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aftermarket K-members
Who is using one, and what do you think of it? I am looking to get one this winter and I am looking at the QA1 k-member.
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I've been using a Griggs K-member and A-arms since '97 and really like the features that it offers (engine setback capability, lighter, revised geometry, etc.)... the only downfall to the Griggs unit that I can see compared to the other available today, is that some of the others (AJE and D&D come to mind) offer a bit more header clearance do to a slightly different design. I haven't read or heard anything negative/positive about the QA1 member, but I do use their adj. shocks and struts and absolutely love them, so they make some good stuff, IMHO. :)
You'll really like the advantages a tube K-member offer The most difficult aspect I can think of installing one is using plumb bobs to square the k-member to the car... it was my first time ever using a "plumb bob" but I got everything within a 1/16" and the car goes straight as an aero, on a good track anyhow ;) I just took my time to measure once, measure again, and snug everything up, measure again (and again to be sure, lol) and rat-tat-tat 'em all down with the impact gun. :) ...and then head to the alignment shop. Are you doing the coil-overs and tubular A-arms too? If you've got any specific questions, let me know... -Ryan |
ultraflo - is there any metal cutting or welding involved with the install?
sorry to jump in on your post, Wade... E |
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No problem, thats a good question. |
We just put one of the D&D ones in a car along with a flaming river manual rack, tubular A arms, coil over kit, Lakewood 90/10s, D&D camber caster plates, and bumpsteer kit.
It was a really simple bolt in, only thing is if your car has ever had a very hard front impact and been fixed back then it's possible that things won't line up. His had been so we ended up having to drill the K member somewhat, about 1/4 inch more, on a couple of the mounting holes to allow it to line up so we could get the bolts on it. Ultraflow said he had to use a plumb bob, on this one it was pretty much made for no adjustment, the holes were just big enough to get it in the car in the factory location. They're very cool looking in the car. I couldn't really get any good pictures but here ya go: http://www.stanggang.com/images/11-1...s/MVC-007F.JPG There's a picture here's the link to the full sized picture. http://www.stanggang.com/images/11-11-02/MVC-007F.JPG You can see a couple of more pictures of this thing on the site if you go look in that images section. We haven't set the motor down in the car yet but it doesn't like there are going to be any clearence problems at all and it's also possible to offset the motor to the back which we're considering trying. He spent a wad of cash on those parts though for that front end. We bought our stuff from the D&D booth at an NMRA event and got it cheaper. The K alone I don't think is that high but I know he spent around $1500 by the time it was all said and done but he went all out on that front suspension setup. Hey UltraFlow, have you set your engine back any with your kit? If so how much have you gone back with it and did it help out any? |
Eric, there was no cutting or welding involved with the install I did... as far as bolting up the Griggs unit, there is one locator hole that is a perfect circle, and the other three are oblong, allowing for some movement.
GT_90, I had to set my motor back the 1" allowed by the mounts on the k-member because the drain plug in the rear sump of my Moroso T-sump pan was right up against the tube that runs from side to side (sits in between the two sumps in other words). I was very unhappy about the plug not missing in the stock location, but at the same time, I was glad the k-member had that option already built into it. So, in a strange way, the setback did help a bunch... I could drain the oil from my rear sump, lol. :) It's been said that the engine setback helps weight transfer, exhibits better handling, etc. Oh, I had to have my alum. driveshaft shortened 1" as well, and had to do some modifications to the x-member. That's about it for mod's, in my case anyhow, to allow the engine setback. |
i heard to put one in a 95 that was made for the fox's you have to elongate the holes a little too. which made no sense to me, i thought they had the same k member. sorry to jump in your post wade. im looking to get one too, BY THE WAY, ON EBAY THEY ARE SELLING THE WHOLE D&D KIT FOR FOXES (DRAG) FOR $539 THAT COMES WITH D&D DRAG ONLY K MEMBER, D&D TUBULAR A ARMS, AND THE FRONT COIL OVER KIT. I THINK THAT WOULD BE THE CHEAPEST WAY. AND THEY ARE ALL BRAND NEW!
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Thanks a bunch guys:cool: That helped out big time!
Wade |
Yeah guys, thanks for the info...good stuff.
Hey, Smokedawg, don't forget to give us an update on your project. We're all really interested to hear/see how it's progressing. E |
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