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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() I just got done redoing the front disc brakes on my mustang, i replaced everything and now the rotor is catching the brake pads, its scrapiing up against them.....i thought about using a hammer and block of wood and hammering it down a bit but thought i would check here first.....any ideas would be appreciated
Also i redid the back brakes and the drums wont fit on,any ideas w/ that, they are catching on the shoes and wont fit over them James |
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#2 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() Im a bit confused.
#1 The pads are suppose to touch the rotor. What are you going to hammer on? #2 Did you turn the drums? Or back off the adjuster?
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Frank |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: cent.wis
Posts: 203
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![]() Are you saying that you can't get the calipers back on with the new pads in place?
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() no, the caliper pads are touching the discs when i dont have the brakes on, like when my foot is not on the pedal they are already touching, so the discs dont spend w/o friction
and yes i had the drums turned and machined James |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() i was told i could put a block of wood in front of the pad and bang on the pad to reduce its size a bit
James |
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#6 |
N-V-ME
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SOUTHFIELD,MICHIGAN
Posts: 155
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![]() Never Bang On Something Thats Goning To Stop YOUR Stang, You Should Be Able To Turn Your Front Rotors With Your Finger, If Not Take The Pads Back Off An Press The Caliper Piston All The Way In On Both Sides With The Master Cylinder Cap Of, Then Re Place Your Pads Then Put The Top Back On The Master Cylinder Then Pump Your Brakes Till There Hard Then Try Turning Your Rotors With Your Finger Agian That Should Fix Your Front Brakes,........as For Your Back Brakes , Theres A Bar At The Lower Section Of Your Rear Brake That Pushs The Shoes Apart Loosen That Screw Untill The Drums Fit On A Little Snug, Do This For Both Sides Then Test Drive If The Back Brakes Lock Up Or Slide When You Stop Hard Then They Need To Be Loosened A Little More...........good Luck
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88' LX MUSTANG: LINCOLN ROTORS , AIR SUSPENSION FRONT AND REAR, SUBFRAMES, ROLL CAGE, 92' BLOCK, MSD 6AL, ACCEL 8.8 WIRES, ACCEL COIL, EDELBROCK F4B INTAKE (PORTED),2 IN. 4 HOLE SPACERS, HOLLEY 600 CARB.,HOLLEY BLUE FUEL PUMP AN REGULATOR, E 303 (.498 IN. 220 DUR.) CAM, (.535 IN. OF LIFT W/ 1.72 SCORPIN ROLLER ROCKERS), PORTED E7'S, FLOWTECH 1 5/8 LONG TUBE HEADERS, 2 1/2 IN. H PIPE, 2 CHAMBER FLOWMASTERS WITH 3 IN.DUMPS, T-5, 3.73 GEARS, 5 LUG AEROSTAR AXELS, 245-45-17 96' COBRA WHEELS |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Skiatook, Oklahoma
Posts: 193
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![]() You can do it like 83 GT said, and thats fine. Put a rag around the master cylinder to catch any brake fluid that might run out of the master cylinder when you push the cailper pistons back in. You can use a good c-clamp or big pair of Channel Locks to do this. I prefer to break the bleeder screws loose on the caliper's and push the brake fluid out in to a container down below. You will have to have someone help you bleed the brakes when you are done. This gets newer brake fluid in the caliper and you dont have to worry about getting it allover the master cylinder and brake booster ( brake fluid will eat up paint in a bad way). On the back brakes just loosen the automatic brake adjuster off until you can get the drum to go back on. Then adjust both sides with a slight amount of drag on both sides, (evenly) another thing thatll help you on back brakes, (after you get the drum back on) take a rubber mallet hammer and tap (not hit) around the drum. This will help allign the shoes to the newly machined drums. Sometimes your front rotors will be kinda hard to turn with new pads and a freashly turned drum. Drive the car and break in the pads and recheck them if your worried about them. If there still very hard to turn then check your caliper piston for sticking or check the brake hose for internal break down and colapsing and not letting the brake fluid return to the master cylinder. Just my 2 cnets hope this helps!
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() alright so if what your saying is correct my front brakes are fine, because i can turn them w/ my hands, the brake pads just touch a little bit
and thanks for everything else, i will prolly get out there tomorrow night and let you know how it goes James |
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#9 | |
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Posts: n/a
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#10 |
Factoy Five Roadster
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Sevier Co,Tennessee
Posts: 1,681
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![]() Take the block of wood and hammer to the person that told you to do that. Reduce his size.
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Frank |
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#11 | |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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#12 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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lol, im sorry about all these dumb questions....but i just got this 88 gt last fall because i wanted to get into cars and this is my first time ever working on one, i am trying to learn and do as much as i can by myself.....thanks again for all the help fellas, its much appreciated James |
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() alright my front brakes are finally on and ready, but now once again i am having problem w/ the rears, i got the passenger side drum mounted but it is barely on, it is stuck on there and i am making some progress by lightly hammering it on, is it supposed to be extremely snug like this, where i have to resort to hammering around the outside of the drum to get it on, or is there supposed to be a bit of room?
Also i saw someone mentioned an automatic brake adjuster, is that the screw thing on the bottom w/ the teeth and threads.....i tried adjusting this back and forth but it didnt help, i still couldnt get the drum on. James |
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#14 |
Domestic Rice really sucks!
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: KY
Posts: 973
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![]() You'll probably need to let your wheel cylinders in a little. And you may have to take the shoes back off to do this easier. You can put a c-clamp on the cylinder ends. Just snug it for now. Then slowly crack the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder while tightening the clamp. This would be similar to pushing the piston back in on the front calipers. You don't want to push in too much, so be careful. Once you get it pushed in some, tighten the bleeder screw and take the clamp off. The screw thing at the bottom with the teeth on it is the adjuster. You need to run this all the way in and make your way outward with it, taking the drum on and off a few times checking the fit. You should not have to hammer on the drum to get it on. Not because it needs to be that tight. But because it is hard to get it on straight. Just like tying to get a girl's tight pants off, work one side and then the other. LOL. Hope this helps you out.
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#15 |
N-V-ME
Join Date: May 2005
Location: SOUTHFIELD,MICHIGAN
Posts: 155
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![]() take the drums off an lossen the adjuster screw then try an see if it fits if not should be able to put them on with on problem should rub a little
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88' LX MUSTANG: LINCOLN ROTORS , AIR SUSPENSION FRONT AND REAR, SUBFRAMES, ROLL CAGE, 92' BLOCK, MSD 6AL, ACCEL 8.8 WIRES, ACCEL COIL, EDELBROCK F4B INTAKE (PORTED),2 IN. 4 HOLE SPACERS, HOLLEY 600 CARB.,HOLLEY BLUE FUEL PUMP AN REGULATOR, E 303 (.498 IN. 220 DUR.) CAM, (.535 IN. OF LIFT W/ 1.72 SCORPIN ROLLER ROCKERS), PORTED E7'S, FLOWTECH 1 5/8 LONG TUBE HEADERS, 2 1/2 IN. H PIPE, 2 CHAMBER FLOWMASTERS WITH 3 IN.DUMPS, T-5, 3.73 GEARS, 5 LUG AEROSTAR AXELS, 245-45-17 96' COBRA WHEELS |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() alright, i have spent the last week trying to figure out these rear brakes, and nothing seems to work.......i have messed w/ the automatic adjuster and pulled it all the way out and in, and nothing
is there ne thing else that could be going wrong? The drums almost fit on, they are just a bit too small and hit the pads any more help would be appreciated James |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 992
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![]() I've been reading your posts here.
You are getting great advice and correct advice on your brake problems. Now your rear brake problem. First, do you have the shoes, drums brakes call them "Shoes", on correctly?? Primary, short shoe, to the front?? 2] Wheel cylinders completly retracted?? 3] Hold down springs on correctly?? 4] Self adjuster on the rear shoe with the cable and small spring installed?? 5] Adjuster turned all the way in?? 6] Brake shoes centered on backing plate, on top of the rub spots on the backing plates. Lub these too. 7] Parking brake released fully and installed on rear shoe correctly?? 8] If all the above are correct the drum should slip on If it doesn't check that all the "forked" parts of the hardware is seated in their proper place on the shoes. The adjuster "forked ends" are stuck and riding up on the shoe. If all looks good, next where did you buy the shoes?? Are they relined or new?? Had car at my shop Friday from a young guy who tried to do his own rear brakes, like you. But, couldn't get the drums on, again like you. He had all new parts. He brought car to be to straighten out. Besides the usual amature mistakes we found the brake shoes were bent, not from him anything he did. He bought the brakes as relines, which you hardly see anymore at Advance Discount Auto Parts. We use Wagner and they fit right on, no hitch. Also, between what he paid for relines and what the new Wagners cost was only $10. Good luck, keep posted how you're making out.
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"Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() alright man, i may get out there tonight or tomorrow morning........i appreciate the help and i will check all those things, and to answer your question everything i bought was brand new...i bought shoes, had the drums machined, bought new wheel cylinders and new hardware kits so all the springs are new and everything
BTW, when u talk about making sure cylinders are all the way retracted, what do u mean, i bought brand new wheel cylinders so does that affect it in ne way Also on both sides the brake shoes dont fit completely on, like at the top one shoe is perfect but the other is a little off so i can press down on it a bit and it will spring back and forth, also they are not centered on the backing plate, they are a little more towards the front of the car...what is the problem here if there is any Thanks for the help James |
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 992
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![]() Glad to hear you purchased quality parts.
The shoe assembly should be centered. Did you check the new wheel cylinders to the old ones. Are they the same size, length?? When you say the shoes at the top spring back. Are you talking about the top of the shoe where the half circle fits against the top center post, above the wheel cylinder?? If you are, both the front [primary] and the rear[secondary] shoes should be snug against the post. If one or both of them aren't, there is your problem. If the secondary shoe, rear, is away from the post it is usually caused by the parking brake being partial on or too tight. Later.....
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"Support our Troops" Dave 1968 Cougar 2004 Thunderbird 2007 F150 Harley-Davidson, SuperCrew 1986 LTD 1997 Ranger 1992 Honda Civic |
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 33
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![]() alright, on the drivers side, the closest shoe (small shoe) is off the center pole thing at the half circle a bit
what could cause this problem James |
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