Carb / Cool Air?

A Wild Neg · 05-21-2001, 02:15 PM

Any packages, or has anyone done this and can give me details on how, to get a 'ram air' type kit to bring it basically just cold air from outside the car into the carb air filter? I see cool air induction systems and ram air kits for fuel injection, can't find any for carb cars. When things get really warm, I start to loose a lot of horse power and someone suggested that. They said my engine compartment is getting to warm, and its burning very hot air. when I first take off once I get it out of the garage, it rocks. I can take it down the street, floor it just abuot anywhere in first any rpms..and get it to just squeel. But once I start driving, ussualy like 15 minutes or so, it'll loose alot of power. I don't think its the coolant, because that hits 200 degrees really fast and stays there. Even after 15 minutes it'll be at 200 or a little less, depending on how the weather is. Anyone have any other suggestions on what it could be? Oil heating up maybe? Do I need a oil cooler?

And anyone in the Indiana/Illinois border area that knows of a good transmission rebuild shop? I will buy all the peices. I was quoted like $400 for a syncro and another $400 to install it. I'm looking at $800 to fix second gear syncro in my car. And I found syncros, gears, shafts, way cheaper. Hell, I could get almost all new syncros and gears for $400. So I'm looking for someone who can rebuild it, or maybe buy parts too if they buy it for the same price as I'm seeing them. Thanks!

- Kevin

dinomite · 05-21-2001, 02:41 PM

You have a couple options:

First you could simply remove some of the heat from the engine compartment with a cowl induction hood (actually meant for carbs!) or some hood vents (search in here (windsor power) there was a topic a couple months ago) which I think look a lot better than a big fat hood lump that everyone has. A cowl hood actually might be good if you get one of those K&N filters with the "power top" thingie that lets air through the top.....that'd be super cool

You could also grab a dual snorkel setup off an older stang, or buy a new one such as this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/1...ox/index.shtml

On the tranny thing, i don't know about those prices, but your probably mostly paying for someone to take it apart as transmissions are pretty complex.

[This message has been edited by dinomite (edited 05-21-2001).]

Dark Knight · 05-21-2001, 03:42 PM

what year do you have? the stock ducting on the pre-1986 cars works pretty good.. you could probably extend the fender ducts further towards the front of the car.. and make a ram air setup...
you might check the thermostat, you might have a 190* one .. then it will always run around 200*

------------------
84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives stock shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day
265 on the mph/weight chart

A Wild Neg · 05-21-2001, 03:52 PM

Well, I checked out that ram air. Thats basically exactly what I have been looking for. I e-mailed them and asked what exact application do I need for my 83 mustang. I am trying not to have to get a cowl, but I might just get one. I been checking out the Storming Norman hood I think its called or something simplar (Different spelling). That combo their should help cool the engine compartment big time and help bring cool air into the firey pits of the cyclinder..

As far as the 200 degrees, I heard that wasn't TO bad. Cooler is better, of course. I do have a 190. I was told to try that one but do you suggest different? Someone said to get rid of them and get restricters and try all the sizes till you find the best combo.

Also, we replaced the timing chain recently *I broke it*. Is there anyway to put on a waterpump backwards or anything that can be cahnged to make it run backwords? My dad said I was getting poor circulation. And when I went outside and looked in the radiator while it was warmed up, the coolant was barely moving. When I changed my truck and my other car, it moves rapidly. You can see the water just flowing away. Should I get a new water pump maybe?

- Kevin

Dark Knight · 05-21-2001, 08:36 PM

try a 160 or 180 thermostat... do you have the original 83 air filter setup? those ductsin the fenders pull cooler air from inside the fender and work pretty good..

------------------
84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives stock shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day
265 on the mph/weight chart

Dark Knight · 05-21-2001, 08:42 PM

oh yeah, you might need a new radiator..
the water pump cant be put in backwards,you MIGHT have put the belt on wrong...
and 190* is gonna take awhile to warm up..
I run a 160* thermostat in my 84 and it doesnt get real hot even in 110* temps ;-)

------------------
84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives stock shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day
265 on the mph/weight chart

A Wild Neg · 05-22-2001, 07:46 AM

I'm going to pikc up a 160* thermastat and see how that goes. The radiator in there now is a high temp alumninum one or something like that. It's alot bigger then the stock one. I took the stock cooling fan off and got a better electric one. I have a flex fan to put on, but I could never find a shroud big enough to fit the fan. So I am sticking with the electric one which seems to suck enough air in.

What way should the water pump be going? When we took the belt off, we wrote down how it went back on, but I don't know if we did it right or not. Should it be turning clock wise or counter? I thought it was counter right? It's a 91 block in this car (83 is the year of the car). It's caberated. Thanks!

- Kevin

Dark Knight · 05-22-2001, 11:56 AM

Counter clockwise ;-)

------------------
84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer
3.55's, underdrives stock shorties
stock cam, 1.7's
14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day
265 on the mph/weight chart

jseaton · 05-22-2001, 01:11 PM

Your problem may be "vapor locking". This is where the fuel get hot and basically evaporates before it get to your cylinders. They make special insulation to go around the fuel lines to deflect the heat, or they make cool cans in which you fuel line runs through basically a small can which is filled with ice. I would but a cowl hood and move the fuel line to where it's not close to the exhaust.

Good Luck!

------------------
82- 347, SVO A4, Scat Billet Crank, Crower Rods, Nowak Pistons, TFS Heads W/Crower Stainless Rockers, Victor Intake, Gold Claw, Paxton Fuel system, MSD ignition,

05-21-2001, 02:15 PM	#1
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	Carb / Cool Air? Any packages, or has anyone done this and can give me details on how, to get a 'ram air' type kit to bring it basically just cold air from outside the car into the carb air filter? I see cool air induction systems and ram air kits for fuel injection, can't find any for carb cars. When things get really warm, I start to loose a lot of horse power and someone suggested that. They said my engine compartment is getting to warm, and its burning very hot air. when I first take off once I get it out of the garage, it rocks. I can take it down the street, floor it just abuot anywhere in first any rpms..and get it to just squeel. But once I start driving, ussualy like 15 minutes or so, it'll loose alot of power. I don't think its the coolant, because that hits 200 degrees really fast and stays there. Even after 15 minutes it'll be at 200 or a little less, depending on how the weather is. Anyone have any other suggestions on what it could be? Oil heating up maybe? Do I need a oil cooler? And anyone in the Indiana/Illinois border area that knows of a good transmission rebuild shop? I will buy all the peices. I was quoted like $400 for a syncro and another $400 to install it. I'm looking at $800 to fix second gear syncro in my car. And I found syncros, gears, shafts, way cheaper. Hell, I could get almost all new syncros and gears for $400. So I'm looking for someone who can rebuild it, or maybe buy parts too if they buy it for the same price as I'm seeing them. Thanks! - Kevin

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05-21-2001, 02:41 PM	#2
dinomite The Dude Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Arlington, VA Posts: 1,262	You have a couple options: First you could simply remove some of the heat from the engine compartment with a cowl induction hood (actually meant for carbs!) or some hood vents (search in here (windsor power) there was a topic a couple months ago) which I think look a lot better than a big fat hood lump that everyone has. A cowl hood actually might be good if you get one of those K&N filters with the "power top" thingie that lets air through the top.....that'd be super cool You could also grab a dual snorkel setup off an older stang, or buy a new one such as this: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/1...ox/index.shtml On the tranny thing, i don't know about those prices, but your probably mostly paying for someone to take it apart as transmissions are pretty complex. [This message has been edited by dinomite (edited 05-21-2001).]

05-21-2001, 03:42 PM	#3
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	what year do you have? the stock ducting on the pre-1986 cars works pretty good.. you could probably extend the fender ducts further towards the front of the car.. and make a ram air setup... you might check the thermostat, you might have a 190* one .. then it will always run around 200* ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives stock shorties stock cam, 1.7's 14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day 265 on the mph/weight chart

05-21-2001, 03:52 PM	#4
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	Well, I checked out that ram air. Thats basically exactly what I have been looking for. I e-mailed them and asked what exact application do I need for my 83 mustang. I am trying not to have to get a cowl, but I might just get one. I been checking out the Storming Norman hood I think its called or something simplar (Different spelling). That combo their should help cool the engine compartment big time and help bring cool air into the firey pits of the cyclinder.. As far as the 200 degrees, I heard that wasn't TO bad. Cooler is better, of course. I do have a 190. I was told to try that one but do you suggest different? Someone said to get rid of them and get restricters and try all the sizes till you find the best combo. Also, we replaced the timing chain recently I broke it. Is there anyway to put on a waterpump backwards or anything that can be cahnged to make it run backwords? My dad said I was getting poor circulation. And when I went outside and looked in the radiator while it was warmed up, the coolant was barely moving. When I changed my truck and my other car, it moves rapidly. You can see the water just flowing away. Should I get a new water pump maybe? - Kevin

05-21-2001, 08:36 PM	#5
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	try a 160 or 180 thermostat... do you have the original 83 air filter setup? those ductsin the fenders pull cooler air from inside the fender and work pretty good.. ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives stock shorties stock cam, 1.7's 14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day 265 on the mph/weight chart

05-21-2001, 08:42 PM	#6
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	oh yeah, you might need a new radiator.. the water pump cant be put in backwards,you MIGHT have put the belt on wrong... and 190* is gonna take awhile to warm up.. I run a 160* thermostat in my 84 and it doesnt get real hot even in 110* temps ;-) ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives stock shorties stock cam, 1.7's 14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day 265 on the mph/weight chart

05-22-2001, 07:46 AM	#7
A Wild Neg Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Bloomington, IL Posts: 26	I'm going to pikc up a 160* thermastat and see how that goes. The radiator in there now is a high temp alumninum one or something like that. It's alot bigger then the stock one. I took the stock cooling fan off and got a better electric one. I have a flex fan to put on, but I could never find a shroud big enough to fit the fan. So I am sticking with the electric one which seems to suck enough air in. What way should the water pump be going? When we took the belt off, we wrote down how it went back on, but I don't know if we did it right or not. Should it be turning clock wise or counter? I thought it was counter right? It's a 91 block in this car (83 is the year of the car). It's caberated. Thanks! - Kevin

05-22-2001, 11:56 AM	#8
Dark Knight Registered Member Join Date: Oct 1998 Location: Az Posts: 854	Counter clockwise ;-) ------------------ 84 convt,'95 302,AFR's, performer 3.55's, underdrives stock shorties stock cam, 1.7's 14.06@100.21, 255RWHP on a hot day 265 on the mph/weight chart

05-22-2001, 01:11 PM	#9
jseaton Registered Member Join Date: Sep 1998 Location: carrollton,texas,usa Posts: 59	Your problem may be "vapor locking". This is where the fuel get hot and basically evaporates before it get to your cylinders. They make special insulation to go around the fuel lines to deflect the heat, or they make cool cans in which you fuel line runs through basically a small can which is filled with ice. I would but a cowl hood and move the fuel line to where it's not close to the exhaust. Good Luck! ------------------ 82- 347, SVO A4, Scat Billet Crank, Crower Rods, Nowak Pistons, TFS Heads W/Crower Stainless Rockers, Victor Intake, Gold Claw, Paxton Fuel system, MSD ignition,