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Old 01-11-2001, 01:32 PM   #1
LOCASH
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Exclamation ANYONE EVER REBUILD AN AOD

I BOUGHT A USED ONE WITH AN 85 BLOCK. I HAVE PLENTY OF TIME AND ACCESS TO A GARAGE IF I NEED IT. HOW HARD IS IT TO REBUILD ONE OF THESE FOR PERFORMANCE? I WANT TO TRY IT MYSELF.

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86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Crutchfield front kick panel speakers.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"
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Old 01-11-2001, 03:30 PM   #2
Doctor DeBo
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I rebuilt mine about five years ago and put a motor sport hi ratio gear set in.I found the most difficult part was trying to keep the parts and trans clean while installing the new gear set.I know that when you put pump housing back there is a min/max measurement from the pump to the front of the case.I used the Ford shop manual and it was a great help.So I would say if you have the patience,shop manual and a clean place to work its no big deal.Ive had zero trouble with mine ever since.
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Old 01-11-2001, 04:01 PM   #3
LOCASH
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Could you tell me which manual it is and where I could get one? I am not in the states so I have to order it.Thanks in advance.

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86 GT T-tops, AOD, B&M shift kit and hammer shifter, ROH wheels, K&N, Timing,MAC headers, 2.5 off road H, 2.5 American Thunder, 87 spindles, rear disc,SS lines, BBK 1.5, poly bushings, Crutchfield front kick panel speakers.
"DRIVE LIKE YOU STOLE IT!"
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Old 01-12-2001, 01:16 AM   #4
Mach 1
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You can buy the shop manual for your car, and it includes a chapter on the AOD, including overhaul.

Haynes also has a book for this, available at most auto parts stores.

Go to www.helm.com for the ford manual

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1993 GT/AOD
'93 Mustang GT
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Old 01-12-2001, 12:59 PM   #5
Doctor DeBo
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The phone number for the Helm company that Mach 1 mentioned is 1-800-782-4356.Thats who distibutes the manuals for Ford.
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Old 01-13-2001, 03:00 AM   #6
macx
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baumannengineering.com says pre-88 AOD's have inferior rear geartrain lube and are very suspect - likely worn out. I did my 89 & upgraded some stuff. Researched, got Carr's premium kit because it already had Alto Red clutches in it plus all the bearings/bushings etc. Mine had the cast drum, I upgraded to stamped steel ($100) so I could put the 8 direct clutches in instead of the max 6 for the cast drum. My motor is not real hot, that was kind of overkill. I would highly recommend Carr's zero leak 2-3 accumulator and A od servo and hd (not kevlar) od band. If you get the $500 wide ratio Ford gearset kit, then you can also use the wider od band. The hardest part without the special tools is putting in the lip seals into the clutch drums - I cut strips of alum cans but was a real pain. Also the rear case bushing has to go in from inside - I had to fabricate a bushing driver and used it on my slide hammer handle to get the length to get into the case. Helps to put the bushings in the freezer awhile to shrink them a little. Also takes a big set of bushing drivers - lots of different sizes. The ATSG manual (not very good) said .010" per clutch in direct clutch pack, Carr said total of only about .030 but I think that was for race only. Local rebuilder said looser is OK for better fluid flow. After doing it, I'd say stick to the .010 per disc. Instead of the expensive bar to measure total end play, assemble the trans and sit up on tailshaft end. Pull up on hollow input shaft - that's your total end play. I used Baumann shift kit - you need a kit that eliminates "cutback" - that's lowering the internal line pressure for 2-3 and 3-4 shifts for smoothness, but allows toomuch slip. Saying all this, I wish I'd of taken Baumann's advice and gotten an AOD/E - the AOD's weak points are all engineered out and a good quality stock rebuild /E with a kit is better than a beefed AOD. I've seen some specialty shops drill out the lube holes in the clutch pack drums for better lube flow, too. read the baumann site - lots of good info. good luck!
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