(update) steering rack problem....

Coupe50h · 09-14-2003, 07:45 PM

Ok fellas, some of you were real helpful in my other post, i been concentrating on the tire that had a bad bearing, which was not even close to the problem.

I jacked up the pass side, and found ALOT of play in that side, the tie rod is moving in and out of the rack without any movement from the other side, it is clearly a problem there.

Now, question is, do i need a new rack and pinion? or is there a way to replace the inner tie rod? is this a good time to go manual rack? help me out guys....

canukracer · 09-14-2003, 11:05 PM

i would replace the rack IF it leaks at the ends or has a stiff feel from a cold start, then gets better when it warms up ,other than that no, replace the inner tie rods and check the outer tie rods u don't want to do this again months down the road for another inner tie rod( canukracer has been doinin alignments and front ends for 20years now,) if your gonna keep the car change them all there not that much money!

richd · 09-15-2003, 09:44 AM

I agree with canukracer except I say replace the whole rack anyway, easier than doing the inners. That loose tie rod has been beating away at the rack, no sense keeping it if it's probably going to go bad later anyway.

From NAPA Online you can get a reman. rack with tie rods and inner rod ends for about $87. Add another $30 for outers and your set.

I went almost all out when I did mine and got a PS pump and aluminum bushings from Maximum Motorsports. I kept the hoses (should have replaced them) and already had relatively new outers so I didn't bother with them.

Good luck,

Rich D.

Coupe50h · 09-15-2003, 04:03 PM

Great! i guess the inners can be replaced? my haynes manual only illustrates the outers?
I am thinking about going to an autozone manual rack, but i need the cheapest way out of this since i got a speeding ticket today

thnx.

Coupe50h · 09-15-2003, 07:20 PM

oh and it does'nt leak?

canukracer · 09-15-2003, 09:50 PM

if your after a manual rack = use your power rack take the pressure line and the return line and use a fuel line hose to connect them together then rermove the ps pump i used this on my stock cars works fine, the fluid still goes back and forth in the rack threw the hose.

Coupe50h · 09-17-2003, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by canukracer
if your after a manual rack = use your power rack take the pressure line and the return line and use a fuel line hose to connect them together then rermove the ps pump i used this on my stock cars works fine, the fluid still goes back and forth in the rack threw the hose.

Sounds like a good idea and all, but thats ghetto

my car deserves a new rack, or all together new tie rods, nothing rigged up......

09-14-2003, 07:45 PM	#1
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	(update) steering rack problem.... Ok fellas, some of you were real helpful in my other post, i been concentrating on the tire that had a bad bearing, which was not even close to the problem. I jacked up the pass side, and found ALOT of play in that side, the tie rod is moving in and out of the rack without any movement from the other side, it is clearly a problem there. Now, question is, do i need a new rack and pinion? or is there a way to replace the inner tie rod? is this a good time to go manual rack? help me out guys.... __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

09-15-2003, 04:03 PM	#4
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Great! i guess the inners can be replaced? my haynes manual only illustrates the outers? I am thinking about going to an autozone manual rack, but i need the cheapest way out of this since i got a speeding ticket today thnx. __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

09-15-2003, 07:20 PM	#5
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	oh and it does'nt leak? __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

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09-14-2003, 11:05 PM	#2
canukracer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: alberta canada Posts: 108	i would replace the rack IF it leaks at the ends or has a stiff feel from a cold start, then gets better when it warms up ,other than that no, replace the inner tie rods and check the outer tie rods u don't want to do this again months down the road for another inner tie rod( canukracer has been doinin alignments and front ends for 20years now,) if your gonna keep the car change them all there not that much money!

09-15-2003, 09:44 AM	#3
richd Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Edison, NJ, USA Posts: 125	I agree with canukracer except I say replace the whole rack anyway, easier than doing the inners. That loose tie rod has been beating away at the rack, no sense keeping it if it's probably going to go bad later anyway. From NAPA Online you can get a reman. rack with tie rods and inner rod ends for about $87. Add another $30 for outers and your set. I went almost all out when I did mine and got a PS pump and aluminum bushings from Maximum Motorsports. I kept the hoses (should have replaced them) and already had relatively new outers so I didn't bother with them. Good luck, Rich D.

09-15-2003, 09:50 PM	#6
canukracer Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: alberta canada Posts: 108	if your after a manual rack = use your power rack take the pressure line and the return line and use a fuel line hose to connect them together then rermove the ps pump i used this on my stock cars works fine, the fluid still goes back and forth in the rack threw the hose.