can i just re-ring it?

[fiveohpatrol]

a few months back my oilpump driveshaft snapped on my way home and i drove the car for about 5 minutes to get home (i know i know im a dumbass) anyway, since then it burns a quart of oil every 700 to 1000 miles depending on how hard i beat on it, before this happened it would only burn a quart every 3000 miles, i pulled the motor and put new bearings in

so my question is, should it be mostly the fault of the rings being worn from 110,000 miles and the 5 minutes of no oil pressure?
if so will just re-ringing it be ok for another 1.5-2 years until i build a new motor the right way, i havent done a compression test yet but i know it wont turn out good anyway

i know its not the right way to do it, but have anyone of you just done a re-ring and it turn out ok?

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88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframes, 65mm TB, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph f/p, Crane Adj.FPR, Nitto drag radials, best 1/4--> 13.76@101.4 on a 2.17 60ft

[WADS56]

If you want to take the time to rering it, it would not be much more work to put in new mains, and rod bearings. I would bet that you did some cilinder wall damage and the new rings would not seat though. But if it all checks out ok go for it. And if the crank and rod journals are in spec throw in a set of bearings.

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NA 347 W/ stage 2 Canfield heads, out of the box Victor 5.0 intake, solid roller cam, Aeromotive fuel system, proshifted TKO II.
MY CAR http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1288

[This message has been edited by WADS56 (edited 08-28-2001).]

[fiveohpatrol]

i did replace the main and rod bearings after that happened, as they were pretty bad

the reason i ask this is this is my only car and i'd like to get it done fast, instead of tearing the whole block down and sending it out to get it cleaned up and bored out

i do know that right before i ran it with no pressure that the cylinder walls still had the crosshatching on them, but im sure they dont now

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88 Notch, B&M Ripper, 3.73's, Ported E7's, Explorer int. w/ ported lower, pulleys, 1.7RR's, BBK headers, off-road H-pipe, flowmasters, subframes, 65mm TB, March ram air ,MSD coil, U/L control arms, 155lph f/p, Crane Adj.FPR, Nitto drag radials, best 1/4--> 13.76@101.4 on a 2.17 60ft

[dinomite]

i'd say if your going to the trouble of disasembly, you might as well get the block done.

[smokedchevy]

As long as your bores are round and you can put a cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls, you can re-ring it. You'll have to check the bores with a bore gauge and use a "dingle-berry" hone to pattern the walls. Put a compression tester on your engine and turn it over. After you get the reading record it, then shoot a little oil in the cylinders and check it again. If your compression goes up after the oil, your rings are toast.

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92 GT, 4:10 gears, centerforce clutch, 6# powerdyne blower, bbk h-pipe, flowmasters

[Unit 5302]

Originally posted by smokedchevy:
... use a "dingle-berry" hone to pattern the walls.

Do you mean a glaze breaker? I've never heard of it referred to as a "dingle-berry" hone, LOL.

I agree with smokedchevy. Do a quick bore check to make sure it's not too worn. I personally wouldn't hone it though. It's not a snowmobile so you can't just take the jugs off, and if you use a stone glaze breaker you'll have crap dropping into your cylinders. If your cylinders are not straight, or the are worn more than a couple thousandths, I'd send it out and have it bored.

Well, I suppose if worse comes to worse you could always cover the bottom of the bore with a rag and clean the cylinder walls when you are done honing, since the rings never see the bottom of the bore anyway.

[This message has been edited by Unit 5302 (edited 08-28-2001).]

[fiveohpatrol]

anyone else have any input?

[smokedchevy]

Dingle-berry hone is a technical term.

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92 GT, 4:10 gears, centerforce clutch, 6# powerdyne blower, bbk h-pipe, flowmasters