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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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#2 |
dude5l
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 603
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![]() When you tightened your rockers did you check to see if you needed any shims under any of the pedestals? It sounds like you may have a valve hanging open. It could be a bad plug as well, just warm it up and spray water on the header tubes to find which cylinder is colder and try switching that plug out. Check to make sure there is spark to the plug as well. If it isn't a plug or wire my money would be on a valve hanging open.
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Good luck! Brad R. 1992 L.X. 5.0 coupe MODS: A few little bolt ons ![]() New Best time ...11.60 @ 128 mph @ 2000+ ft altitude. Rice Haters Club member #39 Users rides #2542 |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() The rockers are stock, but you think because of the valve job and everything they could still need them? Also I will do the header check, that is awesome, I never thought of that, thanks. How much are shims, and do you think I would have to shim them all since I have no idea which one it would be?
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: germantown MD
Posts: 283
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![]() Here's a test to help isolate where it is coming from. Start the car let it warm up. Adjust the idle a little faster than normal between 1500 and 2000. Unplug wire #1 and observe the drop in rpm. Then replace the wire, then move on to the next one. What you should see is that the rpm drop is about the same for all the cylinders. If you unplug one wire and there is no drop or drop is much less than the others than you know there is a problem in that cylinder.
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85 GT 4bbl roller cam 2 ch. Flowmasters, O/R H-pipe Performer intake and carb milodon water pump, FMS 9mm wires, aluminum driveshaft, king cobra clutch |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Awesome thanks, I will do it as soon as I get home.
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#6 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() You might want to check your plug wire routing. You could have switched wires around when putting the engine together. It happens. Easy enough to check.
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Thanx. After 7 mustangs I have never had this problem before, and I would probably kill myself if I would put the wires on wrong for the first time.
![]() I DO have another prob though, the car when cold or hot starting will not start if while turning over to start it I let the key back too early. Almost like it is flooded. I don't give it gas during starting and the BBK FPR is set to 38lbs. I have been told this could be the coil going bad, but have just put a MSD coil on yesterday and the problem persists. Even after the car has been running a while, it won't start up again unless I let it cool for a while or sit for a few minutes. ANy ideas on that? ![]()
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#8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Ventura, California
Posts: 8,981
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![]() Your last problem could be the TFI module. Your first problem could be in the wires, too. I agree that the heads are the likely problem, but if wires #5 & #6 are touching at all, a missfire/crossfire situation can occur. The better the wire quality, the higher the rpms will be before a problem is detected. Those two cylinders are sequential in the firing order, and are next to each other in the engine, which is one of Fords few designing flaws. Honestly, that problem tends to present itself more as a pinging, or detonation problem, than a backfire problem, but it's still worth noting.
Gppd luck! Take care, -Chris
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() Shawn,
Remember that "hot starting" problem I had? Sounds kinda similar to the second problem you're having. I'd try the TFI first, and if that doesn't solve it, use a good DMM to test the Pickup inside the dizzy. Mine would blink out and come right back to life, both within one second. That was my problem. Just a thought. Dave
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Dave 88 GT - 13.4@106 on street tires (2.2 60ft) My Stang RHC member #75 My stang is FOR SALE!! |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() Thanks Dave but how do i test the pickup? What Is a DMM? The car is running much better now, I haven't done anything to it, go figure. The wires are 9mm and have seperators so hopefully the 5 & 6 wires aren't crossing, I have heard of this often happening too. The car is running good now with no pops but still is slow in reaction when the gas is mashed and sometimes backfires when let off of the gas....
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() Shawn,
I'd Replace the TFI first if the problem persists, and then if that doesn' t fix it, use a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) and while the car's running check the volts to the wires that connect to the TFI. If they suddenly go to 0 and then come back, then the pickup is on the fritz. At least that's how we figured out mine was bad. |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Gallatin, Tn
Posts: 1,326
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![]() awesome thanks,
on the way home for lunch today one of the rockers started knocking on the valvecover. Great just when I thought it couldn't get worse. I will be pulling the valve cover tomorrow to see how bad it is. Thanks for everything everyone! Thanks Dave!
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 536
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![]() you know, that could've been your problem all along. If one of the valves wasn't opening and closing all the way, then it could make it run like crap. Then when the rocker started loosening up, then valve was operating correctly, and now it just loosened the rest of the way.
Check for bent pushrods, but it's most likely that a rocker just came off and the pushrod is just being slung up and hitting your valve cover if the noise is very loud. If it's not too loud, then it's probably just a loose rocker. |
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