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Old 06-27-2003, 01:17 AM   #1
TMASTER
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Default Car dies when I come to a stop

My 93 GT just dies when i come to a stop from driving it. It doesn't sputter or miss, or act like fuel. It just dies very suddenly. Then I start it right back up and it drives normal. Also the Check engine light and Battery light come on when it dies. But both go away when i start it back up.
What could it be, its happend to me 3 times already

Also my clutch pedal has been clicking off and on for months now, when i press in.
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Old 06-27-2003, 12:53 PM   #2
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Do you have an aftermarket cam?

Thanks,
DoranW
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[Front and rear sway bars]-[New black carpet and seats.]
[Adjustable Fuel Regulator]-[T5 Conversion w/ K. Cobra Clutch/Hurst STS]
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Old 06-27-2003, 01:10 PM   #3
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Default no

Stock cam. I have the idle at 750-800rpms
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Old 06-28-2003, 08:57 AM   #4
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Could be a sticky EGR valve.

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Old 06-28-2003, 10:34 AM   #5
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or a sticky IAC
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NA pumpgas stickshift 347 10.65@125.6, 6.73@100, 1.41 60ft
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Old 06-28-2003, 11:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by fiveohpatrol
or a sticky IAC
True, but as the engine warms up, it relies less and less on the IAC. Still, worth looking at.



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Old 06-30-2003, 12:18 PM   #7
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Default getting worse

Now the Battery light is flickering off and on, everytime i drive now. And it died again. The alt gauge is normal all the time

replaced the IAC
New alternator
New battery

could it be a short somewhere?
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Old 06-30-2003, 12:34 PM   #8
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Have you checked your TPS voltage? It should be between .90-.95V or so. Check it across the green and the black wires with the key on and engine off.

Also, try unplugging your EGR valve and driving it. It may throw some codes at you, but you'll be able to see if thats the culprit or not.
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Old 06-30-2003, 12:40 PM   #9
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Default hmm

unplug where? the connector on the back? TPS voltage at .98 volts. Would that make the battery light flicker? heh.
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Old 07-03-2003, 03:36 PM   #10
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What is the voltage at the battery when the engine is off? Engine running? Engine running with headlights on high, a/c on w/ fan on high?

To check and see if it's the EGR, you would need to unplug the vacuum hose, not the electrical connector, and plug it.



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Old 07-03-2003, 10:29 PM   #11
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The alternator was bad, i just replaced it. But the car died on my again today, i guess thats not the problem. But this time it died, it too longer and i had to gas it to keep it going but it died still.
also replaced the IAC.
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Old 07-03-2003, 11:10 PM   #12
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Don't stop.

That was a easy one, next question please.
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Old 07-04-2003, 01:37 PM   #13
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Check your fuel pressure.
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Old 07-04-2003, 04:50 PM   #14
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Default hmmm

Fuel Pressure Regulator is at 40.5 Psi with vacuum off.

I was at the Dyno Yesterday and put the pressure down from 42psi to 40.5psi. and i made 3ft-Lb's of tourqe more than at 42.
and they said my A/F was 12:1 at 42psi

Whats funney is my stock regualtor runs at 45psi vacuum off.
I did a whole lot of mods. Then had to get a adjustable FPR to back the pressure off LOL.
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Old 07-05-2003, 12:44 AM   #15
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And it's still stalling when you come to a stop? Does it do it every time, or only when getting off the freeway, lets say?
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Old 07-05-2003, 02:51 AM   #16
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What happened with the EGR valve test? Does it still stall with the EGR vacuum line disconnected? Does it start hard or start right up after it stalls?

You mentioned your clutch pedal clicking. Does it shift hard?

You may also want to make sure that your plug wires are secure. If one is loose, it could be moving forward as you brake causing it to arc on a header.

Are you running your A/C? Does it matter if your A/C is on or off?

Fuel pressure will only affect air/fuel ratio until the computer adapts. 45 isn't all that high and dialing it back wasn't really necessary, but getting a new FPR probably eliminates that as a potential problem. Sorry, it's just a pet peeve with me. Especially if the guy at the dyno leads you to believe that you can adjust your air/fuel ratio with an adjustable FPR.
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:18 PM   #17
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Default still dieing

JimBerg:

THe car runs like normal when the EGR vacuum line is off, doesnt die. All new wires and plugs also.

The last 3 times the car has died, The AC has been on!!! The last time it died, i was going 30mph, when i down shifted into 4th.
I turn the AC off and it starts right back up and goes normally.
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:38 PM   #18
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Default Re: still dieing

Quote:
Originally posted by TMASTER
THe car runs like normal when the EGR vacuum line is off, doesnt die.
Don't overthink things. Read the line above that YOU wrote.

Now with the vacuum line off, if you mess with the A/C and all the other things and it still doesn't die, then you're going right past the problem.
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Old 07-06-2003, 07:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by PKRWUD
Could be a sticky EGR valve.

Take care,
~Chris
Dude. Come on. You're not gonna make me draw you a picture too, are you?



Take care,
~Chris
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Old 07-06-2003, 08:37 PM   #20
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If you have a vacuum gauge, hook it up to the line going to the EGR valve. It should read 0 vacuum at idle. If it doesn't, you need a new EGR vacuum regulator (EVR) solenoid (It's mounted on the back of the passenger side strut tower), if it does read 0, you probably need a new EGR valve.

As for the A/C being on, that was just a question to consider if the EGR valve test yielded nothing. It definitely sounds like the EGR test yielded something, so you should fix that before moving on to something else.

Let us know what you find out.
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