C&L 73mm vs. 76mm
 

Which would be better for my application C&L's 73mm or 76mm MAF?
I recently purchased an Expolrer intake and I also have b303, 70mm TB, 1.7s, pulleys, Crane Fireball, full exhaust and 3.55s.

Going large on your MAF is not going to hurt your performance as it is the throttle body that really regulates the amount of air let into your engine. I prefer keeping the MAF plenty big enough as to let the TB draw air up the intake path more easily. I run the 76mm C&L with absolutely no complaints. Also, it is easily recalibrated by swapping sampling tubes in the event that you change injectors, and it comes with a nice aluminum inlet elbow from the MAF to the TB. Look around for a group purchase on it. I got a steal of a deal through JD's Performance on a group purchase, and they have one of the lowest regular costs as well.

--nathan

Do you know of any group purchases? I've prob missed them all.
I was thinking about the 73mm because its cheaper and prob sufficient for my needs?

poopstang,

You might search around on the Corral and see if you can find one. They've usually got something going on. Also, JD's sponsers them occasionally. Check his site and give him a call (http://www.jdsperformance.com). His 76mm retails for $205. He also has the 73mm for $149. I'm not sure if you can swap sampling tubes on it, however.

Reguardless, the 73mm flows ~700cfm and should be plenty sufficient for your application. Go with what works for you and what you can afford. That 73mm should work great for you.

--nathan

thanx dude

if you are gonna get the 73mm then go with the vortech unit. C&L makes them for vortech so they are the same thing. and if you buy it from vortech they are only $120. you cant beat that! i am going to buy from vortech and save a lot of money...

hope it helps,
adam

where you getting it from?

VORTECH,

www.vortecheng.com

adam

I bought my C&L 76mm, from C&L themselves for $179. And if your stock or close it it, and you don't have heads, DO NOT BUY A BIGGER MASS AIR, you will pick up no 1/4 time, and you won't feel any difference. Trust me, when I had everything but heads on my mustang and bought the 76mm, I felt no difference, and it didn't knock anytime off. But if you had the cash I'd go ahead and buy the 76mm, but if your doing a budget build up buy the cheaper one.

Now you can buy the C&L without the tube from the TB to the MA, and it's $179, or you can the whole thing for a lil over $200.

Either MAF will be fine, I would go with the 76mm, BUT be real carefull with the "B" cam and 1.7 rockers.

Get a 76mm MAF or Pro-M 77mm MAF!

BUT be real carefull with the "B" cam and 1.7 rockers.

I've had lots of machine work. shaved block and heads, fly cut pistons and valve reliefs.

gtsr515 why do you say to be careful with 1.7's and the B cam? Idle problems or what?

Lift with 1.7's and the B cam comes out to be only .510" which is fine on even a stock HO motor. So theres no reason to be concerned about too much lift, if thats what you are suggesting.

I even know some guys that have used 1.7's with the E cam on the stock pistons. Lift there was .529", they probably cut it real close but it still worked fine.

when i rebuilt my motor i checked piston to valve clearence and it was less than .030. so i had the pistons cut to be safe.

The reason i say be carefull is with piston to valve clearance, most builders suggest .70 to be on the safe side, especially on 5-speed cars.

Yes, many install a "B" or an "E" and check clearance, some run a little a .40, you better have damn good valve springs and rarely miss a shift to run it that close.

you are correct. Minimum clearance spec is .080 from Ford.