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DZEE'S LX · 01-25-2002, 01:08 AM

Chris,

It seems like your method would work. If not, I'd like to know why.
The big question is whether or not your #1 is at the end of the compression OR the exhaust stroke. You can tell if it's right, before you put the timing cover back on, if you watch the lifters as the #1 piston comes up. If the exhaust lifter moves when the piston starts up then you are 180 deg off. Both valves must be closed if you are on the compression stroke. TDC is at the top of this compression stroke.
Not sure if you have a manual, but I have both the Haynes and Ford books and they both talk about how to find TDC. The problem is that they tell you how to do it by marking your distributor and finding TDC before you remove stuff.
With heads off you can fashion whatever you want to make sure the piston is exactly at the top.
I'm wondering why it was stated that you can't use the timing marks? If you set your gears and chain correctly how would you ever use a timing light for timing if you can't trust the marks?

I may be wrong here. An education on the degree wheel and piston stop would be helpful.

Dan

01-25-2002, 01:08 AM	#8
DZEE'S LX Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 117	Chris, It seems like your method would work. If not, I'd like to know why. The big question is whether or not your #1 is at the end of the compression OR the exhaust stroke. You can tell if it's right, before you put the timing cover back on, if you watch the lifters as the #1 piston comes up. If the exhaust lifter moves when the piston starts up then you are 180 deg off. Both valves must be closed if you are on the compression stroke. TDC is at the top of this compression stroke. Not sure if you have a manual, but I have both the Haynes and Ford books and they both talk about how to find TDC. The problem is that they tell you how to do it by marking your distributor and finding TDC before you remove stuff. With heads off you can fashion whatever you want to make sure the piston is exactly at the top. I'm wondering why it was stated that you can't use the timing marks? If you set your gears and chain correctly how would you ever use a timing light for timing if you can't trust the marks? I may be wrong here. An education on the degree wheel and piston stop would be helpful. Dan __________________ Spec Service (UHP), BFG G-Force KDW's, Turbo Coupe 3.55 rear w/disks, 73mm calipers, Stg 1 Twisted Wedges, TFS Street Intake, 70mm TB, E cam, Crane 1.7's, Aeromotive FPR, BBK 1 5/8 shorties, elec fan, FMS Al Radiator, Moroso Wires, Kenne Bell Ramair, March pulleys, Race Magnums, 190 lph Walbro, FMS Al Dshaft, D/S loop, MM 4point rollbar, FMS C spngs, strut tower brace, Tokico Illuminas, Prothane bushings, MM Lwr Conrol Arms, KB welded subs, Cervini Mach 1 hood/valence/side skirts/wing/airdam.