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Cant Wont Accelerate past 3000rpms
I just installed bbk headers/65 mm Throttle body. THe car wont accelerate past 3000rpms. I punch it in 1st gear and the car will hit 3krpm and feels like its in neutral. I can keep it in 3rd gear punch it all the way down it hits 3krpm and it wont go.
What is goin on? Is there something wrong with the Throttle body???? Also the new TB whistless. ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
Is your fuel system all stock? Cause if so, it could be getting too much air and gets starved of fuel. Possibly just a higher volume fuel pump could help you there.
hope this helps... ------------------ 89 black GT, 5 spd flex-a-lite electric fan flowmaster cat-back + h-pipe 1 5/8 equal length shorty headers MSD Blaster coil |
No it's not the due to insufficient fuel b/c i put back the old TB and still got the same results. IM pretty sure it is the O2 sensor b/c the car wont go past 2500 rpm. ANd thats when the o2 either starts to run the car richer or leaner.
------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
It may sound simple, but did something get moved into the way of the throttle linkage? That happened to me once, and I couldn't get full throttle. Might want to check it out.
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I bet it's the MAF. I had the same problem you have. Run a code scan and let us know.
------------------ 1995 GT Black- Edelbrock 6037's,Intake,Edelbrock cam,70mm TB,75mm pro-m,Taylor wires, pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter Flowmaster,3.73's, Eibach pro rate springs lower control arms Centerforce clutch New motor in the works! |
Here are some of the exact symptoms:
1)The car has good pick up b4 2500 rpm On the punch 2)Once i hit 40+mph the car has no more punch. 3)2500-3000 the car surges,hesitates to go, and gives a put put. Any ideas? When i installed the headers and tb. the only cables i disconnected where the airflow sensor/ Idle control unit/ the cable on the tb. that has 3 pins/ and the negative battery cable. Any ideas yet? I was wondering if when i installed the headers if they didnt sit properly and had a opening and air was getting in could it mess up the o2 sensor reading???? ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body [This message has been edited by caliplaya650 (edited 08-27-2001).] [This message has been edited by caliplaya650 (edited 08-27-2001).] |
I'm almost 100% sure it's your air meter. It may just be a bad connection or it could be the meter is dead. A code scan will tell you for sure. If you have a buddy who can loan you his MAF, try that first.
Good luck ------------------ 1995 GT Black- Edelbrock 6037's,Intake,Edelbrock cam,70mm TB,75mm pro-m,Taylor wires, pulleys,Equal length headers,K&N filter Flowmaster,3.73's, Eibach pro rate springs lower control arms Centerforce clutch New motor in the works! |
I've ran the codes but i dont seem to get any it will beep once (pause) once (pause) which is a code 11 system ok. If there is another way to listen/use the coder reader let me know. I dont think it would be the air meter (the black box that says
"air flow <===="??) B/c it was working fine b4 the installs. Could it be that the headers on the right side arent sitting properly???? and air coming in is ****ing up the rpm's?? ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
i Ran the Ford code reader and im not too sure if i was reading it ryt but i got these codes. beep beep _____ beep beep
which was about code 22???? The second code after a long pause was beep x 3(a small pause) x 3 a longer pause beep x3 (a small pause) beep x 3 So would that be code 33/33 or code 66???????? code 22=Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range code 33= EGR Valve not opening properly If code 33 is really code 66 it would be= VAF/Mass Air Flow sensor fault, below minimum voltage. HELP!!!!!!!! ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
I still havent had any luck w/ the problem. Could it be that the throttle linkage is not working properly??
Also the car has an exhaust backfire somewhere between the headers and the 2nd cat converter? Any ideas.. ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
Well, you can throw the O2 sensor theory out. The codes you got should be a hint that your MAF is indeed malfunctioning.
The O2 sensor does not affect the car at wide open throttle. The car goes into "open loop" mode and ignores emissions components. The EGR valve will also not affect you at wide open throttle, it's for idle. Also, the baro/map sensor code shouldn't concern you. Not at wide open throttle. The MAF sensor would override it anyway. Make sure your MAF sensor is properly connected. If it is mustang17 more than likely hit the nail on the head. |
Just out of curiosity, what did you adjust your TPS to after installing the TB? Have you pulled codes with the engine running (KOER), or just with the engine off (KOEO)?
Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
I have only ran the KOEO test and recieved the codes mentioned above. When i setup the tb. I adjusted the Idle to 750rpm. Measured the Voltage and it was fine between .5 -.8.
How would i run the KOER Tests. What i dont understand is that everything ran perfect before the installs??? Also the tb whistles.? ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
A quick way to check if it is your MAF is to unplug it. It will run like crap at idle, but it should run fine at WOT. If the problem clears it is your MAF.
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PUT THE TPS VOLTAGE TO .999 AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS.
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DO NOT SET IT TO .999! I still can't believe there are people out there who like to screw up their idle believing that gives them performance. Probably still believe in the tooth fairy, too.
To pull KOER codes, make sure the engine is warmed up. Shut it off. Insert your jumper. Start engine. Shut off Engine. Wait 10 seconds, and restart engine. Ignore the MIL at first. After about 15 seconds, watch for a single MIL flash. When it flashes, quickly push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and release. Within 10 to 20 seconds, you should start receiving MIL flashes that are the codes. They will repeat twice. Write them down and shut off the engine. Post them here. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
PKRWUD, I ran the KOEO codes and got 1st=66
2nd=66. 66= VAF/ Mass Air Flow Fault, Below minimum voltage. When i ran the KOER test i got back no codes. But i did get the 4 beeps at the beginning and later 1 1 1 11. Could ihave done it wrong? THe car idled and would later speed up idle down speed up. I also tried disconnecting the MAF at idle it did run hard but seemed to smooth out at WOT. What symptons should i have experianced. I didnt notice little to no diffrence w/ the MAF Plugged VS Unplugged. ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
MINE IDLES FINE WITH IT SET AT .999. FROM THE FACTORY MINE WAS AT .997.
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caliplaya650-
If the code 66 didn't reoccur during KOER, then it's an old code. You mentioned the TB whistling. You need to isolate this. Air entering the system after the MAF can trip a code 66, and since it didn't come back during KOER, I don't think it's a wiring problem. Make sure there aren't any leaks after the MAF, disconnect the neg battery cable, turn on the headlight switch (to discharge any capacitors), turn it off, attach the neg battery cable, and perform a KOEO test. It should pass. Then perform another KOER test, and post the results. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
5ohCOUPE-
You are very lucky if you haven't experienced any problems yet, but you will. The ECM uses the TPS voltage to understand many things, including driver intent. When the TPS reaches 1 volt, the ECM believes you are no longer sitting at idle, but are attempting to drive. It will make adjustments trying to compensate for this, which will give you an unstable idle rpm and mixture. This will lead to eventual clogging of the cats, dilution of the oil, and accelerated wear and tear. I'm not sure where you bought your car, but I have never seen a factory TPS spec at .997 vdc. It's way too close to 1 volt, and as the TPS starts to wear, it will reach 1 volt. There was a popular rumor that ran around for a while in which the thinking was that the closer you could get your TPS to 1 volt, the snappier your throttle response would be. This is based in truth, but exagerated. There is not a human alive that can tell the difference in throttle responsiveness when the TPS is set at .95 vs. .999. In fact, 5.0 MA SEFI Mustangs have a minimum setting of .39 vdc, and a recommended setting of .601 (+/- 3%). Obviously, you can set yours however you like, but why risk the trouble for no gain??? Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
YEAH YOU ARE RIGHT. I GUESS I COULD ADJUST IT DOWN A LITTLE. I BOUGHT THE CAR AT THE FL. POLICE AUCTION. IT WAS A TROOPER CAR. THE TPS HAD NEVER BEEN TAKEN OFF BEFORE. I GUESS THIS WAS A WEIRD CAR OR THE TPS COULD HAVE BEEN BAD. I SINCE HAVE CHANGED IT. THANKS.
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How would i stop the whistling?? I've heard that the bbk TB is Infamous for its whistling. I like it but is it affecting the drivability of my vehicle? Im pretty damn sure that the COLD AIR Intake is secured properly. (what did the removal of the maf and driving indicate?)
How would i check the timing on my car? I checked the balancer and dont find the 8,10 12, etc degree marks. When installing the Headers i had to raise up the car and in doing so i raised it by putting the jack under the crank pulley and jacking it up. Could i have damaged the crank or any other component???? ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
You are a very bad boy. Never support the weight of the engine on the crank pulley. Next time, use a block of wood under the oil pan. If you damaged the crank/pulley/balancer, you would notice it/them wobble when idling, and would feel it when driving.
Pull the #1 spark plug, and wad up a piece of kleenex and stuff it into the spark plug hole (not all the way into the cylinder, just try and plug the hole). Rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar and a socket on the crank until the kleenex pops out. You are now very near TDC on the compression stroke. Remove your distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to #1. Shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole. You should see the top of the piston. Assuming you don't have a dial indicator with a spark plug adapter, place a long pencil into the spark plug hole so that it is resting on the piston. Very slowly, rock the breaker bar back and forth while watching the pencil. it will move slightly up and down. Find the point where the pencil doesn't move, so that moving the breaker bar in either direction would cause the pencil to go down, and stop. You are now at zero degrees (TDC). Get some liquid paper and make a mark that corresponds with your timing pointer. next, you either find someone with a timing light that has an adjuster on the end, or get a cloth tape measure and measure the circumference of what ever you put the mark on in centimeters(pulley, balancer, etc.), and divide the total by 360. next, multiply the last answer by 10, and that is the distance from your zero degree mark to the 10 degree mark. If you are certian that the whistling is not caused by an air leak, then don't worry about it. If there was no difference with the MAF unplugged, then it's defective, or there's a short in the wiring. If there was a noticable difference, then the wiring is fine, and the MAF may be dirty. Try cleaning the wire. Otherwise, do what I said before. It's very important that you disconnect the battery and turn on the headlight switch after all work is done, but before driving or pulling codes. I want you to do another KOEO and KOER, but the battery must be disconnected just prior, and the engine must be warmed up. Post the results. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!! |
PKRWUD, I ran the codes this time and i got back all singles e.g. 1 1 1 1 pause 1 pause 1 1 1 1.
ON the KOER Test i got back code 12 pause 12 and from there i got no more codes. Code 12 is the idle rpm out of range. any ideas? O yah when i lifted the car from the balancer. i did put a 2 by 4 under it http://www.mustangworks.com/msgboard/smile.gif ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
PKRWUD. DO you know any one that works for a ford dealership that could help out???
O yah. Could it be that the car has a tranny problem??? ------------------ 1992 Mustang 5.0 BBK cold air intake Dual Flows w/ H Pipe BBK Underdrive Pulleys BBK 65mm Throttle Body |
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