best subframe connectors

GhettoPop · 02-24-2003, 11:26 AM

I'm thinkin of pickin up weld-on subframes, any preference on which ones? Maxium motorsports, kenny brown, etc. Was lookin at MM full length, any known installation problems?

squid · 02-24-2003, 12:22 PM

I have the Kenny Browns and really like them I think either KB's or MM's will work great! You will like what they do for your car!

ChunkFunky · 02-24-2003, 01:19 PM

Is it a noticable FEEL? You can find alot of them on EBAY for pretty cheap... when it all comes down to it.. they are just tubular steel braces... I cant imagine youd get alot for paying alot? Anyone used some of the cheaper ones?
-as

GodStang · 02-24-2003, 04:15 PM

Those ebay ones are crap. You need to get one that has cross braces. I have the Kenny Brown and LOVE THEM!!

squid · 02-24-2003, 05:19 PM

I agree completely with Godstang. You want some that at least have the seat brace. Yes you can feel a differance, I noticed it when I first sat down in the car after they were welded in. You wont be sorry! Car hooks better also.

MEDIK418 · 02-25-2003, 08:03 PM

You may not have access to a steel supply house but if you do, you can do the car for less than 12 bucks. I went to one of the multitude of steel supply houses in Amarillo and bought 30 feet of 1X2 inch rectangular tubing, heavy walled and built two sets for about 20 bucks. Depending where you buy the stuff it runs close to a dollar a foot. If you're going to have them welded in anyway, you can save a ton doing it this way. The seat brackets aren't anything fancy, just angle rion welded in the right place. Just a thought.

GodStang · 02-27-2003, 11:11 AM

I can not say if I fealt a difference. I lowered my car the same time I put mine on. So ya I felt a huge diiference but what was from the springs and what was from the Subframes.

ChunkFunky · 02-27-2003, 11:34 AM

It seems like the SUBFRAME are more of a preventative maintenance... keeps your car from twisting and maybe causing some frame damage.... though I suppose it must also help keep the weight evened out between the rear wheels when launching.. I suppose the nature of the car is to torque to one side... it seems like every picture of a mustang doing wheelies has one side higher then the other
-as

MEDIK418 · 02-27-2003, 04:14 PM

I promise you will be able to tell a difference in the way the car drives as soon as you back out of the driveway. No more creaks and groans from frame flex, a more solidly planted feeling as well.
These and gears, in my opinion, are the two things to start with on any Fox body.

GhettoPop · 02-27-2003, 04:28 PM

Well, its safe to say that welded subframes are a must-have, so what brands are preferred? Anyone running MM or FMS?

GodStang · 02-27-2003, 04:56 PM

I gots to go with Kenny Brown Super subs. Thats what I got 3 thumbs up

89stanger · 02-28-2003, 12:27 AM

Just wondering- won't bolt-ons be effective if sturdy enough?

VeNuM · 02-28-2003, 10:52 AM

Bolt in subframe's are terrible, if you have them, get them welded. The bolt holes stretch and basically don't hold together to well from chassis stress. Get a nice set of weld on ones and you don't have to worry about your chassis twisting as much. ~Brian

GodStang · 02-28-2003, 11:56 AM

I agree. My kenny brown's are bolted and then welded in place. Make sure what ever you do weld them.

02-24-2003, 11:26 AM	#1
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	best subframe connectors I'm thinkin of pickin up weld-on subframes, any preference on which ones? Maxium motorsports, kenny brown, etc. Was lookin at MM full length, any known installation problems?

02-24-2003, 12:22 PM	#2
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	I have the Kenny Browns and really like them I think either KB's or MM's will work great! You will like what they do for your car! __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

02-24-2003, 01:19 PM	#3
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	Is it a noticable FEEL? You can find alot of them on EBAY for pretty cheap... when it all comes down to it.. they are just tubular steel braces... I cant imagine youd get alot for paying alot? Anyone used some of the cheaper ones? -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

02-24-2003, 04:15 PM	#4
GodStang College Stanger Join Date: May 1999 Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa Posts: 1,097	Those ebay ones are crap. You need to get one that has cross braces. I have the Kenny Brown and LOVE THEM!! __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue Cobra

02-24-2003, 05:19 PM	#5
squid Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Dayton, OHIO Posts: 73	I agree completely with Godstang. You want some that at least have the seat brace. Yes you can feel a differance, I noticed it when I first sat down in the car after they were welded in. You wont be sorry! Car hooks better also. __________________ 93'GT 5spd. Underdrives, FMS clutch, adjustable quadrant,Flowmasters, Kenny Brown subframe connectors, 3.73 gears, Steeda Tri-Ax. JBA shorties, BBK h-pipe. More to come.

02-25-2003, 08:03 PM	#6
MEDIK418 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA Posts: 780	You may not have access to a steel supply house but if you do, you can do the car for less than 12 bucks. I went to one of the multitude of steel supply houses in Amarillo and bought 30 feet of 1X2 inch rectangular tubing, heavy walled and built two sets for about 20 bucks. Depending where you buy the stuff it runs close to a dollar a foot. If you're going to have them welded in anyway, you can save a ton doing it this way. The seat brackets aren't anything fancy, just angle rion welded in the right place. Just a thought. __________________ 1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.

02-27-2003, 11:11 AM	#7
GodStang College Stanger Join Date: May 1999 Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa Posts: 1,097	I can not say if I fealt a difference. I lowered my car the same time I put mine on. So ya I felt a huge diiference but what was from the springs and what was from the Subframes. __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue Cobra

02-27-2003, 11:34 AM	#8
ChunkFunky Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Tustin, CA Posts: 465	It seems like the SUBFRAME are more of a preventative maintenance... keeps your car from twisting and maybe causing some frame damage.... though I suppose it must also help keep the weight evened out between the rear wheels when launching.. I suppose the nature of the car is to torque to one side... it seems like every picture of a mustang doing wheelies has one side higher then the other -as __________________ '89 GT Convertible: TFS TW Heads, TFS Street Intake, TFS Stage 1 Cam, FMS 1.6 RRs, 24# Injectors, Pro-M 75mm MAF, No Name CAI, 3.73s, O/R H-Pipe, FlowMasters, AOD w/ Trans-Go Shift Kit

02-27-2003, 04:14 PM	#9
MEDIK418 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Amarillo, Texas, USA Posts: 780	I promise you will be able to tell a difference in the way the car drives as soon as you back out of the driveway. No more creaks and groans from frame flex, a more solidly planted feeling as well. These and gears, in my opinion, are the two things to start with on any Fox body. __________________ 1986 four-eyed LX coupe, 358 Cleveland, Tremec TKO600/centerforce clutch, dish cut Probe forged pistons, comp cams hyd.roller cam, .579/.588@224/230, Edel.performer, 670 holley street avenger, CPR custom built long tubes, ported and polished 4bbl heads, manley valves, beehive springs, MSD peo-billet dist/MSD6AL, fluidamper, 5 lug conv. with 17x8 bullits there's more but it's still not finished yet. Oh, and the oldest boy is turning his 89 GT into a FFR cobra this next summer.

02-27-2003, 04:28 PM	#10
GhettoPop Gimme a Drink! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: NYC Posts: 694	Well, its safe to say that welded subframes are a must-have, so what brands are preferred? Anyone running MM or FMS?

02-27-2003, 04:56 PM	#11
GodStang College Stanger Join Date: May 1999 Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa Posts: 1,097	I gots to go with Kenny Brown Super subs. Thats what I got 3 thumbs up __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue Cobra

02-28-2003, 12:27 AM	#12
89stanger Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Posts: 15	Just wondering- won't bolt-ons be effective if sturdy enough?

02-28-2003, 10:52 AM	#13
VeNuM Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Downers Grove, IL Posts: 464	Bolt in subframe's are terrible, if you have them, get them welded. The bolt holes stretch and basically don't hold together to well from chassis stress. Get a nice set of weld on ones and you don't have to worry about your chassis twisting as much. ~Brian __________________ 1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59

02-28-2003, 11:56 AM	#14
GodStang College Stanger Join Date: May 1999 Location: Aiken,south carolina, usa Posts: 1,097	I agree. My kenny brown's are bolted and then welded in place. Make sure what ever you do weld them. __________________ 2003 Sonic Blue Cobra

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