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Old 01-06-2001, 09:24 PM   #1
86LX5liter
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: NY
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Post carb rebuild

i have a 650 (i think 4150) holley carb. it is in desperate need of a rebuild, but the car runs real rich even tuned as far as possible. i need to decrease the jet size. anyone have experience with jet sizes, that maybe could lend me advice on what size to start from. i have access to a dyno, but it is very expensive, 100 bucks for two runs, and would like to avoid all that cost. thanks guys.

------------------
12.54 @ 110.90
1.62 60'
best with old car, will let you know once i finish the transfer to the new to me car

I have pictures now, and here are the specs

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Old 01-06-2001, 09:34 PM   #2
86LX5liter
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Location: NY
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while i have your attention, i also need to completely empty my fuel tank, and flush out the fuel lines. anyone have any neat tricks to do this? would appreciate any help you can give. thanks again.

------------------
12.54 @ 110.90
1.62 60'
best with old car, will let you know once i finish the transfer to the new to me car

I have pictures now, and here are the specs

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Old 01-06-2001, 09:52 PM   #3
pro88
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You mentioned that it's running too rich all the time? Have you checked the condition of your power valve? You probably should be running a 6.5 or a 6.0. check to see if the power valve has a hole. As for jetting, start with 70's in your primary. Check how far you have to screw your air/fuel mixture out before your rpm's change. It should only be 1 1/2 to 2 turns. When you change your jets, go 4 sizes up or down at a time. I'm running a very healthy '69 351W in my '88 and I ended up with 74's up front and 79's in the rear in my Holley 600. I'm also using a new 6.5 power valve. I was having the same kind of trouble your having at the beginning of the 2000 race season. My car runs 11.80's with a C-4 and 3.73 gears. I don't really think you need to rebuild your entire carb.
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Old 01-06-2001, 10:20 PM   #4
86LX5liter
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hey, that 600 runs good on that 351 right? i have been thinking maybe i should go to a 500, and start from there. start with a new carb, edelbrock this time. the carb was in a rollover a few years ago, and i rebuilt it after that. the car never backfires. what else could have caused that power valve to go?
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Old 01-07-2001, 05:07 PM   #5
pro88
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If you go 500 cfm. make sure you have a Holley and not an autolite carb. The autolite carbs are a pain in the #$$. The Holley is much easier to tune. Power valves with age could cause them to go. One other thing I forgot to mention was if a piece of dirt or a hair or something gets in the needle and seat, it could cause your rich problem too!! Check your needle and seat out. Depending on your motor, a 500 cfm may not be enough. I had one on my '79 driver and changed to a Holley 600 (1850 vacuum seconday) put 68 jets in it and man what a diference. Your power valve gasket may be in just barely off center as well. Check these things out. Good Luck!!
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Old 01-07-2001, 05:39 PM   #6
86LX5liter
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a friend has anedelbrock 500, and he is going to let me try it out, see how it does. but, i think if i go 600, and bring the jet size down, i will be better off. the motor is mild, but is still makes great power. i think i need the airflow of the 600, but with a little less fuel. i tried adjusting the mixture, and when iturn it out 1 full turn, it seems to be the best i am going to get. any less, and the car starts to stumble.
took the car for a drive today, first time out in this chassis. idle is super high when the car warms up, and the throttle lever is against the stopper (whatever that piece is called). pulls hard at half throttle, until 3500 rpm. then the car stumbles and coughs. right when the secondaries open up. got it home, and found two problems. one, even at idle, the secondaries are geting fuel, jets are wide open it seems, and the gas overflows from the carb. saecond, i found i was a little low on antifreeze, and made up a mixture 50/50 with water. poured it in, and it started pouring back out from behind the water pump. it must have been knocked or something during my engine swap. all in all the car runs okay, once i figure the carb out, i should be in good shape. thanks again for all your help.

------------------
12.54 @ 110.90
1.62 60'
best with old car, will let you know once i finish the transfer to the new to me car

I have pictures now, and here are the specs

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Old 01-08-2001, 12:19 AM   #7
pro88
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Now which carb. did you use on your last reply? It sounds like you may need a couple of sizes + or - 2. What is your jetting on your primaries? When you get wide open on your throttle it sounds like your jetting on your secondaries are way too excessive. What's your jetting there? Are you getting black exhaust when you hammer it? Check your float levels, the one in the rear sounds like it's way too high. How's your float level up front. By the way, what ignition system are you using? MSD or stock electronic. What is your timing set at? Total advance that is. It really sounds like your problems with your motor can be solved with a little tuning here and there. I use an MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 coil and stock Ford distributor with MSD cap and rotor set. My plug gap is .045 and my timing is at 39 degrees total advance. My distributor is recurved--basically so is at total advance by 3000 rpm. Again check the carb. on the areas I mentioned and let's see if we can't get ya running right. Good Luck!! Let me know what's happening with it. Try to give me as much carb./motor info as possible.
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