Car shutters when leaving from a full stop??

[93 Cobra needs input]

Last weekend I put a new tremec TKO in my cobra. I got the cobra R bellhousing and a new ram clutch disk that fit the tko splines I did use my stock pressure plate. I put everything together moved my crossmember and things were looking good till I drove it. When I take off from a dead stop the car shakes for a couple of seconds untill it get rolling then its fine, Tranny shifts ok and doesn't make any noise after the car is rolling. If I rev the motor higher and let the clutch out fairly quick it won't do it, only lower rpm's and slow clutch engagement. I have new u-joints and a new pilot bearing. Could this be the clutch needing to seat? I didn't turn the flywheel, car had only 70k looked perfect and in 2 months it is going to be stored and a 28oz balance new flywheel installed. This is kinda buging my and really anoying any coments sent my way are helpfull thanks.

[avbcon12]

could just be the clutch slipping at low RPM's. which is common on high performance clutches. or it would be your u-joints in the driveshaft. or it could be that you dont have your trans mount tightened enough.

thats all i can think of right now.

take care,
adam

[bigblockcoupe]

the 302 ho in the mustang has a 50oz imbalance 28oz is for the older 302 and it sounds as though your pressure plate isn't releasing evenly causing it to shutter when you put in a new clutch disk it is always wise to also install a new pressure plate suited for that disk.

[Unit 5302]

The problem is you re-used your stock pressure plate. You didn't have the flywheel surfaced either, did you?

Both the pressure plate and flywheel wear slightly with the old clutch. When that happens low spots are created on the surface. Installing a new clutch which does not have the same low spot wear on it creates an imperfect match. Thus you'll have parts of the clutch that are not pressed against the metal to grab properly. The reduced area that is grabbing therefore has a lot more stress put on it, and it has a tendency to glaze that surface.

What the resulting symptom is becomes apparent as a chatter while the clutch seats itself properly. You're going to want to take it real easy on the clutch for a few hundred miles as it's seating, which will now be much more difficult because the flywheel/plate have their own wear patterns the clutch must adapt to. Any hard usage and you'll be forced to take the tranny back off and replace the pressure plate, and have the flywheel surfaced for sure. Not to mention you may need to replace the clutch again.

It's almost always a requirement to replace the pressure plate, and replace/resurface the flywheel when doing a clutch job. While you're in there the pilot bearing and throwout bearing should also be replaced as well.

Hope you get lucky this time around and the clutch is able to seat without glazing stuff.

[Coupe50h]

I just replaced my clutch without resurfacing the flywheel, i can totally understand the wear pattern thing, but my pilot bearing was fine also, with a swap back to my original clutch cable, im getting real smooth clutch engagement, if i ride the clutch out from a stop i notice it shudder just a tiny bit, nothing major, i went to the track wednsday dropping the clutch at 4k and smelling clutch on the top end, im breaking it in right now it's brand new, and grabbing real good, almost too good, i come close to killing the motor at times leaving lights lol, hope you get it figured out.

[lx5091]

I contribute your problem to the flywheel not being resurfaced. Simple as that. You are not going to see or feel with your hand the SLIGHTEST imperfections in your flywheel. But you sure will feel it through the clutch pedal. Just like brakes. But who cares, you said you're taking it apart again anyway. Now you know, that the only way to be certain you won't have the problem in the future is to resurface the flywheel and get a matching clutchdisk and pressure plate. Simple as that.

[Coupe50h]

Now my pp and disk were matching brand new unit like he said, if it comes apart again, do everything right the first time, i just cleaned up my flywheel with brake cleaner and didnt see the slightest of hot spots, so i took a chance, luckily its pretty smooth, if it shuddered violently i would have known right away what it was.

[93 Cobra needs input]

I'm pretty sure you guys hit the problem right on! I sure hope I don't hurt anything, the shuttering is not too bad just a little anoying. I totally new better on the flywheel and pressure plate thing, I put my life savings into the TKO, I was just hoping to get by till first snow! then the motor comes out and my stroker kit goes in. Then I'll do it right, new flywheel "28oz for the new balance", new centerforce dual friction clutch kit, and adjustible cable. Thanks for all the excellent advice and knowledge this site has. If anybody has any other maybe's please send them my way!!

[Unit 5302]

Originally posted by 93 Cobra needs input
I'm pretty sure you guys hit the problem right on! I sure hope I don't hurt anything, the shuttering is not too bad just a little anoying. I totally new better on the flywheel and pressure plate thing, I put my life savings into the TKO, I was just hoping to get by till first snow! then the motor comes out and my stroker kit goes in. Then I'll do it right, new flywheel "28oz for the new balance", new centerforce dual friction clutch kit, and adjustible cable. Thanks for all the excellent advice and knowledge this site has. If anybody has any other maybe's please send them my way!!

Heh, it's gonna be hard to control that throttle input out in way southwestern Minnesota man.

Just one more piece of input. Having the matched clutch disc/pressure plate is not always necessary. One of the most popular configurations is the Motorsport HD clutch and the Centerforce pressure plate. They seem to work really well together.

[Coupe50h]

Well what i meant was using like a new disc and tob, but old pp,

id replace it all, and thats what i did (except the flywheel) unit, my friends stang has a mcleoud disc, and motorsport pp, or vice versa, but anyway he swears bye it, and it has lasted a long time running low 12's with a wheel usually in the air.