Hurst Roll Control

OneBad91 · 08-08-2002, 04:39 PM

How do i install a hurst roll control in a 91 Lx. The instructions do not include a drawing of my brake system. I would like to know what anyone that installed this on your car how you set it up.

blown5.5 · 08-08-2002, 05:59 PM

It's not as straight forward as you would think, but it's not to difficult either. You need to do a bit of extra plumbing as each of the two pistons in the master cylinder feeds one front and one rear. It's been a while since I did it (last season) so I'll have to dig up the schematics. Might even be able to get you a picture or too. If you plan on using their shift handle with thumb button, do yourself a favor. Get a grommet kit from your local hardware store and put a small grommet in the top of the boot, then pass the wires through the grommet. If you make the two wires of unequal length and put bullit connectors on them you can pull them through the grommet and then unscrew the handle real easy when you need to do repairs....

OneBad91 · 08-08-2002, 08:01 PM

I heard that someone plugged the third line from the master cylinder and then "T" the line that goes to the right front after the proportioning block or whatever that thing is. I was planning using my own swtich or a shirt knob with the button.

blown5.5 · 08-09-2002, 08:50 AM

Plug the port on the bottom rear of the master cylinder. This line becomes teed with the line from the bottom front of the proportioning block. Fabricate a new line to connect the Tee to the bottom front port of the proportioning block. BTW that grommet trick works well whatever shift knob you use and keeps the wires from being chewed up between the boot and the shifter…..

08-08-2002, 04:39 PM	#1
OneBad91 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: York, PA Posts: 58	Hurst Roll Control How do i install a hurst roll control in a 91 Lx. The instructions do not include a drawing of my brake system. I would like to know what anyone that installed this on your car how you set it up. __________________ 90 lx notchback:4cyl to 5.0 conversion, Mac 1 3/4 long tube headers, 3 inch pro chamber, al. radiatior, 3:73 gears, underdrive pulleys, GT-40 intake with 1" spacer, cold air intake, electric fan, pro 5.0 shifter, smog pump delete, a/c delete, windage tray, flowmasters, turn downs, subframe connectors, 5-lug conversion. Pro Tru forged pistions, Roush 200 heads, z303 cam, 30# injectors, 70 mm t-body, 255 lph fuel pump, 1.6 roller rockers, 7 qt. pan, high volume oil pump, fuel pressure regulator, MSD 6AL, MSD blaster coil, MSD pro billet distributer, 75mm mass air, and a hell of alot of money.

08-08-2002, 08:01 PM	#3
OneBad91 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: York, PA Posts: 58	I heard that someone plugged the third line from the master cylinder and then "T" the line that goes to the right front after the proportioning block or whatever that thing is. I was planning using my own swtich or a shirt knob with the button. __________________ 90 lx notchback:4cyl to 5.0 conversion, Mac 1 3/4 long tube headers, 3 inch pro chamber, al. radiatior, 3:73 gears, underdrive pulleys, GT-40 intake with 1" spacer, cold air intake, electric fan, pro 5.0 shifter, smog pump delete, a/c delete, windage tray, flowmasters, turn downs, subframe connectors, 5-lug conversion. Pro Tru forged pistions, Roush 200 heads, z303 cam, 30# injectors, 70 mm t-body, 255 lph fuel pump, 1.6 roller rockers, 7 qt. pan, high volume oil pump, fuel pressure regulator, MSD 6AL, MSD blaster coil, MSD pro billet distributer, 75mm mass air, and a hell of alot of money.

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08-08-2002, 05:59 PM	#2
blown5.5 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Philly Suburbs, PA Posts: 14	It's not as straight forward as you would think, but it's not to difficult either. You need to do a bit of extra plumbing as each of the two pistons in the master cylinder feeds one front and one rear. It's been a while since I did it (last season) so I'll have to dig up the schematics. Might even be able to get you a picture or too. If you plan on using their shift handle with thumb button, do yourself a favor. Get a grommet kit from your local hardware store and put a small grommet in the top of the boot, then pass the wires through the grommet. If you make the two wires of unequal length and put bullit connectors on them you can pull them through the grommet and then unscrew the handle real easy when you need to do repairs....