air/fuel gauge
 

I was just wondering how close these gauges are or should I just go off of reading my plugs. I don't want to put in a gauge if all it is going to do is look like a stobe light at night.

Thanks for the input

while air fuel gauges can give you a basic idea, especially in showing if you are rich enough @ WOT, I think that aknock sensor adn EGT gauge are far more useful as tuning tools, though not nearly as entertaining to watch @ night.

Can you put a "knock sensor" on a mustang?
I've never heard of this.

MSD makes one. It does not wire into the EEC, but has a driver visual readout and audio warning. It is sensitivity adjustable and instructions are included to set it to your engine. The sensor installs in the coolant passgeway on the driver side rear of the block. There is a pipe plug in the hole from the factory. I am running a 6BTM with the Vortech, so if I am getting a higher reading than I am comfortable with due to high outside temps, low quality gas, etc.. I can take out a little more timing under boost. About $125 from Summit, if memory serves.

knock sensor
 

oops. double post.

knock sensor
 

We make a closed-loop knock controller system, called the J&S SafeGuard.

Using a single knock sensor, the unit retards only the cylinders that are pinging. Our newest units incorporate boost retard, with "when" and "how much" knobs.

Here's a link to an article written by Larry Henderson from a few years ago. The photos in the article are of our earlier "ugly duckling" version.

http://www.mustangworks.com/articles...ckControl.html



http://www.jandssafeguard.com/images/Universal.jpg

Looks like you guys left the A/F meter subject a while back, but here's my 2 cents: They're worthless. I have 1 hooked up to each bosch o2 sensor and they give totally different readings. The readings are as follows: no signal, an occasional "blip", almost full rich and totally full rich. They dont seem to have a smooth continual sweep of readings.

I basically "read the engine" instead, but I'm carbed so it's no as much of a science as an art. Idle is put the screws in till it sputters and back it off 1 turn. Powervalve is 8.5 and primaries=secondaries is basically a guessing game of sniffing the exhaust, watching the temp guage and feeling the loss or gain of power with jet changes: 68's summer, 72's fall, 74's dead of winter.

Hope this helped some.

crazy pete
 

I've got an A/F ratio in my car and it works to the "T". Maybe it's a little different with the carb but I have had good luck useing as part of my tune-up guide. As for theknock sensor, I might have to look into that....
Later,
Brad

Anderson Ford sells a wideband O2 kit that is very accurate. ;) Sells for $560... same people that make the PMS make this wideband kit (EFI systems)

http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.co...s/Uego1000.jpg

www.andersonfordmotorsport.com

So let me ask this: unless something is wrong with some system in the engine, both O2 sensors should give off the same reading, right?

I heard that the A/F gauges that use the red/yellow/green lights were hard to read during the day. So I tried a digital one. Basically all it does is read the voltage from the O2 sensors...it is attached to both banks (just flip a toggle). Mine reads .96 at WOT which is on the rich side. When I flip between banks each read close to the same which is what I think they are supposed to do but I could be wrong. Just my two cents, too.