BBK 1-5/8" Equal Legnth Shortys, 2.5" Off Road H-Pipe, & Dynomax Super Turbo Cat-Back

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

Would This Sound Good On My Stock Stang???
Do Any Of You Have a Similar Exhaust Combo???
How Do You Like It???

Also, How Do You Change Headers??? Do You Have To Jack The Motor Up?????


Thanks.

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1988 Mustang GT, T-5
3.08's, No Smog Pump (Shorty Belt), Dumps At The End Of Stock H-Pipe, K&N Air Filter (Stock Air Box), Removed Air SilencerMy Stang
My Site (Not Done Yet)

[BowTie Eater 5 Liter]

No One Has This Exhaust Combo, Or Has Heard It???

[429mustang]

I have the same setup on my car, only with MAC equal length headers. I like the way it sounds, it idles pretty beefy and is loud when you get on it. I would probably prefer Flowmaster 40's, they sound a little more hollow, but I'm low on cash. You'll probably have to raise the motor some, the headers fit pretty tight, especially equal lengths.

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86 Mustang GT w/pretty stock 93 5.0 (cam,pulleys,injectors, throttlebody,h-pipe)
Motor to be swapped for a 1970 429 +.030, ported heads, solid roller cam, victor intake, 10.2:1 comp, C-6 trans, 3:73 rearend W/moser axles

[89 Cobra LX]

You do not need to raise the motor when installing headers. You will probably need to insert the passanger's side header from underneath the car. The driver's side drops in from the top.

[Dark_5.0]

You do have to raise the passenger side of the motor to install the bbk equal lenth header on the pasenger side trust me I have them.

Do not put the 1 5/8 inch bbk equal length headers on a stock engine cause they will slow your 1/4 mile down they take away alot of your back presure and you lose torque

but if you are planning on running nitrous like I am or planning on some mods later then they would be ok.


The headers look great and are a quality product the only problem that I have with them is I have about 30 runs on the headers and they are already turning all kinds of rainbow colors . (My car is not street driven)

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88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit 3.73 FMS gears cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs.

[SlowStang2]

I have never heard of headers of this size slowing down anyone. Anyone else have this problem?

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94' Stang GT Convertible --Cobra upper&lower, Mac cold air w/K&N, BBK equal length shorties, BBK offroad H-pipe, American Thunder cat-back, BBK T/B 65mm, 24lb injectors, Pro-77mm MAM, pulleys, aluminum driveshaft, 3.55s, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, adjustable fuel regulator 14.4@100 MPH on G-tech;96 at track. (Sad, i know. i have stock heads)

[Dark_5.0]

Originally posted by SlowStang2:
I have never heard of headers of this size slowing down anyone. Anyone else have this problem?

The thing is that I never ran the car at the track with the stock headers, but I guarantee that my car lost quite a bit of low end torque.

Some of the smartest guys on this board say the same exact thing.



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88 mustang gt convertible bored to 306 BBk equal length headers mac cold air fender kit 3.73 FMS gears cowl hood nitto drag radials ford racing clutch flow masters h-pipe 160* thermostat 16 degrees of timing electric fan off 94' t-bird jacobs electronics cap and wires. Edelbrock 1 1/2 inch drop springs.

[dinomite]

that whole combo will make you loose some torque, and you will be a little slower till you do some mods.

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90LX AOD Convertable: Lakewood control arms, FMS springs.
Best 1/4: 15.277@92.25 (2.27 60')
AIM: dinomite1, roadracestang
dinomite@softhome.net

[90dpscoupe]

the 2.5 h-pipe alone may kill some torque, but when you have longtubes, i dont see how a stang can lose anything, forget the backpressure, if your racing you want to be around 5-6000 rpms, and longtubes will get ya there no problem.

[302 LX Eric]

I have this exact same combo on my coupe and really like it. It's not too loud (read one chamber or even two chamber flows), but just loud enough for me. Nice idle too.

With the equal lenght shorties, you WILL have to jack up the passenger side of the motor. It's really no big deal to do. Just be careful and make sure the car is properly secured on stands, etc.

Good luck,
E

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1991 5.0 LX Coupe - 38,000 miles

13.17 @ 106.14 mph w/ 2.138 60'

[LincoConti87]

Any torque you lose from H pipe and catback should gain you some good horsepower that would be worth it but what really loses torque are those 1 5/8 headers...they are too big for a non modded motor. I have read this on several different boards like stangnet and corral also

[LincoConti87]

Any torque you lose from H pipe and catback should gain you some good horsepower that would be worth it but what really loses torque are those 1 5/8 headers...they are too big for a non modded motor. I have read this on several different boards like stangnet and corral also

[red82gt]

The fiberglass packing in one of my 2 1/4" Dynomax super Turbo mufflers burned up from not having catalytic converters, I'd reccommend a different muffler for the offroad H-pipe.

Again, go with the 1 5/8" headers, no point in having to buy another set of headers if you modify your car further. Dyno tests I've seen have the 1 5/8" headers pick up from 4000 on which is where you'll be if you need to go fast, you may have 5-10 less lbs/ft at 2500 but are you really concerned?

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GT-40 heads (ported, polished, + milled), B303 cam, 1.7rr's, JE pistons, Offy intake, Carter AFB 625cfm carb, Flowtech 1 5/8" shortys, Flowtech X-pipe, MAC Flowpath exhaust, MAC pulleys, 373's, subframes, Eibachs+Tokicos, B&M ripper, FMS Clutch, Zoom Quadrant+cable, 17" CSA Ultra rims, 235/45ZR17 Yokohama AVS S4's, MSD 6A ignition+coil, FMS 9mm wires, Carbed, Naturally Aspirated, and Nasty!

[Unit 5302]

I'll bite on explaining this again.

Here is the deal. If you take a look at the size of the primary's on the 1 5/8" headers, what you'll find is they are MUCH larger than the exhuast ports on the stock head. What this does for you is simple. It "tunes" the exhaust flow. In other words, it actually helps suck exhuast right out of the engine due to the difference in pressure on each side of the connection between the head and header. When the headers tune the exhaust flow on a stock engine what happens is simple. It pulls air out that would normally be stuck for the compression cycle, and therefore, it reduces cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure is one of the MAJOR factors in torque production. At higher rpms the headers can be more efficient due to the need for pulling waste gases out allowing for more peak air flow.

Unfortunately, the stock engine makes max hp at a rated 4200rpm, and max torque significantly below that. While the tests may indicate a gain of 10hp, the gain is recorded at 5500rpms, or past where you would normally shift a stock 5.0. Usually those test cars have some minor mods as well, allowing them to use the headers better, and sometimes major mods. Around town, a noticable drop in torque and low rpm drivability usually surfaces, the result of low cylinder pressure. When racing the meat of the powerband is very similar, usually with less hp and torque at and below peak hp production, and a little higher above peak hp. Adding a low restriction h pipe helps the header work more efficiently, but it's still a good mod, since that's where the real exhaust restriction is. Doing your entire exhaust system like you plan will probably help you a little, just because you'll gain a real 20hp from the H pipe. Without the H-pipe, slapping 1 5/8" headers on isn't gonna help at all. The header will drop your cylinder pressure, and the H pipe will slow and restrict the flow down the line. You'll wind up making less average hp in the meat of the powerband. The catback exhaust won't really do a whole lot on it's own either.

Making the headers equal length significantly increases the exhaust "scavenging" or "tuning" and will hurt low rpm torque significantly on a stock 5.0.

Long tubes are an exception to the rule. They are advanced in design. The thing that they offer that the shorties cannot is the ability to fully tune the exhaust. The longer and better developed collector creates backpressure on the cylinder that is on a compression stroke to hold the exhaust in the head, and on the exhaust stroke it does an excellent job of scavenging to allow for more max hp. What you wind up with is better torque, and better hp. A very worthwhile modification, especially down the road. The drawbacks are obvious, installation, expense, and access to the crap underneath the car.

[Yan88gt]

A simple mods that can help is to hollow the cats out of your stock H-pipe. It will make less restriction and the 2 1/4 tube will not rob you low end torque

[Stang Runner]

Hey I have 1 5/8 unEqual Legnth Shortys, 2.5" x-pipe, edelbrock Rpms You can hear it at www.computerconquest.com and then go to The mustang and look for the sound there!

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14.62@96.9 Engine: Steal Mounts, Under drive pulleys, K&N, Home ported Lower Intake, No power steering, No A/C
Drive Train: 3.55, World Class T-5, Lakewood Bell housing, Adjustable Clutch Cable, AL Driveshaft
Suspension: MAC Control Arms, Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Springs, Bilstein Shocks
Exhaust: 1 5/8 UN-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\back
Cooling: 3 Core Radiator