can anyone identify these codes?

[PrplMonster]

Ok i finally got this thing to spit out some codes.

started off with 85, flashed 85 twice.
then 11
then 33
then 66
then 33
then 66

then wouldn't flash anymore(check engine light) i know 85 = canister purge(not there at the moment) anyone have a code sheet..?

.dave

[jimberg]

33 is EGR related, no biggy like the canister purge.

66 is the troublesome one. It's reporting that your MAF sensor is below minimum voltage. This would explain your hesitation.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[PrplMonster]

Low MAF voltage means, that the sensor needs to be replaced..? how can i test it..?

.dave

[John]

what scanner do you have purpl, i'm going to go buy one soon , dont know if you got my email but a bunch of us are driving to bradenton this weekend from ft myers and bonita springs/naples

------------------
89 Notch: ASP Pullies,
K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, always room for more

[jimberg]

Either you have bad wiring or the sensor needs to be replaced or at least checked.

All you need is a wire to read codes. Here is how you do it.



When you turn the ignition key on it will start flashing codes on the check engine light. This will only work with EEC-IV computers.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[John]

do you just count how many times it flashes, and where is that plug?

------------------
89 Notch: ASP Pullies,
K&N Air,Transgo shiftkit,Trans. cooler,FMS 3 core , FMS 4:10's, 1.5" cowl, cold air kit, hooker shorties(jet hot coated), O/R H-Pipe, ASP solid mounts, Energy Sus. Trans. Mnt. BBK 70mm TB, MSD 6al, Dual elec. fans, 5.0 Firepower Kit, Scorpion 1.6 RR's, Flowmasters, 73 mm MAF, always room for more

[PKRWUD]

JIM-
FYI: dave has been emailing me with concerns about his PCV system, and I asked him to remove the vent tube between the oil filler tube and the TB, at the TB, and to place his thumb over it while the engine was running, and tell me whether he feels vacuum or pressure. Anyway, this could trigger a code 66. I haven't heard back from him since asking him if the codes were pulled before or after checking the vent tube. Just thought you might want to know.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

[jimberg]

Chris, thanks for the heads up. Is that one line on the throttle body sufficiently large enough to cause such a problem? I wouldn't have guessed that.


John, I realized I forgot to say where it was. Usually the connectors are in a cover that is mounted to the driver side firewall or just hanging loose. There's the big black one (foreground) and a little gray one (background). Both should be in the cover or close by to each other. The yellow jumper goes from the black connector to the gray one.

Yes, you count the flashes. Codes will be transmitted twice. If you have a pre-91 EEC-IV it will have two digit codes. 91 and later has 3 digit codes. The first set of codes will be the results of your self test. Then there will be a long pause followed by a beep followed by a long pause. The next codes will be continuous codes. These are the ones that occurred while actually driving.

If you start the car, you can also do the Key On Engine Running test. This will test stuff like the IAB. For more information, read the article on Corral.Net in their technical section.

Just as and FYI for anyone interested, the terminal on the right most side of the picture on the black test connector is the fuel pump test lead. You can use a jumper from there to ground to run the fuel pump while the ignition key is in the on position. This is the way you should set your fuel pressure with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[This message has been edited by jimberg (edited 08-19-2001).]

[PrplMonster]

ok guys. Early this morning i reset the computer. You were right chris.... When i took off the Valve cover-to-TB breather tube, it set off a code 66, as far as the push or pull factor, at idle it's got vacuum. I did both the KOEO and the KOER. heres what i got.

with the KOEO:
33- EGR(no smog equip on the car, no vac to the valve)
85- Evap Canister
The Evap Canister was off when i bought it, and the hose just vents to the atmosphere. Is it ok being like that..?

with the KOER:
41- Heated lean 02 right
91- Heated lean 02 left
33- EGR again

I have fuel press set at 60psi with the vac. off.. how could i be lean like that?

Also: This only happens when moving foward/reverse, my idle will hover for a second or two around 1300-1500 then return to idle. Remember, this only happens when moving.

About the lean condition, the MAF meter says 24 right on it. I know i am getting a good spray from the nozzle. What gives..?

thanx for all your help guys(jimberg/PckrWud)
.dave

[jimberg]

Originally posted by PrplMonster:
I have fuel press set at 60psi with the vac. off.. how could i be lean like that?

It's possible that the O2 sensors are shot. When they go, they start to report less and less voltage which means that they are reporting a lean condition. Running too rich for too long can damage the O2 sensors. The only way this can really happen is if you have a fault that causes your computer to stay in open loop mode.

Does your engine get sufficiently warm? 180 degrees or more? Did you run for a long period of time with a bad critical sensor or something?

Another possibility is that you don't have the orange HEGO ground wire grounded properly. Hopefully it's only the ground wire. I've never actually forgotten about this, so it's only a guess.

Originally posted by PrplMonster:

Also: This only happens when moving foward/reverse, my idle will hover for a second or two around 1300-1500 then return to idle. Remember, this only happens when moving.

This is normal. The computer will open the IAB valve to get the RPMs up when you're rolling to a stop. This is so that your engine doesn't stall if you have to brake hard and don't have time to get to the clutch.



------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[PrplMonster]

jimberg- shes gets plenty warm, my fan turns on at 195, and she never gets above 200.

The orange wire is connected to the back of the intake manifold like it should be. I bought an arp manifold bolt kit, but used the stock stud.

The 02 sensors have like 1k on them(both) and it's done this before the new 02 sensors..

My floorboard gets pretty hot, i am assuming the h-pipe is getting pretty hot under there.

Is there any way to test the o2 system with a DMM..? From what i've heard the cockpit 02 gauges suck. Is there any way to check the rich/lean while it's running...? If the 02 sensors are reading lean, this thing must be WAY rich ..guys this thing boogies

.dave

[jimberg]

Originally posted by PrplMonster:
Is there any way to test the o2 system with a DMM..? From what i've heard the cockpit 02 gauges suck. Is there any way to check the rich/lean while it's running...? If the 02 sensors are reading lean, this thing must be WAY rich ..guys this thing boogies

Yes, there's definitely a noticeable seat of the pants feeling in mine, too, when I run on the rich side. I notice it everytime I reset my computer. Eventually it goes away when the computer adapts, though.

I'm working on a way to remedy this. It involves using a potentiometer on the o2 sensors to tune out some voltage. I'd like my solution to help people who want to run leaner, too, so it may involve some amplifiers. Any advice from an electrical engineer would be greatly appreciated.

You need an analog voltmeter with at least 10 Megaohms of input impedance. A digital voltmeter will only give you average voltage. An oscilliscope would probably be pretty cool. I wonder if it's possible to pick one up cheap somewhere.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[This message has been edited by jimberg (edited 08-20-2001).]

[PrplMonster]

ON the o2 sensor, it has 3 wires:2 whites, 1 black.

Assuming the whites are power..? and the black is ground..?

How much resistance does an Autometer Amp gauge have, you could just redirect the pulses to it, through the common plug that joins the o2 harness to the rest of the computer harness.

So hey, if the o2 sensors are reading REAL lean, would unplugging them make any change, to see if they still work or not..?

.dave

[jimberg]

Unplugging the O2 sensors would force your engine into open loop mode.

I don't think the amp gauge would be near the range of what the o2 sensors would be putting out.

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[PrplMonster]

well i disconnected the o2 harness(reset the computer first). When i unplugged it, i goosed the throttle, and it started to have a slight surging idle, plugged it back in and goosed the throttle again, no surge.
The cam is pretty radical, i thought mass-air could compensate..?

any idea's guys..?

.dave

[jimberg]

Mass air can't really compensate for cam characteristics.

I guess after all the stuff we've gone through, what's actually not working correctly at this point besides the HEGOs showing a lean condition when you are really rich?

------------------
351W 89 Mustang GT Convertible

[PrplMonster]

its saying i am lean, but man 60pi, i can't see how i am not getting a good spray pattern, plus no matter what i do, The plugs never really show any change. <lost>

I was wondering if a slight exhaust leak would cause this condition, but i know i don't have one, she sounds great though borla.. ;]

.dave

[PrplMonster]

I don't know about you guys, but whenever i needed an o2 sensor i went to autozone or a local shop. Well today i found out that o2 sensors are model specific(calibration code) So i went to the ford dealer around here and got 2 new ones. Hopefully this will cure my lean problem!


I asked this in another post but. I have an autometer temp gauge. Would the STOCK temp gauge wire not being hooked up give me a problem..?

.dave