Crane roller conversion kit - Who's using it and what cam are you running?

2FastLX · 12-12-2001, 01:16 PM

I was told these lifters aren't good in the upper RPM range and need some first hand opinions. I was also told that I may be forced to use a Crane cam if I go with them.

If you use these lifters what is your setup, and at what RPM do you shift? Any problems with them floating or anything else I should be aware of?

Thanks.

fiveohpatrol · 12-12-2001, 02:00 PM

I thought that their roller conversion kit allowed you to use any 302HO roller cam in the 351 ?

Why don't you go with a flat tappet and rev the bastard to 7500RPM

5cu11y · 12-12-2001, 02:14 PM

The "retro fit" kit isn't really necessary anymore. Anyway, I think I still have one laying around. It served its purpose.

Quality aside, these lifters are just the same as any other hydraulic roller lifter. I don't understand what "aren't good in the upper RPM range" means.

My setup was Crane and Booth and I never had a problem. In retrospec though, I will never buy Crane again. I don't think they really make anything except stickers. Which means the only tech they can provide is on sticker adhesive vs. temperature or something.

2FastLX · 12-13-2001, 02:10 AM

5cu11y - If the "retro fit" kit isn't really necessary anymore, what other alternative is there? I'd gladly consider something else.

Can the block be machined like the roller blocks? If so I can't find anyone around here that does it. I could do it myself if it can be done and somone would give me the specs.

If these roller conversion lifters worked for you then why did you stop using them? Do you want to sell them?

I have never used these or heard anyone say they have is why I am wondering about them. Help me out here... What's the best way to put a roller cam and lifters into a 1974 351W block?

Thanks.

5cu11y · 12-13-2001, 10:30 AM

I didn't make a suggestion because then the topic ends up arguing over who makes the best knootin valve. You know?

I used Comp, chevy style HRL with an alignment bar between the pair for a bit and it worked great. The "spider" setup works though. All you have to do is tap a couple oil drains in the valley and your running. ...you can do it yourself.

I stopped using roller because of a few reasons, not the least of which is money. My setup is mechanical now, and it comes apart every time we are done with it. Roller is easier on the lobes, no doubt, but for the one who wants to try a new cam every summer, or month it just isn't wirth the money. Grief to green bro.

I am sorry I don't have a part number for you, but I will look in my box tonight and see what I can find. Meantime, any of the roller kits will work fine with ANY roller cam. The thing with Crane is just that: a thing. They are a marketing company more than anything. Would you buy a car from Amway?

BTW, what RPM/HP/TQ are you planning?

Later.

2FastLX · 12-13-2001, 12:36 PM

I don't have a set HP ot torque I am shooting for, but I do know I want to drive the car on the street so I'd like to keep peak HP below 6500 RPM or so.

If it's that simple to convert this block to a roller why will none of the machine shops around here touch it? Seems kind of weird, but then again that is all I was thinking would have to be done. It looks to be a really simple setup so I don't see why it is so complicating to do?????? I'm really confused now.

Has anyone else installed the spider and H-bars on a non-roller block before? What year was the block that you did it to?

Thanks.

5cu11y · 12-13-2001, 12:53 PM

It was a 78. If you do buy the lifters, just be sure and find out any base circle requirements for your cam. It may have to be smaller depending on the lifter, guidebar setup.

The machine shop probably said they wouldn't touch it because they don't know. I don't blame them, but that is the difference between a machine shop and an experienced speed shop.

If you really want a laugh, go to a good speed shop and ask them what they think about removing silencers, resistors on ACT sensors, 180° thermostats, iridium plugs, 16° advance, etc. Wear a flak jacket.

2FastLX · 12-13-2001, 01:09 PM

Ok, I just called Rick at Anderson Ford Motorsport and he cleared this up, which goes with what 5cu11y is saying.

If I used the spider bracket, H-bars, and lifters from a Ford roller block and just drilled two holes in the block I have I would have to use a reduced base circle cam and the RPM I wanted to shift at will be limited to less than 6200 RPM or so.

If I use the Crane lifters then any roller cam will work including one of Anderson's custom grinds, and I will have free range of RPM selection for shift points. Problem solved.

And he also told me the Crane conversion lifters work great, and the price of a reduced base circle cam more or less offsets the price of the lifters.

Thanks.

NewAge 5.0 · 12-14-2001, 01:36 AM

Why would you have to use a reduced circle.. yada yada yada camshaft? whats the purpose? what do the h-bars hit the block? I am confused.. Fill Me In

blue oval 50h · 12-14-2001, 04:09 PM

I am in the process of doing the same thing with my mexican blocked 347. The only problem is smaller base circle cams is you may have to settle for an off the shelf cam or have to get a custom one made which i heard is hard to get a company to do. I will save my pennies and go with the crane $399. setup.

12-12-2001, 01:16 PM	#1
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Crane roller conversion kit - Who's using it and what cam are you running? I was told these lifters aren't good in the upper RPM range and need some first hand opinions. I was also told that I may be forced to use a Crane cam if I go with them. If you use these lifters what is your setup, and at what RPM do you shift? Any problems with them floating or anything else I should be aware of? Thanks. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

12-12-2001, 02:00 PM	#2
fiveohpatrol I'd rather be basketweaving Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,551	I thought that their roller conversion kit allowed you to use any 302HO roller cam in the 351 ? Why don't you go with a flat tappet and rev the bastard to 7500RPM __________________ NMRA O/C 9516 NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft

12-13-2001, 02:10 AM	#4
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	5cu11y - If the "retro fit" kit isn't really necessary anymore, what other alternative is there? I'd gladly consider something else. Can the block be machined like the roller blocks? If so I can't find anyone around here that does it. I could do it myself if it can be done and somone would give me the specs. If these roller conversion lifters worked for you then why did you stop using them? Do you want to sell them? I have never used these or heard anyone say they have is why I am wondering about them. Help me out here... What's the best way to put a roller cam and lifters into a 1974 351W block? Thanks. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

12-13-2001, 12:36 PM	#6
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	I don't have a set HP ot torque I am shooting for, but I do know I want to drive the car on the street so I'd like to keep peak HP below 6500 RPM or so. If it's that simple to convert this block to a roller why will none of the machine shops around here touch it? Seems kind of weird, but then again that is all I was thinking would have to be done. It looks to be a really simple setup so I don't see why it is so complicating to do?????? I'm really confused now. Has anyone else installed the spider and H-bars on a non-roller block before? What year was the block that you did it to? Thanks. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

12-13-2001, 01:09 PM	#8
2FastLX The Photoshop Guru Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Mecca, Indiana Posts: 1,419	Ok, I just called Rick at Anderson Ford Motorsport and he cleared this up, which goes with what 5cu11y is saying. If I used the spider bracket, H-bars, and lifters from a Ford roller block and just drilled two holes in the block I have I would have to use a reduced base circle cam and the RPM I wanted to shift at will be limited to less than 6200 RPM or so. If I use the Crane lifters then any roller cam will work including one of Anderson's custom grinds, and I will have free range of RPM selection for shift points. Problem solved. And he also told me the Crane conversion lifters work great, and the price of a reduced base circle cam more or less offsets the price of the lifters. Thanks. __________________ Project: 1988 Coupe - EFI 5.8L Twin Turbo with Victor intake, Canfield heads, F303 cam, March aluminum underdrive pulleys, TKO (or T56 if funds permit), PBR twin piston calipers and 13" rotors up front, 94 Cobra rear calipers and 12" rotors on the rear, 3.73's, Griggs K-member, tubular front control arms, torque arm and panhard bar, polished 99 Cobra wheels. "The GR-40 kit installation is now complete, and the humble Fox-chassis car will now out-corner and out-stop a ZR-1 or a Viper, and support massive horsepower additions with perfect balance." Griggs Racing ICQ# 42269241

12-12-2001, 02:14 PM	#3
5cu11y Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 24	The "retro fit" kit isn't really necessary anymore. Anyway, I think I still have one laying around. It served its purpose. Quality aside, these lifters are just the same as any other hydraulic roller lifter. I don't understand what "aren't good in the upper RPM range" means. My setup was Crane and Booth and I never had a problem. In retrospec though, I will never buy Crane again. I don't think they really make anything except stickers. Which means the only tech they can provide is on sticker adhesive vs. temperature or something.

12-13-2001, 10:30 AM	#5
5cu11y Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 24	I didn't make a suggestion because then the topic ends up arguing over who makes the best knootin valve. You know? I used Comp, chevy style HRL with an alignment bar between the pair for a bit and it worked great. The "spider" setup works though. All you have to do is tap a couple oil drains in the valley and your running. ...you can do it yourself. I stopped using roller because of a few reasons, not the least of which is money. My setup is mechanical now, and it comes apart every time we are done with it. Roller is easier on the lobes, no doubt, but for the one who wants to try a new cam every summer, or month it just isn't wirth the money. Grief to green bro. I am sorry I don't have a part number for you, but I will look in my box tonight and see what I can find. Meantime, any of the roller kits will work fine with ANY roller cam. The thing with Crane is just that: a thing. They are a marketing company more than anything. Would you buy a car from Amway? BTW, what RPM/HP/TQ are you planning? Later.

12-13-2001, 12:53 PM	#7
5cu11y Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Posts: 24	It was a 78. If you do buy the lifters, just be sure and find out any base circle requirements for your cam. It may have to be smaller depending on the lifter, guidebar setup. The machine shop probably said they wouldn't touch it because they don't know. I don't blame them, but that is the difference between a machine shop and an experienced speed shop. If you really want a laugh, go to a good speed shop and ask them what they think about removing silencers, resistors on ACT sensors, 180° thermostats, iridium plugs, 16° advance, etc. Wear a flak jacket.

12-14-2001, 01:36 AM	#9
NewAge 5.0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Sanford NC USA Posts: 155	Why would you have to use a reduced circle.. yada yada yada camshaft? whats the purpose? what do the h-bars hit the block? I am confused.. Fill Me In __________________ 88 Hatch 10.60's @ 130 89 Hatch Not as fast but holds its own

12-14-2001, 04:09 PM	#10
blue oval 50h Registered Member Join Date: Dec 1998 Location: NJ Posts: 219	I am in the process of doing the same thing with my mexican blocked 347. The only problem is smaller base circle cams is you may have to settle for an off the shelf cam or have to get a custom one made which i heard is hard to get a company to do. I will save my pennies and go with the crane $399. setup.