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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: Arkcity, Kansas 
				
				
					Posts: 44
				 
				
				
				
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			 I know this has to be a common problem, its a 90 mustang 5.0, the car wants to die at a low idle. It seems more so after it warms up. Usually if I hold my foot on the gas and idle it up to about 1000 rpm for several seconds and let off it will idle by its self. Any ideas?  I feel stupid asking, but injection is new to me as well as fords. Thanks 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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		#2 | 
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			Join Date: Jun 2003 
				Location: Novinger, Mo 
				
				
					Posts: 72
				 
				
				
				
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			 Could it be a dirty maf sensor? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	95 GT w/ AODE and Transgo Shift kit, trans cooler, SpeedCal, KB 1.5 Flowzilla w/ 6# pulley, MAC chrome CAI, chrome radiator hoses, stock MAF w/ center post removed, 70mm PP TB, electrical boost & FP gauges, digital A/F gauge, 1 5/8" unequal headers, 2 1/2" ProChamber h-pipe, Borla catback exhaust, and 3.55's. Cobra RR hood, Saleen double wing, Xenon body kit, chrome Cobra R wheels 17X8 in front and 17X10.5 in the back.  | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: Arkcity, Kansas 
				
				
					Posts: 44
				 
				
				
				
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			 Quote: 
	
 Is there a particular wat to clean the MAF? 
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		#4 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: Airdrie, Alberta - Canada 
				
				
					Posts: 28
				 
				
				
				
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			 I have cleaned them with electro contact cleaner and had no  
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	problems, seemed to work ok. After spraying lightly, I let it air dry. Cleaner evaporates fairly quickly. If using K&N filter, using excessive filter oil can cause problems with MAF sensor also.  | 
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		#5 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2003 
				Location: austin texas 
				
				
					Posts: 3
				 
				
				
				
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			 i would also check iac sensor and tps sensor just to make sure 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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		#6 | |
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: Arkcity, Kansas 
				
				
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			 Quote: 
	
 
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		#7 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: Arkcity, Kansas 
				
				
					Posts: 44
				 
				
				
				
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			 any more advice? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
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		#8 | 
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			 Mustang Maniac 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2000 
				Location: GA, U.S.A 
				
				
					Posts: 2,266
				 
				
				
				
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			 Hey man, start of with the cheap and easy stuff first. Check your vacuum lines and make sure they're not rotting or corroded. Start with the one coming from the intake going to the emissions control box. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body  | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2003 
				Location: South Texas 
				
				
					Posts: 21
				 
				
				
				
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			 Quote: 
	
 Have you checked for any codes yet?Just because there isn't a check engine light flashing,doesn't mean that the car isn't giving any codes...Get a cheap code scanner from AutoZone if you don't have one...it's easy to use and can point you in the right direction... What is the car idling at?I believe for a 5spd it should idle at about 750ish not sure about an auto but,my brother's 95 5.0 auto idle at about 500 rpm in drive and 750ish in park.. Good luck man-Milt 
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	My 92' GT Magnaflow Catback w/dumps (its deep   ) BBK O/R Hpipe BBK ceramic shorties Tokico Shocks and Struts Eibach Pro-kit springs PA Performance 3G alt MarkVIII Fan  | 
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		#10 | 
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			 Mustang Maniac 
			
			
		
			
				
			
			
			Join Date: Sep 2000 
				Location: GA, U.S.A 
				
				
					Posts: 2,266
				 
				
				
				
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			 I thought the TPS came set from the factory at around .92 (I could be wrong...) 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	351W-powered 1979 Ford Mustang Ghia notchback '79 Video @ Idle Stock 5.8L under 4" cowl 'glass hood, C4 w/ Transgo shift kit, Holley 750 cfm, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake; Fluidyne Al radiator, Flexalite 175 electric fan, 1 5/8" MAC shorty headers, FRPP Al driveshaft; S&W 6-point cage; 2.5" Off road H-pipe, 2-chamber Flowmasters, 8.8" Rear w/ 3.55s; Weld wheels (15x6;15x8), Front: 225/60/15, Rear: 275/50/15 Nitto NT 555R Drag Radials; 14 x 4” K&N X-stream air filter. '92 GT (5-speed) Small In Car Video Stock 5.0L, 2-chamber Flowmasters, MAC CAI, Tri-Ax, Al pedals... "Red, thou art my companion. Hasten now your quickened metamorphosis to Green that I may conquer all who dare abide there beside me. May they be left thither behind burnt black." ---Fox Body  | 
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		#11 | 
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			 Not sure about the factory setting...but .95-.98v is where you want it.  Also...when was the last time you changed your fuel filter? 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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		#12 | 
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
			Join Date: Aug 2002 
				Location: Rochester 
				
				
					Posts: 553
				 
				
				
				
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			 Now would be a good time to change your TFI module ( ignition module ) on the distributor. the low rpm side is probably burned out and is the most common failure and will drive you completly nutz.  its 30 bucks or less anywhere and if never changed it a good idea to do so. I had same problems and its was the case. good luck! 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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		#13 | |
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			 Registered Member 
			
			
		
			
			
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				Location: Arkcity, Kansas 
				
				
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