MustangWorks.com : Ford Forums - View Single Post

PKRWUD · 09-11-2001, 05:54 AM

You are a very bad boy. Never support the weight of the engine on the crank pulley. Next time, use a block of wood under the oil pan. If you damaged the crank/pulley/balancer, you would notice it/them wobble when idling, and would feel it when driving.

Pull the #1 spark plug, and wad up a piece of kleenex and stuff it into the spark plug hole (not all the way into the cylinder, just try and plug the hole). Rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar and a socket on the crank until the kleenex pops out. You are now very near TDC on the compression stroke. Remove your distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to #1. Shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole. You should see the top of the piston. Assuming you don't have a dial indicator with a spark plug adapter, place a long pencil into the spark plug hole so that it is resting on the piston. Very slowly, rock the breaker bar back and forth while watching the pencil. it will move slightly up and down. Find the point where the pencil doesn't move, so that moving the breaker bar in either direction would cause the pencil to go down, and stop. You are now at zero degrees (TDC). Get some liquid paper and make a mark that corresponds with your timing pointer. next, you either find someone with a timing light that has an adjuster on the end, or get a cloth tape measure and measure the circumference of what ever you put the mark on in centimeters(pulley, balancer, etc.), and divide the total by 360. next, multiply the last answer by 10, and that is the distance from your zero degree mark to the 10 degree mark.

If you are certian that the whistling is not caused by an air leak, then don't worry about it.

If there was no difference with the MAF unplugged, then it's defective, or there's a short in the wiring. If there was a noticable difference, then the wiring is fine, and the MAF may be dirty. Try cleaning the wire. Otherwise, do what I said before. It's very important that you disconnect the battery and turn on the headlight switch after all work is done, but before driving or pulling codes.

I want you to do another KOEO and KOER, but the battery must be disconnected just prior, and the engine must be warmed up.

Post the results.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet

My site: JimPorterRacing

RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

09-11-2001, 05:54 AM	#3
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	You are a very bad boy. Never support the weight of the engine on the crank pulley. Next time, use a block of wood under the oil pan. If you damaged the crank/pulley/balancer, you would notice it/them wobble when idling, and would feel it when driving. Pull the #1 spark plug, and wad up a piece of kleenex and stuff it into the spark plug hole (not all the way into the cylinder, just try and plug the hole). Rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar and a socket on the crank until the kleenex pops out. You are now very near TDC on the compression stroke. Remove your distributor cap and verify that the rotor is pointing to #1. Shine a flashlight into the spark plug hole. You should see the top of the piston. Assuming you don't have a dial indicator with a spark plug adapter, place a long pencil into the spark plug hole so that it is resting on the piston. Very slowly, rock the breaker bar back and forth while watching the pencil. it will move slightly up and down. Find the point where the pencil doesn't move, so that moving the breaker bar in either direction would cause the pencil to go down, and stop. You are now at zero degrees (TDC). Get some liquid paper and make a mark that corresponds with your timing pointer. next, you either find someone with a timing light that has an adjuster on the end, or get a cloth tape measure and measure the circumference of what ever you put the mark on in centimeters(pulley, balancer, etc.), and divide the total by 360. next, multiply the last answer by 10, and that is the distance from your zero degree mark to the 10 degree mark. If you are certian that the whistling is not caused by an air leak, then don't worry about it. If there was no difference with the MAF unplugged, then it's defective, or there's a short in the wiring. If there was a noticable difference, then the wiring is fine, and the MAF may be dirty. Try cleaning the wire. Otherwise, do what I said before. It's very important that you disconnect the battery and turn on the headlight switch after all work is done, but before driving or pulling codes. I want you to do another KOEO and KOER, but the battery must be disconnected just prior, and the engine must be warmed up. Post the results. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!