bizzare problem part II
 

Well, I installed that EGR eliminator kit with the EGR simulator and I thought it was fixed. The car was running GREAT for 2 days then back to its same old crappy self. When I changed the O2 sensors a few weeks ago, the car was running much better, then two days later, back to running like crap.

I have checked everything! I am at a dead end. The only thing I can think of is it might be the computer. Its the only thing I can think of that would cuase the engine to revert back to the "crappy mode" after a couple of days. A few months ago I installed an new alternator that is OE on 94 stangs (130 amp). The voltage regulator was defective and peged the volt meter for about 1/2 hour. I had to take the output wire of of the starter coil cuase it was red hot. Would that be enough to fry my computer? This problem only started a few weeks ago. Is there any way to test my computer? My friend has a 90 GT, can I swap his computer into my car to see if it runs better? I am at a dead end. PLEASE HELP ME!

For more info on my problem, please read Bizzare problem part I: http://forums.mustangworks.com/showt...threadid=25708

anyone please?

It really sounds like a heat problem?
Being an old electronics guy in the Army my best friend for thermal problems was a hair dryer. Get the car completely up to temp. then start pointing it at the electrically controlled componets one at a time and see if you can put it in the "crappy mode" with the heat gun ? Spend some time around the computer, they are filled with componets that can become heat sensitive. But don't get anything insanely hot ! Just enough to simulate a fully hot motor on a hot day. It may not work but at least it won't cost you anything ? Well ... unless you don't have a hair dryer ?:confused:

It runs just as bad when it has been sitting overnight, even worse.
It runs bad all the time now. Even if I disconect the battery for 30 mins.

Did you follow the correct instructions when installing the 3G alternator? (ie the thicker guage wire) ?

Have you checked the plugs and the tail pipe to see if you're running excessively rich or lean ? What about the error codes ?

It may be time to dig out the old wallet and take it to a good mechanic or a Ford dealer and let them hook up all those fancy dancy electronic gizmos ? Let somebody else get the headache :confused:

hotroddin: please read the other thread.

My uncle runs a sunoco station and is an ASE-certified master technician. I thought someone that specialized in mustangs might know what my problem is. I hooked it up to a $5,000 snap on scanner and got the codes (accually it tells you exactly what is wrong, there are no "codes"). All of the codes have been taken care of. there are no codes anymore but it still runs like sh*t.

The problem started happening right after my A/C released almost all of the gas (previous owner had long tubes installed and they were touching the A/C line). That was the first time I used the A/C. But I don't see how it could be related.

and I didn't install the larger wire, Ford didn't recomend messing with the wire harness, but I know they are wrong cuase I've seen many articles now. They alternator was working fine for a few weeks until the defective regulator finally gave up and sent 20+ volts to the system for 20 mins. This happened during spring break. The car has been running fine up until a few weeks ago.

The plugs look slightly rich (dark grey). The dyno run showed that the Hydorcarbons were between 1600-2000 ppm!!! (the limit is 3.2 and the last test I was at .81 ppm!!)

I would try swapping in your friends ECM. There is an excellent chance that yours has been damaged.

:cool:

Take care,
~Chris