clutch quadrant new

surfsup · 01-21-2007, 08:16 PM

When replacing the factory quadrant with an adjustable , is anyone installing the spring from the old unit, or are you leaving it off, I installed mine but the clutch pedal doesn’t feel right, seems like it’s not returning fast enough and I’m thinking maybe the spring has something to do with the way the pedal returns,

~The Jester~ · 01-22-2007, 07:58 AM

The little clockspring is for the adjustment part. Or did you have another one under there? Since you're running a Cable, you can always add another spring on the pedal if you'd like.

surfsup · 01-22-2007, 09:13 AM

I assume you are talking about the spring that was fasten to the quadrant it self, when I removed the old set up I had two springs, one on the quadrant, and one on the adjuster, you can tell something is not right, the pedal returns but not fast enough to power shift the car, before I changed everything I had no problems,

Coupe50h · 01-22-2007, 09:41 AM

I had the same question a couple years ago when i replaced mine with a d&d quadrant, someone here told me i didnt need the springs.
I seewhat your saying about the return, but it should return smoother, maybe not as fast, the cable adjustmant is very important, i busted a cable in this process, still cant figure out the firewall adjuster so i just screw it all the way in. The return process is in the pressure plate correct? someone?

~The Jester~ · 01-26-2007, 12:29 PM

Correct coupe. The "return" IS your pressure plate. Aftermarket quadrants don't have adjuster or springs, cuz ya don't need them. The factory adjuster allows you to simply grab the pedal, and yank it towards the dash to adjust the cable.

Firewall adjusters are different according to manufacturers, but are also simple to adjust. Check with YOUR manufacturer, but here's how we do the one on my car. Run the adjuster all the way in towards the firewall. Then pull on the cable, check the "distance" between the adjuster and the cable end. Turn the adjuster nut OUT until you have about the width of a dime inbetween the pieces. Let go of the cable, and you're set. Some fine tuning will be needed after driving the car and getting a feel for it.

Hope that helps!!

01-21-2007, 08:16 PM	#1
surfsup Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: jersey Posts: 147	clutch quadrant new When replacing the factory quadrant with an adjustable , is anyone installing the spring from the old unit, or are you leaving it off, I installed mine but the clutch pedal doesn’t feel right, seems like it’s not returning fast enough and I’m thinking maybe the spring has something to do with the way the pedal returns, __________________ 92 LX coupe 2.3 auto. 86 302 block, valve relief’s cut myself, SVO GT40 heads port and polished, 1.6 rockers, E cam, timing chain, rpm manifold port and polished, Holley 670 avenger, Mac long tubes and cat back exhaust, elec fan, 195 stat, T5 trans, pro 5.0 shifter, lakewood loop,adj cable, bbk U Arms, Mac L Arms, rear drag springs with air bag and new isolators, pro com 3 way shocks, 8.8 3.73, autometer gauges, oil, water, tach, and pod, 150MPH speedo

01-22-2007, 07:58 AM	#2
~The Jester~ Rat Killer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cold ass Ohio Posts: 1,143	Re: clutch quadrant new The little clockspring is for the adjustment part. Or did you have another one under there? Since you're running a Cable, you can always add another spring on the pedal if you'd like. __________________ d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....

01-22-2007, 09:13 AM	#3
surfsup Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: jersey Posts: 147	Re: clutch quadrant new I assume you are talking about the spring that was fasten to the quadrant it self, when I removed the old set up I had two springs, one on the quadrant, and one on the adjuster, you can tell something is not right, the pedal returns but not fast enough to power shift the car, before I changed everything I had no problems, __________________ 92 LX coupe 2.3 auto. 86 302 block, valve relief’s cut myself, SVO GT40 heads port and polished, 1.6 rockers, E cam, timing chain, rpm manifold port and polished, Holley 670 avenger, Mac long tubes and cat back exhaust, elec fan, 195 stat, T5 trans, pro 5.0 shifter, lakewood loop,adj cable, bbk U Arms, Mac L Arms, rear drag springs with air bag and new isolators, pro com 3 way shocks, 8.8 3.73, autometer gauges, oil, water, tach, and pod, 150MPH speedo

01-22-2007, 09:41 AM	#4
Coupe50h Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: SanAntonio, Tx Posts: 957	Re: clutch quadrant new I had the same question a couple years ago when i replaced mine with a d&d quadrant, someone here told me i didnt need the springs. I seewhat your saying about the return, but it should return smoother, maybe not as fast, the cable adjustmant is very important, i busted a cable in this process, still cant figure out the firewall adjuster so i just screw it all the way in. The return process is in the pressure plate correct? someone? __________________ X-Texas highway patrol ssp 1990 coupe - exploder Gt-40 iron heads, Explorer intake, 19 lber's. E-cam. crane 1.7 rollers. 190fp. 75mm maf. 65mm tb, tubular subframe connectors, mac cai, Asp crank pulley, T-5, king cobra clutch, flowtech 1-5/8 unequals, mac X-pipe Frpp driveshaft, lakewood Lca's. race weight 3,160 12.69 @ 107.35, 1.71 60' 26x8.5 drag's 3.90 gear 13.20 @ 106.91 - 235/60/15 firestones 2.3 60' 3.27 gear

01-26-2007, 12:29 PM	#5
~The Jester~ Rat Killer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Cold ass Ohio Posts: 1,143	Re: clutch quadrant new Correct coupe. The "return" IS your pressure plate. Aftermarket quadrants don't have adjuster or springs, cuz ya don't need them. The factory adjuster allows you to simply grab the pedal, and yank it towards the dash to adjust the cable. Firewall adjusters are different according to manufacturers, but are also simple to adjust. Check with YOUR manufacturer, but here's how we do the one on my car. Run the adjuster all the way in towards the firewall. Then pull on the cable, check the "distance" between the adjuster and the cable end. Turn the adjuster nut OUT until you have about the width of a dime inbetween the pieces. Let go of the cable, and you're set. Some fine tuning will be needed after driving the car and getting a feel for it. Hope that helps!! __________________ d-Con Racing "Nothing fancy, just 347 inches of RAT POISON!" MICE need not apply.....

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