Transmission Question

Rosco · 04-26-2002, 09:10 AM

Ok, back to my list of problems. Well as FORD was removing my tranny and replacing everything from the block back to the tranny, the mechanic noticed that the seal on the tranny is leaking. Now, I'm not sure what I'd consider leaking...But he said it is getting wet. They told me it'd be $800 to replace the seal, the Y something or other and something else.

My question, I'm thinking of possibly taking it somewhere else to get something like that fixed. My question is, if everyone else is around the same price, would I just be better off buying a new tranny? I'm looking in jegs right now, and I see a rebuild kit for the tranny at like...$250. I'm not positive what's included in the kit, but I'm sure it'd have something to fix the seal. Or I also notice a T-5 World Class Super Duty... You think I'd just be better off getting a new tranny if the price was so high?

Conman · 04-26-2002, 10:12 AM

let me get this straight
Ford has the tranny out already, fixing other stuff, while the guy has it all apart anyways he notices the seal leaking and wants an additional $800 for just the seal? did he put it back together anyways and will have to tear it apart again?
I am assuming he is talking about the one in the input bearing retainer, it is the only seal in the front of the tranny. It is 4 bolts to take the retainer off and then a simple seal change (that is if the tranny is already out) I bet you could find just that seal for like $20. Actually, I can't remember off the top of my head but you my need to change the bearing to get at the seal but I don't think so, still not worth $800
as for the $250 rebuild kit I'm assuming jeg's would be similar to D&D Performance rebuild kit, it includes seals as well as all bearings, syncros and many other small parts. If you get someone to actually crack the tranny open to replace all the parts that come in the rebuild kit I could see it costing $800 but just for that one seal it can't be that much
I don't think I'd drop $1000 for a new tranny just for one seal

For some reason the mechanic may think he needs to crack open the tranny to replace that seal but he doesn't

hope everything works out for you

gtsr515 · 04-26-2002, 08:24 PM

Bingo!, a whole new trans costs $800, not a seal, not even a NAVY SEAL!, your getting screwed big time, period!

Go elsewhere!

Ieatcamaros · 04-26-2002, 08:42 PM

I have a T-5 tranny in my 89 GT. I just put a king cobra clutch in it, thinking that the clutch was possibly the problem. When I go to put it in reverse it grinds like all get out. That is most of the time. Every now and then, it doesn't. It has gotten better since I out the clutch in it though. Someone here locally told me that it was the synchronizer causing the problem. I have had others tell me that reverse is not synchronized. Now I do not know a lot about transmissions, but I do understand the basic concenpt. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, it also has brand new fluid in it.

sn95gt19 · 04-27-2002, 12:13 PM

thats rediculous $800 for a seal change, if they already have the trans out. one of my buddies has his 97gt at a ford dealership getting a new motor under warranty and they are changing his rear seal in his trans for $30 labor.

Rosco · 04-27-2002, 05:40 PM

Ok my apologies for not knowing everything that needs to be replaced for the tranny. On the sheet they gave me it listed the problems. Also Says a seal alone will not fix the problem. Ok ..here's all the stuff..from directly what they said

Valve Cover gaskets leaking. Estimate for repair $234.00 PLTX Tech Notes Transmission Tail Shaft Seal Leaking. Tailshaft Bushing is Worn and The Driveshaft slip yoke is worn. A Seal alone will not fix the leak. Estimate for repair $834.00 PLTX. Needs bushing which is not available through ford, have to get tail shaft housing. Needs driveshaft slip yoke and tailshaft seal. Also needs U-Joint for front.

Alright...that's exactly what it says directly from ford.

Rosco · 04-27-2002, 05:43 PM

Ieatcamaros:

from what i've heard before, the T-5 is known to grind into reverse. Try this, I found out for myself about it. Instead of going right into reverse, go into 5th gear and while you still got the clutch in, put it into reverse. Ever since i found this out it hasn't grinded into reverse. Although, if you are going forward...maybe like...3mph or over..it will still grind into reverse. Well at least it does for me.

Ieatcamaros · 04-27-2002, 10:31 PM

Thanks for the suggestion. Mine is so bad that when I am sitting still, and I try to put it in reverse, it gradually slows down. Sometimes this takes 1 min or so. I have tried just jerking it in gear, but that will only make it worse in the long run. It does work though. When it just won't go in gear, I shut the motor off, put in reverse hold pressure on the shifter, then start it back up. That works well too. So far this has been my solution until I find out exactly why it does that.

Rosco · 04-28-2002, 06:00 PM

Anyone have any ideas about what I explained?

Conman · 04-28-2002, 06:20 PM

well that is a different story, not just 800 for a seal
and now it's the tailshaft seal
still not sure about $800. that seal is easy to change and the little bushing that he is referring is also easy to change, don't know why Ford wouldn't be able to get it
from what I can get from the description he is going to put on a whole new tailshaft, that sounds a little fishy unless it is cracked or something and he is also replacing the u-joint and front yoke on the driveshaft
don't forget that the price he is quoting includes labour. if you buy a new transmission you will have to tack on labour charges for install and the u-joint and front yoke will still need replacing

either way it is going to be expensive, sorry about your luck dude

juiceman · 04-28-2002, 09:38 PM

ok , first do the valve gasket yourself. second heres what it would cost for parts roughly. seals 10$ ea., u joint 15$ ea., bushing around 10$ if you find someone to get it for you, all but the bushing are easy to replace. now, the slip yoke is worn real bad? ask them what mic they used to check tolerance. unless something real bad happened like you destroyed the rear of that tranny the yoke wont go bad. steel does not get worn by lead bearings or aluminum so its not likely. and i know the rubber on the seal didnt cut the steel yoke. ford does not rebuild trannys so i would say you should take the tranny from them and bring it to a tranny shop. they will change everything and check it the right way for a good price. ford will screw you every chance they get. a nice tranny shop will do it for 75$ or so. since the tranny is out its easy for them to do. if you have any problems with ford and or the tranny let me know ill help you out.

Ponycar_302 · 04-28-2002, 09:44 PM

Give Hanlon Motorsports a call. They charge $200 (for the teardown and rebuild) plus parts. Their master rebuild kit is only $165. Since you already know what's wrong with the tranny they may be able to give you a better estimate. I think their website is in the links area. Let me know if it's not and I'll give it to you.

JR 302GT · 04-30-2002, 11:01 PM

Man, you could buy a brand new aluminum Motorsport driveshaft for $169 and a complete tranny rebuild kit for the same. If you can't find somebody closer to you to do the tranny work I'll do it for you. I charge $75 for a complete rebuild + parts. If you only want the tail shaft bushing and seal replaced call Hanlon's or check their website for the prices of the parts you need.

I just rebuilt my tranny from nose to tail with Hanon's master rebuild kit and repair video. I've never been happier with my T5 than I am right now.

www.hanlonmotorsports.com

$800+ is out of this world!

John

Ieatcamaros Reverse isn't syncronized, so you normally have to hit another gear before going into reverse. If you have already tried this and you are still getting that horrible grinding noise, then you have something wrong in there! Could have a worn reverse idler gear, 1st-2nd-Reverse slider, or even the counter shaft. I would imagine a worn out reverse shift mechanism could cause it, but I don't have a lot of experience working on these things yet. Those are just my guesses from my experience. Is you clutch adjusted properly?

Ieatcamaros · 05-01-2002, 06:10 PM

JR302GT, Thanks for your input. I have tried putting it in any gear and then going into reverse. It does not grind as bad, but it does grind. It is at it's worst when the car is pointed downhill. I have no idea why this would affect it. I think that suggestion that it might be the 1st, 2nd, reverse slide gear is probably right. If this is worth knowing to determine the problem, the shifter shakes like hell when it is in third gear and the car is moving. Really it only shakes when I am racing on the highway and I am doing like 75 mph. As for the clutch, I am still using the stock cable and quadrant with the self adjusting b.s. I would say that it is adjusted properly because it shifts too smoothly. Thanks to all for your suggestions and input.

Kamaro Killer · 05-01-2002, 06:42 PM

I have the same problem with my tranny. I thought it was the clutch, so I had it replaced. It wasn't that, so I don't know what it could be. I don't know whether I should buy an adjustable clutch cable, rebuild the tranny, or just get a new HD T-5. If anyone else has solved this problem, let me know, because turning the car off everytime I want to reverse is VERY ANNOYING! Thanks!

Rosco · 05-01-2002, 07:08 PM

Alright, well I just took my car down to AAMCO and we looked at it when it was up on the lift. You can see that the tailshaft is leaking. They said worst case $400 plus tax is what I'd pay. The only things that need to be replaced are the U-Joints ($82-both front and rear U-joints and being balanced), Y-yoke, tailshaft bushing and the tailshaft seal. I think what ford was thinking of "fixing" it, was dropping the tranny, removing the whole tailshaft housing and replacing that plus replacing the driveshaft. Well screw them Is what I say. Now that i've seen it I gotta get looking around for someplace that could do it, possibly cheaper then AAMCO at $400. I wish I could do the work by myself but i don't have the time to do it. I'm gonna try Hanlon Motorsports, considering they are only about 2 1/2 hrs away. I'd still rather drive that far then pay $440 at AAMCO. Thanks guys

Jeb_Bush_2000 · 05-01-2002, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Although, if you are going forward...maybe like...3mph or over..it will still grind into reverse. Well at least it does for me.

Mine doesn't grind when the car is standing still, but if it's moving at all, it grinds horribly.

90'5.0 Conv · 05-01-2002, 07:16 PM

Mine grinds horribly when I put it in reverse and I'm moving

LOL Couldn't resist!

Good luck, James

Ieatcamaros · 05-01-2002, 10:00 PM

Kamaro Killer said it best!! My car is not that bad since I replaced the clutch and put new fluid in it, but it was beforehand. That is such an embarrassment when there is a crowd around!!!

04-26-2002, 09:10 AM	#1
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Transmission Question Ok, back to my list of problems. Well as FORD was removing my tranny and replacing everything from the block back to the tranny, the mechanic noticed that the seal on the tranny is leaking. Now, I'm not sure what I'd consider leaking...But he said it is getting wet. They told me it'd be $800 to replace the seal, the Y something or other and something else. My question, I'm thinking of possibly taking it somewhere else to get something like that fixed. My question is, if everyone else is around the same price, would I just be better off buying a new tranny? I'm looking in jegs right now, and I see a rebuild kit for the tranny at like...$250. I'm not positive what's included in the kit, but I'm sure it'd have something to fix the seal. Or I also notice a T-5 World Class Super Duty... You think I'd just be better off getting a new tranny if the price was so high? __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-26-2002, 10:12 AM	#2
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	HOLY **** let me get this straight Ford has the tranny out already, fixing other stuff, while the guy has it all apart anyways he notices the seal leaking and wants an additional $800 for just the seal? did he put it back together anyways and will have to tear it apart again? I am assuming he is talking about the one in the input bearing retainer, it is the only seal in the front of the tranny. It is 4 bolts to take the retainer off and then a simple seal change (that is if the tranny is already out) I bet you could find just that seal for like $20. Actually, I can't remember off the top of my head but you my need to change the bearing to get at the seal but I don't think so, still not worth $800 as for the $250 rebuild kit I'm assuming jeg's would be similar to D&D Performance rebuild kit, it includes seals as well as all bearings, syncros and many other small parts. If you get someone to actually crack the tranny open to replace all the parts that come in the rebuild kit I could see it costing $800 but just for that one seal it can't be that much I don't think I'd drop $1000 for a new tranny just for one seal For some reason the mechanic may think he needs to crack open the tranny to replace that seal but he doesn't hope everything works out for you __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

04-26-2002, 08:24 PM	#3
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Bingo!, a whole new trans costs $800, not a seal, not even a NAVY SEAL!, your getting screwed big time, period! Go elsewhere! __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

04-26-2002, 08:42 PM	#4
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	t-5 tranny I have a T-5 tranny in my 89 GT. I just put a king cobra clutch in it, thinking that the clutch was possibly the problem. When I go to put it in reverse it grinds like all get out. That is most of the time. Every now and then, it doesn't. It has gotten better since I out the clutch in it though. Someone here locally told me that it was the synchronizer causing the problem. I have had others tell me that reverse is not synchronized. Now I do not know a lot about transmissions, but I do understand the basic concenpt. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, it also has brand new fluid in it. __________________ The sig says it all. Last edited by Ieatcamaros; 04-26-2002 at 09:26 PM..

04-27-2002, 05:40 PM	#6
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Sorry.... Ok my apologies for not knowing everything that needs to be replaced for the tranny. On the sheet they gave me it listed the problems. Also Says a seal alone will not fix the problem. Ok ..here's all the stuff..from directly what they said Valve Cover gaskets leaking. Estimate for repair $234.00 PLTX Tech Notes Transmission Tail Shaft Seal Leaking. Tailshaft Bushing is Worn and The Driveshaft slip yoke is worn. A Seal alone will not fix the leak. Estimate for repair $834.00 PLTX. Needs bushing which is not available through ford, have to get tail shaft housing. Needs driveshaft slip yoke and tailshaft seal. Also needs U-Joint for front. Alright...that's exactly what it says directly from ford. __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-27-2002, 12:13 PM	#5
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	thats rediculous $800 for a seal change, if they already have the trans out. one of my buddies has his 97gt at a ford dealership getting a new motor under warranty and they are changing his rear seal in his trans for $30 labor.

04-27-2002, 05:43 PM	#7
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Grinding Into Reverse Ieatcamaros: from what i've heard before, the T-5 is known to grind into reverse. Try this, I found out for myself about it. Instead of going right into reverse, go into 5th gear and while you still got the clutch in, put it into reverse. Ever since i found this out it hasn't grinded into reverse. Although, if you are going forward...maybe like...3mph or over..it will still grind into reverse. Well at least it does for me. __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-27-2002, 10:31 PM	#8
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Rosco: Thanks for the suggestion. Mine is so bad that when I am sitting still, and I try to put it in reverse, it gradually slows down. Sometimes this takes 1 min or so. I have tried just jerking it in gear, but that will only make it worse in the long run. It does work though. When it just won't go in gear, I shut the motor off, put in reverse hold pressure on the shifter, then start it back up. That works well too. So far this has been my solution until I find out exactly why it does that. __________________ The sig says it all.

04-28-2002, 06:00 PM	#9
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Anyone? Anyone have any ideas about what I explained? __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

04-28-2002, 06:20 PM	#10
Conman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 351	well that is a different story, not just 800 for a seal and now it's the tailshaft seal still not sure about $800. that seal is easy to change and the little bushing that he is referring is also easy to change, don't know why Ford wouldn't be able to get it from what I can get from the description he is going to put on a whole new tailshaft, that sounds a little fishy unless it is cracked or something and he is also replacing the u-joint and front yoke on the driveshaft don't forget that the price he is quoting includes labour. if you buy a new transmission you will have to tack on labour charges for install and the u-joint and front yoke will still need replacing either way it is going to be expensive, sorry about your luck dude __________________ '88 lx, Black on Black, check it out here Spent all my money on school, what a dumb mistake I'm old enough to know better, but still too young to care.

04-28-2002, 09:38 PM	#11
juiceman Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: ny Posts: 197	ok , first do the valve gasket yourself. second heres what it would cost for parts roughly. seals 10$ ea., u joint 15$ ea., bushing around 10$ if you find someone to get it for you, all but the bushing are easy to replace. now, the slip yoke is worn real bad? ask them what mic they used to check tolerance. unless something real bad happened like you destroyed the rear of that tranny the yoke wont go bad. steel does not get worn by lead bearings or aluminum so its not likely. and i know the rubber on the seal didnt cut the steel yoke. ford does not rebuild trannys so i would say you should take the tranny from them and bring it to a tranny shop. they will change everything and check it the right way for a good price. ford will screw you every chance they get. a nice tranny shop will do it for 75$ or so. since the tranny is out its easy for them to do. if you have any problems with ford and or the tranny let me know ill help you out.

04-28-2002, 09:44 PM	#12
Ponycar_302 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Pennsylvania Posts: 120	Give Hanlon Motorsports a call. They charge $200 (for the teardown and rebuild) plus parts. Their master rebuild kit is only $165. Since you already know what's wrong with the tranny they may be able to give you a better estimate. I think their website is in the links area. Let me know if it's not and I'll give it to you. __________________ I'm sofa king we tall did.

04-30-2002, 11:01 PM	#13
JR 302GT Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Altoona, PA Posts: 31	Man, you could buy a brand new aluminum Motorsport driveshaft for $169 and a complete tranny rebuild kit for the same. If you can't find somebody closer to you to do the tranny work I'll do it for you. I charge $75 for a complete rebuild + parts. If you only want the tail shaft bushing and seal replaced call Hanlon's or check their website for the prices of the parts you need. I just rebuilt my tranny from nose to tail with Hanon's master rebuild kit and repair video. I've never been happier with my T5 than I am right now. www.hanlonmotorsports.com $800+ is out of this world! John Ieatcamaros Reverse isn't syncronized, so you normally have to hit another gear before going into reverse. If you have already tried this and you are still getting that horrible grinding noise, then you have something wrong in there! Could have a worn reverse idler gear, 1st-2nd-Reverse slider, or even the counter shaft. I would imagine a worn out reverse shift mechanism could cause it, but I don't have a lot of experience working on these things yet. Those are just my guesses from my experience. Is you clutch adjusted properly? __________________ Altoona, PA 1993 GT, full MAC exhaust, 3.73, ported stock heads, E-303, Trick Flow Street intake, 65mm TB, 75mm Bullet, 24lb injectors. MAC upper/lower control arms, Motorsport aluminum driveshaft, BBK subframes welded in, Comp Engineering adjustable drag shocks Best E.T. on wasted slicks: 13.300 @ 102.49 w/1.84 60' No times yet on these new parts: Eibach drag launch kit, Lakewood 90/10 struts.

05-01-2002, 06:10 PM	#14
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	JR302GT, Thanks for your input. I have tried putting it in any gear and then going into reverse. It does not grind as bad, but it does grind. It is at it's worst when the car is pointed downhill. I have no idea why this would affect it. I think that suggestion that it might be the 1st, 2nd, reverse slide gear is probably right. If this is worth knowing to determine the problem, the shifter shakes like hell when it is in third gear and the car is moving. Really it only shakes when I am racing on the highway and I am doing like 75 mph. As for the clutch, I am still using the stock cable and quadrant with the self adjusting b.s. I would say that it is adjusted properly because it shifts too smoothly. Thanks to all for your suggestions and input. __________________ The sig says it all.

05-01-2002, 06:42 PM	#15
Kamaro Killer Mustang Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 528	Damn T-5's I have the same problem with my tranny. I thought it was the clutch, so I had it replaced. It wasn't that, so I don't know what it could be. I don't know whether I should buy an adjustable clutch cable, rebuild the tranny, or just get a new HD T-5. If anyone else has solved this problem, let me know, because turning the car off everytime I want to reverse is VERY ANNOYING! Thanks! __________________ 1993 GT 5.0-My Stang Rice Hater's Club Member 22

05-01-2002, 07:08 PM	#16
Rosco Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Vestal, NY Posts: 307	Much Better Alright, well I just took my car down to AAMCO and we looked at it when it was up on the lift. You can see that the tailshaft is leaking. They said worst case $400 plus tax is what I'd pay. The only things that need to be replaced are the U-Joints ($82-both front and rear U-joints and being balanced), Y-yoke, tailshaft bushing and the tailshaft seal. I think what ford was thinking of "fixing" it, was dropping the tranny, removing the whole tailshaft housing and replacing that plus replacing the driveshaft. Well screw them Is what I say. Now that i've seen it I gotta get looking around for someplace that could do it, possibly cheaper then AAMCO at $400. I wish I could do the work by myself but i don't have the time to do it. I'm gonna try Hanlon Motorsports, considering they are only about 2 1/2 hrs away. I'd still rather drive that far then pay $440 at AAMCO. Thanks guys __________________ 1989 Mustang 5.0 Conversion, Full Saleen ground effects and spoiler, '94 saleen decal set, '93 Saleen Seats, Black interior from a '93, Steeda quadrant, smog pump delete, a/c delete, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, '97 rear differential, aluminum driveshaft, 5 lug conversion, '97 rear disc brakes, southside upper and lower control arms, '99 GT Anniversary wheels, flowtech longtubes, flowtech offroad H-pipe, saleen lowering springs, kyb shocks, caster/camber plates

05-01-2002, 07:16 PM	#18
90'5.0 Conv Long time member in and out Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Albany, Ga Posts: 343	Mine grinds horribly when I put it in reverse and I'm moving LOL Couldn't resist! Good luck, James __________________ 90' Mustang GT Convertible- C4 w/ manual body 4.10's soon to be 3.27's 2 Ch Flowmasters 1/8th ET 9.04

05-01-2002, 10:00 PM	#19
Ieatcamaros Domestic Rice really sucks! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: KY Posts: 973	Kamaro Killer said it best!! My car is not that bad since I replaced the clutch and put new fluid in it, but it was beforehand. That is such an embarrassment when there is a crowd around!!! __________________ The sig says it all.

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