HELP- CAR WONT START

jimdrechsler · 06-25-2001, 03:23 PM

I own an 89 mustang convt. I turn the key and the battery light and oil light come on, but when I turn to start it, I hear one click and then nothing. When take the key out and put it back in to start, no interior lights come on at all. It does start with jumper cables, but when it is running, I can hear strange sounds (radio is a little distorted, the buzzer noise that the key is in the ignition is distorted too) after I turn the car off again, it will not start up and the same thing happens. A few weeks ago while I was driving about 65 or so, the RPM's jumped up and down real quick. When I pulled in the driveway, the car died and there was no power till I jumped it. The car started fine fine for about two more weeks, now it wont start at all without a jump. I tested the battery and the alternator, and they are both good. Any ideas!!!!! Thanks
Jim

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Stang Runner · 06-25-2001, 08:29 PM

Clean the Battery terminals or you Alternator is bad a no power to the Battery

------------------
1988 LX 5.0 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.90@100.2 On a Gtech
Drivetrain: 2.73 Stock Gears (New Gears coming in a week), World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Summit Adjustable Cluch Quadrant & Cable, Alumminum Driveshaft, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack
Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks
Engine: Steal Mounts, Ram air, K&N, Under Drive Pulles
Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\bac

BrentK7 · 06-25-2001, 10:42 PM

**sniff sniff** smells like an alternator problem to me, i am assuming your car is still a one(1) belt car, have you checked to see if maybe the belt snapped, that would explain the sudden jump in RPM, (cause there is a lot less drag on the motor if it isn't turning the alternator) this would also explain y the alternator tests out fine, it just isn't spinning. I am sure if the belt snapped you would know about it (the temp guage would be going up real fast aswell), it would be hard to miss.

OR MAYBE the belt is slipping over the alternator so that the belt is still intact, it just isn't turning the alternator, this would once again explain the sudden jump in RPM's, y the alternator checks out fine, and y it worked for about 2 weeks.

Make sure to tell us what's up when you figure it out.

------------------
-Brent "BrentK7" Keltner
BrentK7@Gamershome.com
ICQ# 5413021
-End of Line-

dinomite · 06-25-2001, 11:07 PM

Yup, sounds to me like you are having alternator troubles. I had an alternator sieze up on me while i was looking at it. I heard some wierd noise from the front, and was near home so i just went home and parked it. Went in, got my dad, told him of wierd noise. went back out, started it up, and we were both watching it when it seized up.

John Cummins · 06-26-2001, 01:25 PM

Wire in a 130 amp alternator. Its simple and it works. Corral.net has the article to show you how. The only difference is I bought a replacement harnes for a 94 GT alternator.

92Rustang · 06-26-2001, 05:04 PM

I had the same problem. It turn out to be a bad postive wire to the battery. I replaced it and everything was fine.Good luck and let us know.

------------------
Check my site for mod
www.fordmustanggt.com

jimdrechsler · 06-27-2001, 04:38 PM

I put the alternator back in after I took it out and tried placing a different battery (from my honda) in to see if it starts. IT worked!! So I brought up my original battery and asked to test it agian, and he said that it was still good!!!! So I bought a battery anyways, installed it, and it starts up with no problem. Do you think it could still be the alternator, and if so, I just wasted 70 bucks on a new battery OR do you think the freak at the auto store doesn't know what he's doing (although it was tested twice!)!!
Im sure I will find out on a long trip if it is the alternator (lets hope not)!! Thanks for responses!
Jim

------------------

PKRWUD · 06-28-2001, 12:59 AM

It's been my experience that 90% of the time the problem is too much resistance in one of the battery cables, usually the ground. Most of the time, cleaning the terminals and tightening the connection solves the problem. Changing batteries can be decieving because in the process of doing so you may have cleaned and tightened the connection, and the new battery certianly had clean posts. If it was your alternator, it wouldn't crap out and then be fine for two weeks. Odds are it was a dirty terminal. Always start with the simple stuff! It will save you a ton of money.

Take care
~Chris

jimdrechsler · 06-28-2001, 01:58 PM

Thanks fo the reply Chris-
I did however clean the posts to the old battery, but still did not work. Maybe your right in that the connection is tighter now than before. So far, still good- Starts up without a problem- Do you thuink if I drive a long distance, (1 hour or so) I will have a problem IF it is the alternator??
Jim

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PKRWUD · 06-28-2001, 04:31 PM

Absolutely! That's why I don't think it's the alternator. If it were bad, the only charging your battery would see would be when it's getting jumped, and that's not long enough to drive very far. Let me make a suggestion; get your hands on a voltmeter. It doesn't matter if it's a gauge type for inside the car, or a hand held multimeter, it just has to read DC volts. Now find a plug and cord for the cigarette lighter. You may have some old item in your garage that had a power cord for plugging in to your lighter that you can use. If not, go to your local auto parts store and pick one up for a buck or two. Now, bare the ends of each wire coming off the plug in adapter, and connect your voltmeter leads to them to see which way the polarity is. When you determine which is pos. and which is neg., attach them to the leads by twisting them around the lead tips and then with electrical tape. You just made a simple but accurate tool for checking the state of your cars electrical system under all conditions. Just plug it in and drive. As long as the gauge is at 13 volts or more, your alternator is charging the battery. If it should fall below 12.6 at ANY TIME that it's running, you are no longer charging, and need to have the system inspected.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

SPEEDY88 · 06-28-2001, 10:08 PM

the easiest way to check your alternator is....have the car running, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery and if it stalls out then the problem is your alternator, if it keeps on going then it's not the alternator!!!!! hope this helps.

jimdrechsler · 06-29-2001, 11:44 AM

Thanks for all replies, I will try both suggestions and see what happens!!!
Jim

PKRWUD · 06-29-2001, 08:44 PM

Speedy-
That's also the easiest way to fry your computer. Well, driving into a lake might be easier, but not by much. You should NEVER do that with a computer controlled engine.

Take care
~Chris

------------------
Retired Moderator
MustangNet
My site: JimPorterRacing
RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR

HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

06-25-2001, 03:23 PM	#1
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	HELP- CAR WONT START I own an 89 mustang convt. I turn the key and the battery light and oil light come on, but when I turn to start it, I hear one click and then nothing. When take the key out and put it back in to start, no interior lights come on at all. It does start with jumper cables, but when it is running, I can hear strange sounds (radio is a little distorted, the buzzer noise that the key is in the ignition is distorted too) after I turn the car off again, it will not start up and the same thing happens. A few weeks ago while I was driving about 65 or so, the RPM's jumped up and down real quick. When I pulled in the driveway, the car died and there was no power till I jumped it. The car started fine fine for about two more weeks, now it wont start at all without a jump. I tested the battery and the alternator, and they are both good. Any ideas!!!!! Thanks Jim ------------------

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06-25-2001, 08:29 PM	#2
Stang Runner Registered Member Join Date: Jun 1999 Location: Walker, MI, USA Posts: 1,202	Clean the Battery terminals or you Alternator is bad a no power to the Battery ------------------ 1988 LX 5.0 3060lbs (full Tank) 14.90@100.2 On a Gtech Drivetrain: 2.73 Stock Gears (New Gears coming in a week), World Class T-5, Lakewood Bellhousing, Summit Adjustable Cluch Quadrant & Cable, Alumminum Driveshaft, Flaming River Manual Steering Rack Suspension: MAC Control Arms,Maximum Motorsports Front Grip Package, H&R Sport Spings, Bilstein Shocks Engine: Steal Mounts, Ram air, K&N, Under Drive Pulles Exhaust: 1 5/8 Un-Equal Length Mac Headers, X-pipe W\cats, Edelbrock cat\bac

06-25-2001, 10:42 PM	#3
BrentK7 Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Overland Park, KS, USA Posts: 16	sniff sniff smells like an alternator problem to me, i am assuming your car is still a one(1) belt car, have you checked to see if maybe the belt snapped, that would explain the sudden jump in RPM, (cause there is a lot less drag on the motor if it isn't turning the alternator) this would also explain y the alternator tests out fine, it just isn't spinning. I am sure if the belt snapped you would know about it (the temp guage would be going up real fast aswell), it would be hard to miss. OR MAYBE the belt is slipping over the alternator so that the belt is still intact, it just isn't turning the alternator, this would once again explain the sudden jump in RPM's, y the alternator checks out fine, and y it worked for about 2 weeks. Make sure to tell us what's up when you figure it out. ------------------ -Brent "BrentK7" Keltner BrentK7@Gamershome.com ICQ# 5413021 -End of Line-

06-25-2001, 11:07 PM	#4
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	Yup, sounds to me like you are having alternator troubles. I had an alternator sieze up on me while i was looking at it. I heard some wierd noise from the front, and was near home so i just went home and parked it. Went in, got my dad, told him of wierd noise. went back out, started it up, and we were both watching it when it seized up.

06-26-2001, 01:25 PM	#5
John Cummins Registered Member Join Date: May 1999 Posts: 231	Wire in a 130 amp alternator. Its simple and it works. Corral.net has the article to show you how. The only difference is I bought a replacement harnes for a 94 GT alternator.

06-26-2001, 05:04 PM	#6
92Rustang Registered Member Join Date: Feb 1999 Location: Smithton, IL, US Posts: 215	I had the same problem. It turn out to be a bad postive wire to the battery. I replaced it and everything was fine.Good luck and let us know. ------------------ Check my site for mod www.fordmustanggt.com

06-27-2001, 04:38 PM	#7
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	I put the alternator back in after I took it out and tried placing a different battery (from my honda) in to see if it starts. IT worked!! So I brought up my original battery and asked to test it agian, and he said that it was still good!!!! So I bought a battery anyways, installed it, and it starts up with no problem. Do you think it could still be the alternator, and if so, I just wasted 70 bucks on a new battery OR do you think the freak at the auto store doesn't know what he's doing (although it was tested twice!)!! Im sure I will find out on a long trip if it is the alternator (lets hope not)!! Thanks for responses! Jim ------------------

06-28-2001, 12:59 AM	#8
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	It's been my experience that 90% of the time the problem is too much resistance in one of the battery cables, usually the ground. Most of the time, cleaning the terminals and tightening the connection solves the problem. Changing batteries can be decieving because in the process of doing so you may have cleaned and tightened the connection, and the new battery certianly had clean posts. If it was your alternator, it wouldn't crap out and then be fine for two weeks. Odds are it was a dirty terminal. Always start with the simple stuff! It will save you a ton of money. Take care ~Chris

06-28-2001, 01:58 PM	#9
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	Thanks fo the reply Chris- I did however clean the posts to the old battery, but still did not work. Maybe your right in that the connection is tighter now than before. So far, still good- Starts up without a problem- Do you thuink if I drive a long distance, (1 hour or so) I will have a problem IF it is the alternator?? Jim ------------------

06-28-2001, 04:31 PM	#10
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Absolutely! That's why I don't think it's the alternator. If it were bad, the only charging your battery would see would be when it's getting jumped, and that's not long enough to drive very far. Let me make a suggestion; get your hands on a voltmeter. It doesn't matter if it's a gauge type for inside the car, or a hand held multimeter, it just has to read DC volts. Now find a plug and cord for the cigarette lighter. You may have some old item in your garage that had a power cord for plugging in to your lighter that you can use. If not, go to your local auto parts store and pick one up for a buck or two. Now, bare the ends of each wire coming off the plug in adapter, and connect your voltmeter leads to them to see which way the polarity is. When you determine which is pos. and which is neg., attach them to the leads by twisting them around the lead tips and then with electrical tape. You just made a simple but accurate tool for checking the state of your cars electrical system under all conditions. Just plug it in and drive. As long as the gauge is at 13 volts or more, your alternator is charging the battery. If it should fall below 12.6 at ANY TIME that it's running, you are no longer charging, and need to have the system inspected. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!

06-28-2001, 10:08 PM	#11
SPEEDY88 Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1999 Location: TEXAS Posts: 110	the easiest way to check your alternator is....have the car running, then disconnect the negative cable from the battery and if it stalls out then the problem is your alternator, if it keeps on going then it's not the alternator!!!!! hope this helps.

06-29-2001, 11:44 AM	#12
jimdrechsler Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Posts: 167	Thanks for all replies, I will try both suggestions and see what happens!!! Jim

06-29-2001, 08:44 PM	#13
PKRWUD Junior Member Join Date: Mar 1999 Location: Ventura, California Posts: 8,981	Speedy- That's also the easiest way to fry your computer. Well, driving into a lake might be easier, but not by much. You should NEVER do that with a computer controlled engine. Take care ~Chris ------------------ Retired Moderator MustangNet My site: JimPorterRacing RACECAR spelled backwards is RACECAR HEY !!! Are you ASE Certified ??? If you are, ask me about iATN. The best tool you'll ever have, and it's free !!!