Starter problem?

Just me · 12-30-2001, 12:55 PM

Merry Christmas and a happy new year to everyone. I hope that all of you received presents for your stangs. I don't know what to make of this problem I'm having with my starter on my 91' LX. On a cold start my starter always turns over strong. When I drive across town(about 40 miles), and shut off the engine, my starter barely turns over then dies. I have to wait about 10 minutes then it'll turn over slowly till the car starts. My engine temp always stays cool. I don't know if its my selenoid, starter, or maybe my trunk mounted battery is getting too hot. Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be? Thanks.

Just me

Doctor DeBo · 12-30-2001, 02:56 PM

Make sure all your grounds are good,battery to frame and battery to engine block.Trunk mounted batteries are a pain.When its not starting when its warm check the neg battery cable and see if its hot after a start attempt,if it is thats your problem.Had teh same trouble at one time and thats what it was.

dinomite · 12-31-2001, 12:42 PM

My guess is that the starter/solenoid is getting to hot, lots of people have that problem with long tubes. Get some header wrap and wrap the header/start with it, that should fix your problem.

exgmguy · 12-31-2001, 12:51 PM

Yeah, but on Ford's the solonoid is mounted on the fender.

Trunk mount batteries seem to always act weird.

Doctor DeBo · 12-31-2001, 01:09 PM

The solenoid on the fender well is actually a starter relay,the starter itself has a solenoid on top and yes this too could be the problem like dinomite said.

Just me · 01-04-2002, 07:53 PM

Sorry for not responding sooner. I bought a TPS sensor which fixed my idling problem. I have one of those IA bypass thingies and my idle was still erratic here and there.WOW! When I installed the new TPS sensor, my battery voltage gauge went up and the car seems to have more power. I looked closely at the old sensor and noticed the + & - wires were exposed by the plastic casing. Also they were corroded. This was probrably a result from adjusting the sensor with a voltage meter. Anyway, I haven't driven the car yet to see if maybe my car had a lack of charge to the battery. I'm gonna look into all the options and I will post back. Thank you.

Just me
91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint. Going for an electric fan setup with a blower.

UNICORN · 01-05-2002, 07:25 PM

Hey Just Me,
I had the same prob, check your ground that runs from the trans to the firewall, it might be loose. It's kind of a small ribbon wire.
I checked mine and it was really hot after trying to start it too.
My car would start fine when cold, then after it warmed up, the damn thing would crank over real slow and then it wouldn't do anything at all. I finally replaced that small wire with a short 4 guage ground wire from an auto parts store ($5), that fixed it!
anyways- good luck.

joe4speed · 01-06-2002, 02:04 PM

LOL Mine was just old. I went through about three rebuilt ones before I got a High torque mini-starter, and I haven't had ANY problems in about 3 years now! Good luck!

PKRWUD · 01-06-2002, 10:40 PM

FWIW: My NOS 403 used to eat up starters from the heat. I was looking for some heat wrap, when I first heard about Painless Wiring. They had a small kit with a relay and a couple wires that took 15 minutes to install, and guaranteed I'd never have that problem again. I didn't, either. That was 7 or 8 years ago, and I swear by those guys today.

Take care,
-Chris

12-30-2001, 12:55 PM	#1
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Starter problem? Merry Christmas and a happy new year to everyone. I hope that all of you received presents for your stangs. I don't know what to make of this problem I'm having with my starter on my 91' LX. On a cold start my starter always turns over strong. When I drive across town(about 40 miles), and shut off the engine, my starter barely turns over then dies. I have to wait about 10 minutes then it'll turn over slowly till the car starts. My engine temp always stays cool. I don't know if its my selenoid, starter, or maybe my trunk mounted battery is getting too hot. Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be? Thanks. Just me

12-30-2001, 02:56 PM	#2
Doctor DeBo Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Newnan, GA, UnitedStates Posts: 83	Make sure all your grounds are good,battery to frame and battery to engine block.Trunk mounted batteries are a pain.When its not starting when its warm check the neg battery cable and see if its hot after a start attempt,if it is thats your problem.Had teh same trouble at one time and thats what it was. __________________ 92LX 5.0 Hatch,4.10 gears Auburn Pro,Mosser axels,alum drive shaft AOD hi ratio gear set,3200 stall TCI conv,Bassani long tube headers/cats,2 chamber flow masters,2.5inch exhaust,331 stroker,alum GT40 heads ported,Omega 1.7 roller rockers,JE forged pistons,Eagle rods,E cam,GT40 upper/lower intake,70mm mass,73mm Pro M bullet,MSD ignition,Cartech fuel sys w/external Aeromotive fuel pump,30lb injectors,Vortech S trim,Tubular front end,D&D coil overs up front

12-31-2001, 12:42 PM	#3
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	My guess is that the starter/solenoid is getting to hot, lots of people have that problem with long tubes. Get some header wrap and wrap the header/start with it, that should fix your problem. __________________ AIM: dinomite1, roadracestang http://dinomite.net

12-31-2001, 12:51 PM	#4
exgmguy Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Utica, Michigan Posts: 2,631	Yeah, but on Ford's the solonoid is mounted on the fender. Trunk mount batteries seem to always act weird. __________________ 1988 Mustang GT stock bottom 302, C4 10.9 @ 128 with 8 psi of Novi 1000 boost!----STOLEN 1989 Mustang notchback Warmed up 306 with a Procharger.

12-31-2001, 01:09 PM	#5
Doctor DeBo Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Newnan, GA, UnitedStates Posts: 83	The solenoid on the fender well is actually a starter relay,the starter itself has a solenoid on top and yes this too could be the problem like dinomite said. __________________ 92LX 5.0 Hatch,4.10 gears Auburn Pro,Mosser axels,alum drive shaft AOD hi ratio gear set,3200 stall TCI conv,Bassani long tube headers/cats,2 chamber flow masters,2.5inch exhaust,331 stroker,alum GT40 heads ported,Omega 1.7 roller rockers,JE forged pistons,Eagle rods,E cam,GT40 upper/lower intake,70mm mass,73mm Pro M bullet,MSD ignition,Cartech fuel sys w/external Aeromotive fuel pump,30lb injectors,Vortech S trim,Tubular front end,D&D coil overs up front

01-04-2002, 07:53 PM	#6
Just me Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1998 Location: Miami,Florida Posts: 159	Sorry for not responding sooner. I bought a TPS sensor which fixed my idling problem. I have one of those IA bypass thingies and my idle was still erratic here and there.WOW! When I installed the new TPS sensor, my battery voltage gauge went up and the car seems to have more power. I looked closely at the old sensor and noticed the + & - wires were exposed by the plastic casing. Also they were corroded. This was probrably a result from adjusting the sensor with a voltage meter. Anyway, I haven't driven the car yet to see if maybe my car had a lack of charge to the battery. I'm gonna look into all the options and I will post back. Thank you. Just me 91'lx, 302 block, crank pulley, no smog, short belt, Wolverine 1087 cam, 15 deg timing, TFS TW heads, motorsport 1.6 3/8 stud RR, ARP studs, TFS chrome hardened push rods, 24lb inj, BBK 255lph fuel pump, Areomotive billet adj FPR, Performer RPM intake(ported to 75mm), 1" spacer, Motorsport polished tall valve covers(love em), Pro-M 77, Acufab 75mm TB, Ford idle air bypass valve, K&N conical, MSD 6AL and coil, 9mm MS cables, NGK bkr5e 11 plugs@55, motorsport 3 core radiator,160 thermostat, Hurst short throw, motorsport 410 gears, aluminum drive shaft,Kenny brown Subs, Mac 1 3/4"Long tube, custom 3"off road xpipe, 2 chamber Flow Masters, 3 1/2" tailpipes HAL tubular K-member, KYB struts and shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda 2.5" Cowl, Steeda rear wing, black Dupont centari acrylic enamel paint. Going for an electric fan setup with a blower.

01-05-2002, 07:25 PM	#7
UNICORN Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Mesquite Posts: 12	bad ground? Hey Just Me, I had the same prob, check your ground that runs from the trans to the firewall, it might be loose. It's kind of a small ribbon wire. I checked mine and it was really hot after trying to start it too. My car would start fine when cold, then after it warmed up, the damn thing would crank over real slow and then it wouldn't do anything at all. I finally replaced that small wire with a short 4 guage ground wire from an auto parts store ($5), that fixed it! anyways- good luck.

01-06-2002, 02:04 PM	#8
joe4speed He said Member...heh, heh Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Jupiter, Florida U.S.A. Posts: 3,718	LOL Mine was just old. I went through about three rebuilt ones before I got a High torque mini-starter, and I haven't had ANY problems in about 3 years now! Good luck! __________________ *Joe!* 1988 GT, 13.58@101mph Check out my listing! Click here! Or my website:www.joe4speed.com

01-06-2002, 10:40 PM	#9
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	FWIW: My NOS 403 used to eat up starters from the heat. I was looking for some heat wrap, when I first heard about Painless Wiring. They had a small kit with a relay and a couple wires that took 15 minutes to install, and guaranteed I'd never have that problem again. I didn't, either. That was 7 or 8 years ago, and I swear by those guys today. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE! Last edited by PKRWUD; 01-06-2002 at 10:53 PM..

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