 at 103.Xmph. With timing and fuel pressure tuning I got it to 13.2 at 105.X. With the EEC-Tuner I have now run a 12.92 at 106.85mph. I shift at 6000rpm's on the stock tach, though with the stock cam I might shift at 5500-5800 if I were you. Your setup seems solid enough to get you into the 13's. JFYI- my car weighs 3690 in race form with me in it, and stock, I G-Tech'd it at a 15.1 at 93mph, it actually ran 15.2 at 90 at the track stock.
------------------ 1995 NA GT CONVERTIBLE BEST ET: 12.92 BEST MPH: 106.85 AFR's, FTI cam, edelbrock intake, EEC TUNER and lots more. http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary |
OK listen to me you need slicks man
I dont care if other people have run 13 on radials if you have too much power your gonna ruin your 60ft time and any racer will agree that that is your back bone if you had a bit less power you prolly wouldnt spin so much and you could pull off a a better 60 and in the end a better 1/4 getting drag radials would fix all your problems my buddies STOCK 5.0 ran a 13.77 on drag radials and at best a 14.7 on radials so its in the tires anywho thats my 2 cents Sean |
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The numbers his naturally aspirated cars were making were unbelievable, most were at or over 300HP at the rear wheels. THIS is what made me go forth and buy the parts. I told him I wanted to trap at least 105mph, and seeing how I've gone almost 107mph in my nearly 3700lb car- it was worth it! BUT, I do admit I have made over 300 passes at the track and I believe I can get darn close to the best my car is capable of. The track is like a science, good times only come when everything is right. If you mess up one little thing, the run will be shot and the times will suffer. Get your 60's down to the 2.0-1.9 range and there's no question that you'll be in the 13's. P.S.- so far the EEC-Tuner has bested my previous best time and mph by 3 tenths and 1.85mph, and that's with just changing the tip in, timing retard, fan settings, and WOT voltage. If you decide to add a cam, you'll probably have idle problems, and this can cure that as well. I now have my idle set at 850rpm's and it doesn't surge at all now. Check out shiftmaster's website: http://www.eec-tuner.com ------------------ 1995 NA GT CONVERTIBLE BEST ET: 12.92 BEST MPH: 106.85 AFR's, FTI cam, edelbrock intake, EEC TUNER and lots more. http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/killercanary |
Todd, since you are keepiong score at home I called the officer a co.ck. Why? Well maybe because he gave me a ticket due to the sound of my exhaust and used a speeding implication to justify it. It said I was going 64..which was about right only problem was when he "clocked" me I was at 34MPH. How do I know that? Well I know that from the point of this topic. My car isnt goingto jump that high that fast. By the time I got to 60MPH he was turning around. So, what, he kept the gun on me with one hand while turning the car with the other from 1/2 mile away. No. He heard my car from when he passed me, turned around, noticed the distance I had from the time he he first saw me until he turned around, and, in conclusion wrote me a bogus ticket. Resulting in yet, another life saving cop doing his honorable job well by keeping people with heavy feet off the road!
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