Low cost rebuild.

salcmc · 09-10-2001, 11:34 AM

I'm currently in the process of detailing the engine and bay area of my 65 coup. The motor is a standard 289 w/c-4 trans. I've removed the motor and transmission for detailing. I've removed the heads,intake man-ifold and oilpan. I would realy like to build up this motor but can't afford to. My plan is to rebuild the motor I currently have. This is my 1st motor rebuild, and I would like to do it right. Someone has aready suggested that I do certain things to the engine in order for it to run well on Unleaded gas. What was he talking about? I need the advice of an expert with regards to what should be done to this motor(such as;rings, pistons, borings and other related machining)before I put it all back together. Perhaps there is a publication or book that could guild me step by step on this rebuild? Any and all guidence would be greatly apprieciated.

PKRWUD · 09-10-2001, 02:22 PM

Your local Barnes & Noble will have several books on rebuiling small block Fords. Buy them all.

As far as unleaded gas goes, let me explain it to you. Leaded gas had lead in it, and as anyone who used to play with a lead pencil knows, lead is slippery. It acted as a lubricant in the engine. When the lead was removed, things got tougher on engines. In particular, the exhaust valve seats.

To run on unleaded gas, you will have to have new hardened exhaust valve seats installed in your heads. Take them to a reputable machine shop and have them magnaflux them, machine the surfaces to "true" them, install new seats and guides, and install the new springs that will come with the camshaft kit you are going to buy. It would be wise to have the same machine shop do all your machine work, and at the same time. This includes surfacing the heads and block, line boring the crank journals, boring and honing the cylinders, and installing new freeze plugs and cam bearings for you. Have them "turn" your crank for you too, and purchase your bearings through them. Most important of all is to decide exactly what you want before you buy a single part, and then buy all your parts before you have any machine work done. Trust me on this.

The actual rebuilding of the engine is pretty straight forward. I doubt you have any precision measurement tools, like a set of micrometers, or a T-gauge, so find a friend who does, and have them assist you in measuring the journals and installing the crank. You will also need a dial indicator, a ring expander (do NOT spiral the rings onto the pistons), a ring compressor, an accurate 1/2" drive torque wrench, and a tap and die set. Other than that, a basic supply of tools will be fine. Compressed air is a must. Not just for air tools, but for blowing out dirt and debris. As for other "stuff" you'll need, make sure you have each of the following:
Large tube of Engine Assembly Grease
(you will apply this GENEROUSLY to the camshaft and rocker arms)
Large tube of ARP Thread Sealant
(use this to coat any bolts that enter a water jacket. it seals and prevents the bolt from rusting. do NOT use RTV silicone on any bolt threads. It causes false torque readings, and can tear and ruin the seal)
A can of Gasgacinch
(applied to both the gasket and it's mating surface, there is no better method of keeping a gasket in place while you install the part it seals. especially useful for intake manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets, waterpump, oil pan, etc.0
Several cans of Brakleen parts cleaner
(evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a film)
A couple tubes of black RTV silicone
(black is the most forgiving if you make a mess. also, VERY IMPORTANT, no matter what you read or hear from someone else, DO NOT use the supplied intake end gaskets. Instead, after setting the intake to head gaskets with gasgacinch, apply a thick bead of RTV where the end gaskets would go)
A case of oil and two oil filters
(change the oil and filter after no more than the first 50 miles. this will ensure you don't have any metal shavings or debris in the oil. then do it again after 500 miles)
Also, buy new parts. It may sound stupid, but alot of people will go and spend $3000 on a new engine, but insist on using the old water pump. Don't do this. Replace the starter, water pump, all hoses, t-stat, ignition parts, filters and belts.

Oh yeah, one more thing. DO NOT buy a "Hi-Volume" oil pump. You will never need one, and your engine will not be set up for one. They are over hyped, unecessary, and will damage your distributor shaft, oil bearings, gaskets and seals, and will cause far more grief than anything else. They do not provide "insurance" for your engine, they cause excessive strain on your engine.

There's alot of other tips and tricks, but start with these. If you need some help, or have any questions, you can email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

[This message has been edited by PKRWUD (edited 09-10-2001).]

Gearhead999 · 09-10-2001, 09:00 PM

No such thing as a low cost rebuild. You can fresh'n it up, but can't rebuild.

Sorry, it cost $$$ to do it. Machine shop, parts and labor. If you do it yourself, which is great!!, you still have the parts and machine shop cost.

salcmc · 09-11-2001, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by salcmc:
I'm currently in the process of detailing the engine and bay area of my 65 coup. The motor is a standard 289 w/c-4 trans. I've removed the motor and transmission for detailing. I've removed the heads,intake man-ifold and oilpan. I would realy like to build up this motor but can't afford to. My plan is to rebuild the motor I currently have. This is my 1st motor rebuild, and I would like to do it right. Someone has aready suggested that I do certain things to the engine in order for it to run well on Unleaded gas. What was he talking about? I need the advice of an expert with regards to what should be done to this motor(such as;rings, pistons, borings and other related machining)before I put it all back together. Perhaps there is a publication or book that could guild me step by step on this rebuild? Any and all guidence would be greatly apprieciated.

thank you for the advice.

09-10-2001, 11:34 AM	#1
salcmc Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: SpringHill,TN,USA Posts: 4	Low cost rebuild. I'm currently in the process of detailing the engine and bay area of my 65 coup. The motor is a standard 289 w/c-4 trans. I've removed the motor and transmission for detailing. I've removed the heads,intake man-ifold and oilpan. I would realy like to build up this motor but can't afford to. My plan is to rebuild the motor I currently have. This is my 1st motor rebuild, and I would like to do it right. Someone has aready suggested that I do certain things to the engine in order for it to run well on Unleaded gas. What was he talking about? I need the advice of an expert with regards to what should be done to this motor(such as;rings, pistons, borings and other related machining)before I put it all back together. Perhaps there is a publication or book that could guild me step by step on this rebuild? Any and all guidence would be greatly apprieciated.

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09-10-2001, 02:22 PM	#2
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Your local Barnes & Noble will have several books on rebuiling small block Fords. Buy them all. As far as unleaded gas goes, let me explain it to you. Leaded gas had lead in it, and as anyone who used to play with a lead pencil knows, lead is slippery. It acted as a lubricant in the engine. When the lead was removed, things got tougher on engines. In particular, the exhaust valve seats. To run on unleaded gas, you will have to have new hardened exhaust valve seats installed in your heads. Take them to a reputable machine shop and have them magnaflux them, machine the surfaces to "true" them, install new seats and guides, and install the new springs that will come with the camshaft kit you are going to buy. It would be wise to have the same machine shop do all your machine work, and at the same time. This includes surfacing the heads and block, line boring the crank journals, boring and honing the cylinders, and installing new freeze plugs and cam bearings for you. Have them "turn" your crank for you too, and purchase your bearings through them. Most important of all is to decide exactly what you want before you buy a single part, and then buy all your parts before you have any machine work done. Trust me on this. The actual rebuilding of the engine is pretty straight forward. I doubt you have any precision measurement tools, like a set of micrometers, or a T-gauge, so find a friend who does, and have them assist you in measuring the journals and installing the crank. You will also need a dial indicator, a ring expander (do NOT spiral the rings onto the pistons), a ring compressor, an accurate 1/2" drive torque wrench, and a tap and die set. Other than that, a basic supply of tools will be fine. Compressed air is a must. Not just for air tools, but for blowing out dirt and debris. As for other "stuff" you'll need, make sure you have each of the following: Large tube of Engine Assembly Grease (you will apply this GENEROUSLY to the camshaft and rocker arms) Large tube of ARP Thread Sealant (use this to coat any bolts that enter a water jacket. it seals and prevents the bolt from rusting. do NOT use RTV silicone on any bolt threads. It causes false torque readings, and can tear and ruin the seal) A can of Gasgacinch (applied to both the gasket and it's mating surface, there is no better method of keeping a gasket in place while you install the part it seals. especially useful for intake manifold gaskets, timing cover gaskets, waterpump, oil pan, etc.0 Several cans of Brakleen parts cleaner (evaporates quickly and doesn't leave a film) A couple tubes of black RTV silicone (black is the most forgiving if you make a mess. also, VERY IMPORTANT, no matter what you read or hear from someone else, DO NOT use the supplied intake end gaskets. Instead, after setting the intake to head gaskets with gasgacinch, apply a thick bead of RTV where the end gaskets would go) A case of oil and two oil filters (change the oil and filter after no more than the first 50 miles. this will ensure you don't have any metal shavings or debris in the oil. then do it again after 500 miles) Also, buy new parts. It may sound stupid, but alot of people will go and spend $3000 on a new engine, but insist on using the old water pump. Don't do this. Replace the starter, water pump, all hoses, t-stat, ignition parts, filters and belts. Oh yeah, one more thing. DO NOT buy a "Hi-Volume" oil pump. You will never need one, and your engine will not be set up for one. They are over hyped, unecessary, and will damage your distributor shaft, oil bearings, gaskets and seals, and will cause far more grief than anything else. They do not provide "insurance" for your engine, they cause excessive strain on your engine. There's alot of other tips and tricks, but start with these. If you need some help, or have any questions, you can email me at pkrwuds@pacbell.net. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! [This message has been edited by PKRWUD (edited 09-10-2001).]

09-10-2001, 09:00 PM	#3
Gearhead999 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: Oviedo, FL Posts: 992	No such thing as a low cost rebuild. You can fresh'n it up, but can't rebuild. Sorry, it cost $$$ to do it. Machine shop, parts and labor. If you do it yourself, which is great!!, you still have the parts and machine shop cost.