Re: carb issues
 

Had a couple holley blue pumps... both were louder than hell.. noth are in the dump somwhere. GOt a mallory comp 140, nice and quiet.. sat for a couple years with fuel in it then tried it and it still works.. going on a friends BB 67 coupe.

Holley does make a quiet blue pump now.. but they're almost $100 more than the regular blue pump..

Re: carb issues
 

Well, as you can see my plugs look new and the wires are good. This is not the same as when a wire goes bad, because I have had that before too.

82GT-
I have the power module filter thingy on there now. Although, I have jump started the car SEVERAL times this year....so that part I didn’t know. Are you actually saying with that Mallory Unilite, we can’t jump start the cars?? I did get the book, going to study in the squad car tonight with any luck of a dead night. Thanks bro!!

Jester-
I have thought several times of going with the Duraspark, but they are so darn big compared to the nice little Unilite, but then again at least they work.

Unfortunately, I may work on it tom morning, but odds are it will be wed before I can get to it.
Stay tuned,
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

You can jump start the car but you MUST unplug the module before you do it though, otherwise, it slowly kills the module. It's written in the instructions but most people don't read them because they figure they already know how to install a dizzy.

Re: carb issues
 

We got a comedian in the house everybody :mad: !!

Seriously, I usually read all that stuff, but I guess I didnt read or remember that part. That makes me suspect a little bit more that the module may be bad.

Thanks for the insight bud!
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Wasn't trying to be asmart ass Ryan bacause....everybody has done stuff like before, including myself. I burned a module or two up before I read on their website that you can't jump start them with the module connected.
I wasn't saying just because you knew how to install a dizzy, you didn't bother reading the instructions. I was merely pointing out how easy it can be for people to do that. I'm here to help

Re: carb issues
 

[QUOTE=82 GT]
Mallory has made a new module called the E module, which is supposed to be better than the original and half the price. That's what I have in now and so far...so good.

QUOTE]

Is this the one you have now?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

No mine is part# MAA-609 unless they have a new part number for the new module now.

Re: carb issues
 

Here is the one I have now: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

It replaces the old MAA-609 unit.

Re: carb issues
 

Brian-
I was trying to give you a hard time. I know you were not poking fun at me...although you should be. I will have to read up on their site about that. Seems kind of stupid that u have to unplug that to jump start it….. I don’t see how it could start then either.

Thanks for the part number.
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

I was wondering that same thing! If you unplug the module, how does the car start? :confused:

Re: carb issues
 

It doesn't.....you have to disconnect the jumpers, plug the module back in and try and start the car. If its not charged enough then you start over....unplug the module and try to jump it again. It'a a PITA but that's what you HAVE to do with these things.
I doubt it's your module though. In my experience, it either works or doesn't work.
I know REV has had one that started back up for awhile and quit again but at that point, you may as well consider it dead.

Re: carb issues
 

I am not sure at this point it is it, but I think I remember it doing this one other time....although it was a long time ago. I read how to check to see if it is working with a credit card, but if it is not that I am a little it stumped right now. Since it actually runs, I would think it will test just fine.

Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Do you have another carb to try?

Re: carb issues
 

Yes I do, although it is not a Holley, so things might not hook up as easily.

I know I have been doing some minor adjustments lately, but this is a new problem that came on rather fast. I am not against swapping, but will probably check all other areas first. By the way, I love my new book.
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Here's a though. Is it possible that your rockers need re-adjusted?
I know you don't have a solid cam but maybe an adjusting nut worked loose. This is an area where nobody has suggested yet.

Re: carb issues
 

It has me thinking that could be a possibility, but I would assume I would here some noises?? I had a rocker work loose due to the rocker conversion kit (pedestal to stud) this spring, and when it went there was no doubt it was not adjusted properly. The difference here is I can get some power out of it by getting on it. When rockers (just one) worked lose, I lost ALL power.

I checked the cap, rotor, and module. The first two are good and the module clicks when I run a card thru it, making me believe it is also good for now. I have a heater core to replace for a buddy, so I may or may not get to this thing by the weekend. I may just take off work so I can tackle it and hopefully figure it out.

Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

I think at this point, I would do the carb. swap even if it means moving things around to get it hooked up. That way, you can eliminate drivetrain and carb.
The only thing left would be valvetrain.
I'm really thinking it's the carb. because when you made changes to it, the symptoms got better or worse.

Re: carb issues
 

Exactly. Most of the time if you can change symptoms, that means you're in the right area. MOST of the time. ;)

Re: carb issues
 

I really don't see how the carb could be responsible for the symptoms you've described, but if it makes you feel better, go ahead and swap it out.

Re: carb issues
 

He already ruled out the converter and tranny, he says. What's left...the carb. and valvetrain.
When he made changes to the carb...it effected the symptoms.
So, it's either the carb or valvetrain or it IS the tranny or converter. He didn't say how he ruled out the drivetrain so we're just going by what he said.

Re: carb issues
 

I have not ruled out the tranny, just a gut feeling that I know it is not that when it comes to my carb issues. As for the new prob, I believe it is new and seperate, but until I find it I am just blowin smoke :confused:

Re: carb issues
 

I was referring to the new problem, but honestly, I don't see how the carb would create a shudder at cruise, either. Still, anything is possible. I think you should try and solve your new problem before digging into the old one.

Re: carb issues
 

I still have the installation instructions for my Unilite. I'm going to try and find that part about not jump starting the car while using a Unilite module.

Rev

Re: carb issues
 

Reread the Unilite installation instruction sheets. Couldn't any reference to or admonishments concerning jump starting the vehicle while using the Unilite distributor. My instructions were published more than ten years ago though. Maybe newer instructions are different than mine.

Rev

Re: carb issues
 

Just exactly WHAT problem are we solving here? Seems like we have several.

FIRST AND FOREMOST!!! Is this something that all of a sudden started happening, or something that's been there since we put the car together, and we're just now getting around to spraying some RAID on that bug?

Re: carb issues
 

I couldn't find mine but here is a link to the online instrustions. Scroll down to where it lists possible causes of module failure.
It doesn't say "jumper cables" but it DOES say "charger", which is the same thing.
Here's the link: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ma...tprocedure.pdf

Re: carb issues
 

I have broken just about everything you can with transmissions in the last ten years and I have had T.C.'s fail before. The original problem may have to do with the lock up, but my gut is telling me we were on to something with the carb. My knowledge of carbs has always been inferior, until recently when I decided I would learn all I could. PKRWUD, your knowledge of the carbs is incredible, so bear with me on this. Holley advises to use the vacuum gauge to figure out the proper power valve, as they also felt that was my problem when I called the tech line. I have not looked to see which power valve I have at the moment, but I am betting it is the 6.5, more then I need according to Holley. Plus, the new Holey book I bought talks about how the power valve can be responsible for surging under loads. You helped me get rid of the off idle stumble, and the only stumble (I called it a shudder) left is under a load, with my AOD. Makes sense to me that I am on to something there. I may rig the Vacuum gauge up in the car to confirm this.

The new problem....I took off work tomorrow so I can figure this thing out. I am basically going to start the F$($$ thing and let it run til the noise gets louder, or I find it, which ever comes first. If that fails, I am going to do hole shots up and down my street til it becomes apparent what has went bad.

Jester-
Other then the throttle not being perfectly smooth thru slow transitions, the car has been fantastic since I swapped the roller motor in last summer. Starts great, runs strong, idles quietly, but has a great lope to the cam. I had just finally decided I can outsmart the carb gods by fine tuning it, thinking I could get it perfect. One day the thing started making the weird noise, and within 20 minutes I had major power loss in the lower rpms. I will fix it tomorrow or break it, either way I am fed up with it :D
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

You're misreading that. Their main concern is that you don't have the module connected if you are using a battery charger set to High. The reason is they don't want you to supply more than 15 volts to the module, and chargers set to High can put out much more than 15 volts. Jump starting is fine, provided the vehicle you're jumping from isn't putting out more than 15 volts.

Trust me on this.

Re: carb issues
 

I think the problem I'm having is in the terminology you're using. A stumble can be caused by a carb issue, a shudder tends to be caused by slippage in the driveline (for example, a burned flywheel will cause a shudder when you let out the clutch). It's all good, I just wasn't clear on what you meant.

Regardless, I agree that your first priority needs to be identifying your new problem. Just out of curiosity, do you have a vacuum advance on your Unilite?

Re: carb issues
 

Well, that's the thing...you really never know if the car that's jumping you charging system is up to snuff or not. I always disconnect mine. Before they made this new "e module", they were about $90...too much for me to take a chance with. :)

Re: carb issues
 

I do have a Vacuum advance.
Going out to work on it now,
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Try disconnecting and plugging the line, and see if there is any difference with your new problem.

Re: carb issues
 

Ok, so here is what I have so far. The #6 header tube about 1 inch from where it leaves the head has a 1.5-2 inch long crack in it, basically right at a bend. Using my official tool (old heater core hose) I have determined this was my "tapping noise" I heard. Even without using the hose, I can still hear it if I listen closely. I also found my header bolts needed some tightening as well.

I use to be able to hear my mech fuel pump before all this happened. Now I am having a hard time hearing its pumping noise. I am half wondering if it is going bad on me, so I may need to put my new carter pump on it. I am trying to hold off til I get a fuel pressure gauge and regulator mounted in the line, which nobody around here has in stock.

Oddly enough, when I try to adjust the idle/air mixture screw, the driver's side will kill the engine if I take it all the way in (about 1.5 turns). The passenger side however, can be closed all the way in and barely if any effects the idle of the car. Ok, so now I know I have a blockage. I also found that if I shoot carb cleaner in the primary idle air bleed (inside the choke horn area) for the passenger side, it made the idle speed up a little. Shooting it in the driver's side one made the idle die down and stumble.

The timing is at 12 degrees, set with both the timing light and a Vacuum gauge. Setting the timing anywhere else right now and it doesn’t run worth a crap. I also noticed my idle is now up to about 1,000-1100 rpms. I tried to get it back down under that where it normally would be, but it just wants to die then.

I am going out to yank the carb, try to clean it out and get it back on before work tonight at 7.

What is everyone' opinion on the headers? They were on the car when I bought it (full length) when it had a c-4. When I put the AOD in it, I had to heat them up near the collector and "tweak" them so they would clear my AOD. I can’t find anyone that makes full length for this combo. Should I get another set and tweak them, or just get a good set of shorty's?

Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Okay, you are having the opposite problem as Brian is. He has a clogged idle air bleed, but you have a clog/restriction in the idle well, on the passenger side of the primary metering block. You want to remove the mixture screws, and spray Brakleen (green can) in the opening where the passenger side primary jet is. Compare it with the other side, and when they both spray out the same on the other side, you should be good.


Just to clarify, adjust the idle mixture and timing with a vacuum gauge, and then turn down the idle speed with the idle speed screw. :)

Re: carb issues
 

Ok, this has gotten so involved, have you told me how to adjust the idle mixture with the Vacuum gauge, because I am not remembering for sure on that one.

I took the bowl and front metering block off. Cleaned thoroughly, used new gaskets, and installed a fuel pressure gauge. I have a consistent 5.5- 6 lbs of pressure.

Notice two things in the picture. The idle speed screw is adjusted so much, my butterflies have exposed the transfer slot, which I have read is bad. Problem is I am not sure how to fix it. Also notice the 3 tears in that gasket. I have no idea what caused that.

Put it back together with a new carb/intake gasket....got my good exhaust note back. Now I just need to adjust the idle mixture screws properly...try to get the butterflies down, and test drive. I would have test drove tonight, but I got to get to work.

PKRWUD-
Plugging the Vacuum advance or its tube had no effect on it before I took the carb off and worked on it.
Thanks,
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Good News! IT drives so sweet now. I now have more Vacuum at idle, up 1" and there is no stumble thru any part of the power band. I have a slight hesitation off the line during hole shots, but it is really hard to tell now that I have some serious traction issues. I have no doubts it will be resloved also with help from Chris.

Looks like I need to try and get the trac loc working so I can make it to the fun day at the track on the 15th. I am also going to try and get the header welded up to get me thru the season, then I will get some new ones this winter. Any suggestions guys?
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

The gasket tear was most likely the cause for low vacuum. I don't remember but that book tells you how to adjust the transfer slot exposure. The bad news is that you will have to remove the carb again to do it.
Your trac-loc is going to HAVE to be removed and rebuilt for it to work again properly.
Unless you have time to remove it, order the rebuild kit and get it back together again, you will be cutting it close on making it to the track on the 15th.
Good to hear you have things sorted out though.

Re: carb issues
 

Well, if the trac loc went south, the I am not too worried. I still have the 408w to run up there, and it is gonna put up way better numbers then mine anyhow.
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Glad to hear that it's running well now. I was pretty sure that it was something in the idle/tranition circuit of the carb. Ive had to do just what you did in the past (remove the metering block and blow out all the passages).

If you have to fix the limited slip, I can reccomend the Auburn Pro unit over the Traction-Lock. I was having to get my Traction-Lock rebuilt every year or so. The Auburn Pro has held up very well now for several years with lots of smoky hole shots. This is with the 8" rear end.

You might just want to get that crack in your header welded as a repair. If you do that youself, be careful not to burn a bigger hole in it with the welding rod. Those headers are pretty thin material. I welded one of my cracked Tri-Y's once but it was such an ugly repair that I did go ahead and replace them.

Rev

Re: carb issues
 

I think me and a buddy are gonna pull the header tonight and take it to a buddy who is a professional welder. He has done some amazing welding for me in the past.

As for the trac-loc....it is still working, just not like I am use to. Before I could not tell is was searching from wheel to wheel, almot felt like a locker. Now I can feel it actually searching back and forth.

Rev-
I sent you a pm
Ryan

Re: carb issues
 

Ryan, I sent you a PM