Al Drive shaft
 

I am begining to get some vibration from my stock drive shaft on the highway, I am thinking about replacing it with an Alum one from FFRP. What will switching to Al do for me??? is it worth a lot of HP since I wont be spinning as much weight? How much can I expect to gain??? Do a lot of people run these, or are they more or less a race piece??? will it give me any problems on the street??? what kind of HP ratings can they handle??? are they worth the $160 that they sell for??? tell me what you think guys/girls...

Phantom

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Phantom:

The Ford aluminum driveshaft is about 7 pounds lighter than the stocker. It won't 'add' HP but will lower the rotating mass a bit, which will increase the efficacy of power transfer. It usually cures driveline vibrations caused by the stock driveshaft. If installed correctly it won't cause any problems on the street; the 2001 Ford Lighting comes from the factory with the aluminum driveshaft. It's worth the price.

I have one and my car is a everyday driver. I've had no problems with streetability. I put it on with a few other bolt ons so as far as making a big difference I'm not for sure. But the rotating mass thoery is what made me want one and it was the easiest add on I've done.

So I guess if its strong enough for the Lightening then it must be pretty strong. Does anyone know if it mounts up to the T5 Z-spec tranny?

Phantom

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Phantom I am in the same boat as you. My car has about 110K now and getting some vibration on the highway from the driveshaft. I have been pondering what the cost for 2 U joints and a rebalance VS a new Aluminum driveshaft for $160.

I'm getting a price to rebalance My Laguna's driveshaft and I'll get a quote for the Stang too. I'm in the Boston area too so I'll post the price up here for ya.

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Frank W
90 5.0 LX coupe Daily driver. Silencer removed, K&N filter. Flexalite fan, 3 core radiator. FMS flywheel and Clutch, FMS blue wires Energy Suspension end links
88 Notch 2.3L 5 speed Parts/beater car My two Notchbacks

74 Chevy Laguna Type S-3 305 Finally fixed getting a 454 to put in garage
<A HREF="http://www.chevellepages.com/folingo" TARGET=_blank>www.chevellepages.

Thanks thats great, I bet its better just to buy a new Aluminum one though... maybe not we will see... does anyone know if there is a diameter diff between the 2 shafts?

Phantom

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heh, thats what i was just going to get to. i think that the aluminum driveshaft is an inch wider in diameter than the stocker. what this makes me wonder is whether it really does free up any horsepower. even thought the aluminum is lighter, it is further away from the axis of rotation, and therefore has a higher moment of inertia. now the question is, what is the MOI of both the stock and the aluminum driveshafts? i would be very interested to know. physics is fun.

It is stronger than the stock one and yes it works with your t5-z I have that to. It is better for High RPMS Balanced Better!

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1988 LX 5.0 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.90@100.2 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 2.73 Stock Gears (New Gears Monday 3.55), World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Summit Adjustable Cluch Quadrant & Cable, Alumminum Driveshaft, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks
Engine: Steal Mounts, Ram air, K&N, Under Drive Pulles
Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back
Co

here is the info about the Al shaft:

Ford racing. Mustang / Capri 5.0 liter with T-5/SROD/C4/AOD transmissions and 7.5" & 8.8" axles.
Extra stong, 3.5" diameter with a .0.114" wall thickness and 45.5" long. 28T spline transmission slip yoke.

Now all I need is the Info on the stock one, cause I can't go measure it while I am at work.

Phantom

does anyone know the diameter of the stock drive shaft???

Phantom

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for a correct, very detailed explanation of
driveshaft harmonics/vibration, check out
the tech section, transmissions, on www.tccoa.com (by a Ford trans engineer,
no less) He says with 3.7 gears and deeper
(or very high speeds) the aluminum is necessary - something about harmonics
and less rotating mass, etc.

for very good discounts on gen Ford stuf, see www.fordpartsnetwork.com they're in
Georgetown TN, just NE of Memphis.

i had a 88 ford f250 that had a alm. driveshaft stock and beet it bad. and the driveshaft was the onlypart i never had problems with if that helps