

© Copyright 1995 thru 2008 - The Mustang Works™. All Rights Reserved.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
MustangWorks.com is designed and hosted by Aero3 Media.
![]() |
#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
|
![]() Has anyone tried cutting a hole in the bottom of the trunk over where the fuel pump goes into the tank and then using a flanging tool and sheetmetal to cover it? I was thinking that that may be a cool mod and would make it a whole lot easier to check fuel pump stuff.
Any drawbacks you can think of? A lot of you probably have batteries right there, but I would think those would be easier to move than dropping the tank. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Tires Fear Me...
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 867
|
![]() The only concern that I would have is exhaust coming back into the car. Theres only a couple bolts holding the tank up there anyway.
------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
|
![]() I would put some insulator around the flange and then bolt down a plate to cover the hole. It wouldn't be left gaping open or anything. It would be like an access panel.
I've dropped my tank before (by myself) and it's something I never want to do again. ![]() ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Tires Fear Me...
Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 867
|
![]() I understand what a pain in the *** they can be. I put in my new fuel pump and a week later for some reason it went out again. I had to do it both times by myself. If there wouldnt be any opening it would be nice. You would have to have enough room to unplug the wires though. I found the easiest way to do it by yourself is to use a car jack, put a such as a 2*8 or 2*10 longways on the jack and place it snug against the tank. Then when you have the bolts out of the tank. Drop it down easy. Then once you have replaced the pump. Jack it right back up.
------------------ 347 Stroker Motor: Balanced, Cobra Transmission, Extrude Ported and Polished Upper and ported Lower, GT40 Milled Ported and Polished Heads, B303 Cam, BBK 1 5/8 Headers, 30lb Bosch Injectors, Holley AFPR, March Underdrive Pulleys, Perma-Cool Fan, 3-Core Radiator, Accel Performance Coil, Accel 300+ Racing Wires, Ram Air, K&N Filter, 73mm Vortech MAF, 70mm TB, FlowMaster Exhaust w/BBK Offroad H-Pipe, Hurst Shifter, 3:55 Gears, Ram Clutch, Cross Drilled Rotors, AC and Smog del, rear seat del. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1998
Location: Rogers, MN
Posts: 2,089
|
![]() That's exactly how I did mine.
![]() The access panel would have to be pretty big since the pump has to come out and go in at an angle. If I go ahead and do it, I'll post pics of the finished product. ------------------ 351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible [This message has been edited by jimberg (edited 07-12-2001).] |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|