Car broke down today!

Five0 · 03-27-2002, 10:15 PM

Today on the way home from work it quit running so we pulled it apart and found that the metal pic on the camshaft broke off and the cam bolt broke off in the cam.

I can probably fix the problem pretty cheap but was thinking about going to a solid flat tappet cam.

What do you think I should do?
Go with a bigger solid flat tappet cam or stay with the hydraulic roller cam.

The cam I have now is a 224/230 w/.512 lift and 112 lobe separation.

I also have a 347 stroker, 3.55 gears, and c-4 w/3400 rpm stall.

Oldschoolpony · 03-28-2002, 01:46 AM

I'd find out why it broke, before i went putting a new cam in it. Did something seize? Takes alot of pressure to shear off the top gear from the cam., If thats what you're saying happened

WADS56 · 03-28-2002, 03:47 AM

I would find out why it broke to.
As far as a solid flat tappet cam... I would stay with the hydrolic roller setup you have now. If you want to go to a mechanical setup I would go to a solid roller. There is allot of performance to gain with one, also more money and maintenance.

PKRWUD · 03-28-2002, 11:58 AM

Oh ye with the best birthday on Earth, stick with a roller. Hyd or solid is up to you. Could you be a little more descriptive with what broke? I'm not familiar with the camshafts metal pic.

Take care,
-Chris

Five0 · 03-28-2002, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by PKRWUD
Oh ye with the best birthday on Earth, stick with a roller. Hyd or solid is up to you. Could you be a little more descriptive with what broke? I'm not familiar with the camshafts metal pic.

Take care,
-Chris

Hehehe

oops that was supposed to be pin.

The little pin on the outside of the camshaft that aligns the timing chain gear.

sn95gt19 · 03-28-2002, 11:16 PM

you said that you were on your way home from work, so im taking it you drive the car often, the only downfalls that i have heard about a solid roller cam are that you will have to adjust the rocker arms quite a bit more than the hydraulic, also theres a better chance of something breaking with a solid cam. either way i would definitely go with the roller cam. before i did anything i would check why it sheared off the pin though.

Five0 · 03-28-2002, 11:37 PM

Yea I will be looking into that and I am buying a convt 4 cyl mustang tomorrow as a daily driver, I am tired of driving that car everyday with the c-4. The c-4 took all the fun out of driving it everyday as a street car and the gas mileage is killing me. $75 dollars a week in gas.

Hozer 88GTConv · 03-29-2002, 09:08 PM

Is your car at Tony's now? I thought I saw it today. He is helping me with my ignition issue. Looks like the TFI module.

Five0 · 03-29-2002, 10:40 PM

Yes, I will be up there to get it running soon.
I just bought a new 92 mustang 4cyl to get me around and for the gas mileage.

03-27-2002, 10:15 PM	#1
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	Car broke down today! Today on the way home from work it quit running so we pulled it apart and found that the metal pic on the camshaft broke off and the cam bolt broke off in the cam. I can probably fix the problem pretty cheap but was thinking about going to a solid flat tappet cam. What do you think I should do? Go with a bigger solid flat tappet cam or stay with the hydraulic roller cam. The cam I have now is a 224/230 w/.512 lift and 112 lobe separation. I also have a 347 stroker, 3.55 gears, and c-4 w/3400 rpm stall. __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier.

03-28-2002, 01:46 AM	#2
Oldschoolpony Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gainsville,Fl Posts: 229	First thing first. I'd find out why it broke, before i went putting a new cam in it. Did something seize? Takes alot of pressure to shear off the top gear from the cam., If thats what you're saying happened __________________ http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1546

03-28-2002, 03:47 AM	#3
WADS56 gear banger Join Date: Aug 2000 Location: CHICAGO Posts: 1,144	I would find out why it broke to. As far as a solid flat tappet cam... I would stay with the hydrolic roller setup you have now. If you want to go to a mechanical setup I would go to a solid roller. There is allot of performance to gain with one, also more money and maintenance. __________________ 79 Hatch: NA 347, Stage 2 Canfield Heads, Victor JR. Intake, Blueprinted Holley 750 HP, Solid Roller Cam, Shooting for 10's on motor 93 LX: Tremec, dual friction clutch, fms flywheel, Hedman shorties, O/R H-pipe Ricer hater's club member #49 Last edited by WADS56; 03-28-2002 at 05:19 AM..

03-28-2002, 11:58 AM	#4
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Oh ye with the best birthday on Earth, stick with a roller. Hyd or solid is up to you. Could you be a little more descriptive with what broke? I'm not familiar with the camshafts metal pic. Take care, -Chris __________________ Webmaster: Rice Haters Club Jim Porter Racing Peckerwoods Pit Stop Support Your Local RED & WHITE!

03-28-2002, 11:37 PM	#7
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	Yea I will be looking into that and I am buying a convt 4 cyl mustang tomorrow as a daily driver, I am tired of driving that car everyday with the c-4. The c-4 took all the fun out of driving it everyday as a street car and the gas mileage is killing me. $75 dollars a week in gas. __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier.

03-28-2002, 11:16 PM	#6
sn95gt19 motors done......woohooo Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 799	you said that you were on your way home from work, so im taking it you drive the car often, the only downfalls that i have heard about a solid roller cam are that you will have to adjust the rocker arms quite a bit more than the hydraulic, also theres a better chance of something breaking with a solid cam. either way i would definitely go with the roller cam. before i did anything i would check why it sheared off the pin though.

03-29-2002, 09:08 PM	#8
Hozer 88GTConv Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Jacksonville, FL Posts: 706	Hocus Pocus? Is your car at Tony's now? I thought I saw it today. He is helping me with my ignition issue. Looks like the TFI module. __________________ 1988 GT Convertible 331 10:1 TW heads, GT-40 intake, MSD, TRW flattops, B Cam w/ 1.7's, MAC exhaust, 24's, 70 TB, 76 MAF, 3.73's, Pro 5.0, Koni's, Anderson PMS, Wideband 02, yatta, yatta... One week with new motor, two speeding tickets...joy

03-29-2002, 10:40 PM	#9
Five0 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: middleburg, fl, usa Posts: 1,134	Yes, I will be up there to get it running soon. I just bought a new 92 mustang 4cyl to get me around and for the gas mileage. __________________ James Cox RHC Member #44 nochevy@hotmail.com 1991 Mustang LX Dart iron eagle block, 4340 28oz 347 crank, 4340 h-beam rods, probe ultra light pistons canfield heads “race ported by Brent Frazier”, solid roller cam and lifters “custom grind”, kooks 1 7/8" race headers, and much more. Engine built by Brent Frazier.

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