Subframe connectors

90LxDroptop · 10-16-2001, 12:52 PM

I have a 90 LX convertible. What kind of subframe connectors do you guys suggest? the weld-on ones? And should I even get them? what do they exactly do? thanx in advance!

------------------
90 LX 5.0 AOD 3.73 Gears, Removed Air Silencer, more mods to come...

RED92LX50 · 10-16-2001, 01:52 PM

Yes, I would recommend them (any good weld-in connector - Kenny Brown, Global West, MM, Steeda, etc.).

I got the Kenny Brown with the cross-brace (not the Extreme Matrix with jacking rails - overkill for my daily driver) welded in (the only way to go - bolt in subframe connectors would probably do little to tie the frame together). I have a 92 LX Convertible, and they got rid of some chassis flex - most noticeable with the top down. I also installed a Maximum Motorsport strut tower brace which got rid of some of the cowl shake. I haven't istalled the MM K-member brace yet, but it should firm up the front even more. Next up, a six-point roll cage...

10-16-2001, 01:59 PM

Even on a stock Mustang, subframe connectors are a must. Get the weld on ones....you'll see/feel the difference in a big way.

------------------
'90 LX 5.0;12K original miles;FMS 3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside weld-on subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini 3" turbo hood;A/C delete;gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS custom chip;Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat intake (12.299 @ 113mph w/ a 1.78 60')
....soon to be b

Mr 5 0 · 10-16-2001, 02:01 PM

As RED92LX50 mentioned, subframe connectors are a good investment, especially on a convertible where chassis flex and cowl shake is a real problem.

The purpose of subframe connectors is to reduce chassis flex (twisting) by tying the front and rear 'subframes' together and making the chassis more rigid and stronger, much like a 'full-frame' vehicle.
Chassis flex from torque will eventually ripple your floorpan and even your quarter panels if you have enough power. Not good.
You also lose traction when the body and the rear axle are twisting from torque - which the 5.0 has in abundance, especially with mods. Last but not least, installing sub-frame connectors will reduce rattles and vibration; you'll feel the car hold the road on curves better and much less rattling over train tracks and bumps, although it may ride a bit harder due to reduced flexing.

Tubular style is best (I have Global-West) and a cross-brace is a good idea and worth the extra money. Have them welded, no question about it. Most muffler shops can do this but check around for prices.

90LxDroptop · 10-16-2001, 03:32 PM

thanx a lot guys you've been a huge help!

------------------
90 LX 5.0 AOD 3.73 Gears, Removed Air Silencer, more mods to come...

AJSTANG · 10-16-2001, 04:58 PM

Subframe connectors are recommended to reduce body flex. I had the MAC tubular subframes bolted and welded in on my 93 GT vert. The install is more difficult on verts than the other Mustang body styles. This is because the verts have gussets stamp-welded in the exact place where the subframe is attached to the frame.

------------------
'93 GT Conv.
TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, Cobra Intake, Lunati Cam, 24lb inj.,Pro-M 80 mm MAF
12.80 @ 108.13 mph w/1.80sec 60ft

'91 LX Coupe Flowmaster Cat-back, ASP crank pulley, 4.10 gears

Phantom5oh · 10-17-2001, 09:30 AM

I have a vert myself, and they are a must... but do yourself a favor and go to a chassis shop and have them cut your floor pan and install them through the floor wended the full length... this is the best connector you can install... the shop i go to always has a pile of old welded in and bolted on connectors that wern't done like this in a heap/shlt pile in the corner... it cost me &195 for the parts and install... the only bad thing is you hafta rip out your interior to do this... but it is well worth it as this actually creates a solid chassis car... hope this helps...

Phantom

------------------
Project Bird Turd

Loose Cannon Racing
Scarzi Machine Works

JRowlette · 10-17-2001, 11:46 AM

I have steeda weld-ins with the cross braces that bolt to the seats.
Highly recommended, huge difference.

1BAD89 · 10-17-2001, 01:18 PM

I have some brand new BBK subframe connectors that I'll sell you pretty cheap, if your interested send me a private message.

------------------
-1989 GT, not stock.

-2000 Camaro SS-A4,
13.4's bone stock.

-1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), tubbed, trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

SlowStang2 · 10-18-2001, 09:11 AM

I don't know what everyone is talking about when they say huge difference, cuz I felt NO difference. I got both full length steeda subframes and a strut tower and there was no ride quality improvement. I do not road race, but still, shouldn't I had felt something?

------------------
94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes, 1.7 RRs 13.8@100 MPH It's about time.

90dpscoupe · 10-18-2001, 09:29 PM

slowstang, i think you feel more difference in the fox bodies, i could be wrong, i never rode in any verts sn95. My buddies car (85notch) felt more rigid, and left the line straight, instead of fishtailing around, im thinking about putting on a crossbrace since i have reinforced floorpans.

------------------
90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs.
Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks)
Best mph: 98.17
Best 60': 1.9607

someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

jetuomi · 10-18-2001, 09:49 PM

I got welded on boxed subframes a few days ago, and I could tell the diffence only because on the way there, there was a rough section of highway, and on the way back, on that same section, the car drove much better, it hit the bumps better, and it also takes off-ramps (90 degree or bigger) faster and with less "flex"...
mine is a SN-95, and while it was stiff, its stiffer now. and, it DEFINATELY launches differently now.. but mainly, its just small improvements.. since they are so cheap, they're worth it I think...

------------------
94 GT (triple black)
FMS 95 17" Cobra R's / AL Driveshaft / 3.27's
K&N, 190 lph, subframes, pulleys
MAC Shifter/Gauges/Pedals, Euro Clear Projectors & Corners
My CAR!

10-16-2001, 12:52 PM	#1
90LxDroptop Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Arlington Hts. IL Posts: 315	Subframe connectors I have a 90 LX convertible. What kind of subframe connectors do you guys suggest? the weld-on ones? And should I even get them? what do they exactly do? thanx in advance! ------------------ 90 LX 5.0 AOD 3.73 Gears, Removed Air Silencer, more mods to come...

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10-16-2001, 01:52 PM	#2
RED92LX50 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 1999 Location: Fairfax, VA Posts: 220	Yes, I would recommend them (any good weld-in connector - Kenny Brown, Global West, MM, Steeda, etc.). I got the Kenny Brown with the cross-brace (not the Extreme Matrix with jacking rails - overkill for my daily driver) welded in (the only way to go - bolt in subframe connectors would probably do little to tie the frame together). I have a 92 LX Convertible, and they got rid of some chassis flex - most noticeable with the top down. I also installed a Maximum Motorsport strut tower brace which got rid of some of the cowl shake. I haven't istalled the MM K-member brace yet, but it should firm up the front even more. Next up, a six-point roll cage...

10-16-2001, 01:59 PM	#3
bada$$lx Guest Posts: n/a	Even on a stock Mustang, subframe connectors are a must. Get the weld on ones....you'll see/feel the difference in a big way. ------------------ '90 LX 5.0;12K original miles;FMS 3.55 gears; March pulleys;Edelbrock Performer Heads;BBK 1 5/8" equal length shorties;MSD 6AL ignition w/ blaster 2 coil;FMS E303 cam;Pro-M 75mm MAF;BBK 70mm TB; Eibach drag-launch spring kit;Southside weld-on subs;9" K&N cone filter charger;Hurst shifter;Cervini 3" turbo hood;A/C delete;gutted cats;2 chamber Flomasters;Corbeau racing seats;FMS 30# injectors;JMS custom chip;Holley 190lb fp;TFS track heat intake (12.299 @ 113mph w/ a 1.78 60') ....soon to be b

10-16-2001, 02:01 PM	#4
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	As RED92LX50 mentioned, subframe connectors are a good investment, especially on a convertible where chassis flex and cowl shake is a real problem. The purpose of subframe connectors is to reduce chassis flex (twisting) by tying the front and rear 'subframes' together and making the chassis more rigid and stronger, much like a 'full-frame' vehicle. Chassis flex from torque will eventually ripple your floorpan and even your quarter panels if you have enough power. Not good. You also lose traction when the body and the rear axle are twisting from torque - which the 5.0 has in abundance, especially with mods. Last but not least, installing sub-frame connectors will reduce rattles and vibration; you'll feel the car hold the road on curves better and much less rattling over train tracks and bumps, although it may ride a bit harder due to reduced flexing. Tubular style is best (I have Global-West) and a cross-brace is a good idea and worth the extra money. Have them welded, no question about it. Most muffler shops can do this but check around for prices.

10-16-2001, 03:32 PM	#5
90LxDroptop Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Arlington Hts. IL Posts: 315	thanx a lot guys you've been a huge help! ------------------ 90 LX 5.0 AOD 3.73 Gears, Removed Air Silencer, more mods to come...

10-16-2001, 04:58 PM	#6
AJSTANG Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Maryland Posts: 123	Subframe connectors are recommended to reduce body flex. I had the MAC tubular subframes bolted and welded in on my 93 GT vert. The install is more difficult on verts than the other Mustang body styles. This is because the verts have gussets stamp-welded in the exact place where the subframe is attached to the frame. ------------------ '93 GT Conv. TFS Twisted Wedge Heads, Cobra Intake, Lunati Cam, 24lb inj.,Pro-M 80 mm MAF 12.80 @ 108.13 mph w/1.80sec 60ft '91 LX Coupe Flowmaster Cat-back, ASP crank pulley, 4.10 gears

10-17-2001, 09:30 AM	#7
Phantom5oh Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 334	I have a vert myself, and they are a must... but do yourself a favor and go to a chassis shop and have them cut your floor pan and install them through the floor wended the full length... this is the best connector you can install... the shop i go to always has a pile of old welded in and bolted on connectors that wern't done like this in a heap/shlt pile in the corner... it cost me &195 for the parts and install... the only bad thing is you hafta rip out your interior to do this... but it is well worth it as this actually creates a solid chassis car... hope this helps... Phantom ------------------ Project Bird Turd Loose Cannon Racing Scarzi Machine Works

10-17-2001, 11:46 AM	#8
JRowlette Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bowling Green, KY Posts: 95	I have steeda weld-ins with the cross braces that bolt to the seats. Highly recommended, huge difference.

10-17-2001, 01:18 PM	#9
1BAD89 Tubbed and Juiced Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma Posts: 1,861	I have some brand new BBK subframe connectors that I'll sell you pretty cheap, if your interested send me a private message. ------------------ -1989 GT, not stock. -2000 Camaro SS-A4, 13.4's bone stock. -1989 Chevy S-10, EX. Cab-383(500+hp on motor), tubbed, trick flow heads, trick flow pistons, etc... autometer phantom gauges, "built" 700R4, roll cage, lexan back window, corbeau seats, R.H.S. 5 harnesses, Fuel cell, convo pro wheels, 15x14's with 29x18.5 M/T'S on back, 15x4's on front, nitrous, and so much more!

10-18-2001, 09:11 AM	#10
SlowStang2 Registered Member Join Date: May 2001 Location: Stuart, FL, US Posts: 147	I don't know what everyone is talking about when they say huge difference, cuz I felt NO difference. I got both full length steeda subframes and a strut tower and there was no ride quality improvement. I do not road race, but still, shouldn't I had felt something? ------------------ 94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, GT-40Y Turbo Swirl aluminum heads, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator, Steeda strut tower and subframes, 1.7 RRs 13.8@100 MPH It's about time.

10-18-2001, 09:29 PM	#11
90dpscoupe Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: sanantonio, Tx, usa Posts: 1,407	slowstang, i think you feel more difference in the fox bodies, i could be wrong, i never rode in any verts sn95. My buddies car (85notch) felt more rigid, and left the line straight, instead of fishtailing around, im thinking about putting on a crossbrace since i have reinforced floorpans. ------------------ 90 lx coupe: 5spd, energy susp trans mounts, fms hd clutch, Mac coldair fenderwell, Mac h-pipe, supercoil, ADS chip, 160 stat, aluminum D/S, Black magic fan, 3.27grs. Best time: 13.9116(on 225/60/15 firehawks) Best mph: 98.17 Best 60': 1.9607 someday mods:4.10's, slicks.

10-18-2001, 09:49 PM	#12
jetuomi Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Waterloo, ON, Canada Posts: 214	I got welded on boxed subframes a few days ago, and I could tell the diffence only because on the way there, there was a rough section of highway, and on the way back, on that same section, the car drove much better, it hit the bumps better, and it also takes off-ramps (90 degree or bigger) faster and with less "flex"... mine is a SN-95, and while it was stiff, its stiffer now. and, it DEFINATELY launches differently now.. but mainly, its just small improvements.. since they are so cheap, they're worth it I think... ------------------ 94 GT (triple black) FMS 95 17" Cobra R's / AL Driveshaft / 3.27's K&N, 190 lph, subframes, pulleys MAC Shifter/Gauges/Pedals, Euro Clear Projectors & Corners My CAR!