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03-07-2001, 01:23 AM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Aberdeen, WA 98520 U.S.A.
Posts: 7
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cat and air pump
anybody got any advice about removing cat's and air pump and all those freaking vacuum lines? been having cooling problems so i bought a new radiator and water pump. and i've pulled the whole top end off to clean it up and put in new head gaskets and fix the oil leak on the front of the intake. figured i'd delete the air cond., cats and air pump now while the engine bay is almost empty. any tips? please email
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03-07-2001, 09:47 PM | #2 |
Moderator
Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan, USA
Posts: 1,001
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First, it's illegal to remove any of that stuff, and good luck reselling the car. I know I wouldn't buy one with anything removed.
Second, cats are required to keep some backpressure, otherwise your EGO's will throw a fit. Not cool. Air pump is questionable... Third, Moved to Windsor Power Forum ------------------ Capri306, Moderator, The Mustang Works Online 1979 Mercury Capri, 5.0L -- C4 -- 2.73 1987 Mustang LX Notch |
03-08-2001, 01:25 AM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: New Hope MN USA
Posts: 276
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Wow Capri,
Could be me,but that sounded pretty rough on the new guy/ girl, looks like he was justlooking for guidance. Well regarding the cats, if you are getting long tube headers, I didn't see whether you are getting a new off road h-pipe or high flow h-pipe w/ cats. Either way you will need a new one. Stock will not fit with the long tubes. Second, unless you plan on keeping this car forever, I would keep the A/C. Regarding the Air pump, it depends again on your set-up, I removed mine, because it was no longer needed or used, but performance wise, thier isn't any change, just less stuff to work around.You will need a shorter belt, I think mine was 70.5 w/ air cond. and you have to be careful how you route the belt, and how close the belt is, it is tight from the alt pulley to the belt tensioner, with my current set-up I think I will get an A/P idler. That is something you should think about as well. What coolant problems were you having, it may not be the radiator or water pump. Sounds like you are going at this pretty quick, if I were you I would do one thing at a time, just to see what mods really made a difference. And don't forget sub-frame connectors. ------------------ 91 LX Convertible Gray on Red B&M Shift improver kit,ASP red alum. underdrive pulleys, Richmond 3.73 gears, 1 5/8 Flowtech long tube Headers and off road h-pipe, Flowmaster 2-chamber cat-back with S.S exhaust, MSD 6A Ignition with coil,Cap and rotor, Taylor Pro wires, K&N 12" conical filter system, Jet stage 2 performance chip and just purchased some GT40P heads, looking at exhaust, Lentech Street Terminator plus on it's way... |
03-08-2001, 10:41 AM | #4 |
The Photoshop Guru
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Mecca, Indiana
Posts: 1,419
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YANK IT ALL OUT!!
I did on mine and have no problems at all. Those thermactor pipes that were bolted to the back of the head can be used to plug off the holes if you flip them over. But since you have the heads off I think you can just screw a plug in there because I think they are threaded holes. Just ditch the vacuum lines goint to the thermactor stuff. As for the A/C do yourself a favor and get the Ford Racing A/C delete kit. It relocates the power steering pump so it would be where Ford would have put it if the car originally came with no A/C. You have no belt rubbing problems etc this way too. I assume since you are doing all this yourself you know what you are doing and I don't take into consideration that just because you are new to this board you are new to working on cars (or even Mustangs). Anyway, if you have any more questions this is the place to ask. ------------------ Indiana Stangers Association Buy your parts here |
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