Cast vs forged crank

[CHRIS75]

What's the diff between cast and forged crank beside the price, see i have a 351 that i thought i was going to stroke to a 393, but now i'm thinking about a 408 to 410 maybe.

For the 393 i know you need 302 pistons but are they flat top or domes? And if i go with the 408 what size pistons, rods and crank for it?
Anybody running this set-up with a aod?

THANKS!

[stang_racer20]

Well if you dont plan on racing it a whole lot or putting a blower or nos on it, cast would be fine. Otherwise forged is where you wanna go. A forged part cant usually always handle twice the power/force of a cast part.

[Ieatcamaros]

If you are only going to drive it on the street with no power adder, go cast. It deserves more credit than some people give it. It will handle street racing and occasional trips to the track. The forged crank is stronger than the cast. If you want to run power adder I would definitely get a forged crank. Like stangracer20 said.

If it were me, I would buy a complete stroker kit or short block. Instead of trying to mix and match parts. In the end, you won't save much money. I plan on buying a stroker kit from Coast High Performance. You can get a 393 kit with a cast crank, forged pistons, "race ready rods", plasma moly rings and clevite 77 bearings for $899. The same in a 408 for $100 more. Upgrade the rods and the kit cost $300 more. I am looking at getting the CHP street fighter 393 kit which is $1199.

Nothing wrong with the AOD, but I would put a c4 behind it. Just my .02.

[CHRIS75]

I looked at CHP kits too, but i also look at D.S.S kits too i guess there the same, so it all comes down to money and i plan on spraying it too! Like to goe into the 9-10's range. the guy at the machine shop ask me why would i want to do that when i could get the same results just rebuilding it plus less money(i think he retarded though). Just can't decide which one to do 393 or the 408/410 kit. so i need a forged crank in order to spray it it only see street use(lot of ricers to smoke hehe)

[stang_racer20]

If your gonna spray it looking for 9's, definitely go all forged bottom end with some nice loc-wire head gaskets and a custom nitrous cam. Couldnt hurt to use a girdle as well.

[StangFlyer]

Originally posted by Ieatcamaros
I plan on buying a stroker kit from Coast High Performance. You can get a 393 kit with a cast crank, forged pistons, "race ready rods", plasma moly rings and clevite 77 bearings for $899. The same in a 408 for $100 more. Upgrade the rods and the kit cost $300 more. I am looking at getting the CHP street fighter 393 kit which is $1199.

I used the CHP 377 dominator kit when I built the current 377 stroker engine in my car. They have some very nice kits...

You can run a fairly substantial amount of power on a cast crank. I've run respectable horsepower mills with both 302 and 351 combinations, using power adders, on a cast crank with absolutely no problem. But, if you're building a serious horsepower application that you'll be using for drag race duty then a forged crank is certainly something you should start looking at.

[CHRIS75]

IEATCAMARO'S

Nothing wrong with the AOD, but I would put a c4 behind it. Just my .02.


What kind of cars or truck had c4's in them? going to the wrecker this weekend maybe able to pick it up there cheap!

[Ieatcamaros]

Most of the late 70's and early 80's cars had the c4 in them. Most of the trucks had c6's. And the ones that had the c4's were the ones that took the 164 tooth flywheel. If you get one from a junkyard, get the flywheel and starter too. So you know you have all matching parts. Even if they are broke or don't work, you will have a sample part. A ford fairmont is a good place to look for the c4 combo. I wish I could find a fairmont around here. Make a good sleeper.

[CHRIS75]

OK so now i know what i'm looking for then as far as the c6's go are they any better than the c4 or should i just stick with the c4?

I have learned alot, i'm going for a forged bottom end complete kid (spraying it) a c4 trans, 164 tooth flywheel and the starter

THANKS GUYS

HEY IEATCAMARO'S did you get the address?

[Ieatcamaros]

I got it.

I would stick with the c4 as the aftermarket is much better for that trans.

[420nitro]

Ok here's the thing about c-4's verses c-6's.
Lets just say we are going to spend the big bucks ($1,500-$2,000) range for a trans. alone

The c-4 will hold up to a approx 900 horsepower car for a limited time. (dynamic transmission)

The c-6 will hold to over 1500 horsepower. People say that the c-6 eats more power then the c-4. Well TSI transmission in Addison,Il has proven that theory wrong when the C-6 is built right, with all the bells and whistles. (approx. $2,000)

Now the next thing...if you make over 900 horsepower in a 3000 pound car or less, you don't want a 3-speed any more! You want a power-glide!
So this topic can go on and on!

I run a C-4 and when it's done....I am going to a Glide.

I would put a C-6 in a heavy race car under 1,000 hp... that the owner, never wants to mess with the trans for like 3 years plus!
my.02

[90GT398]

Tranny debates will go on forever just like the classic 331 vs 347 debate.

420 hit a lot of good points. But NMRA Renegade cars are making a ton of power and running C4's, most are dynamic's trannies but regardless they are C4's that weigh over 3000 pounds and are running 8.90's and faster.

C4's are not crazy about rpm's at all, they are a tough little tranny but a couple of 8500rpm plus shifts, and they are smoked, but judging by your combo, you do not have to rev to 8500 so you should be alright.

[CHRIS75]

it not going to be a strip car, its mainly for the street so i can use cast steel crank then? will the crank be able to handle the nitrous. don't really want ot spend that much money. I lokked at CHP website and found the 393 kits for 1099.00 everything is forged except the crank. If i run nitrous will it hurt the crank?

Thanks guys!
Oh found c-4 in the junkyard, it looks like it's in good shape!

[Rev]

I've heard that cast cranks are good up to 500 HP more or less. Any more than that tou may want to pay for forged.

Rev

[DirtKing]

Make sure you guys differentiate between stock "cast" crankshafts and aftermarket "cast" steel cranks. The stock 351 crank is much stronger than the stock 302 crank, but it shouldn't be spun as high due to extremely large mains. (thus the popularity of the cleveland journal size in after market 351w blocks) However, crossdrilling the mains effectively lets the bearing "see" half the rpms. Also, nitriding any crank will add strength. My scat cast steel crank is good for 750 hp, but my block, even with main support is the weak link in my application. That being said, i wish i would have purchased the forged steel unit, but they were rather hard to find for a decent price at the time. I also sent my block, crank and rods in for a 24 hour cryogenic treatment...make up your own minds as to the benefits.