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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 172
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![]() I just got my car a few days ago, and am already thinking about modifications... What would you guys do? Keep in mind im 16 and am on a very very limited budget. Thanks
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91 Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible AOD Mdifications: K&N filter, Mac Catback, BBK aluminum u/d pulleys. |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Portage
Posts: 239
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![]() Im 18 and on a very tight budget myself. A K&N is always good, a good exhaust (If you like flowmasters Summit has them for 228 with free shipping if you give them a catalog number out of Muscle Mustang & Fast Fords) i here good things about pulleys too. Hope this helps.
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'95 GT convert. K&N, C&L mass air meter, Performance distributors sreamin demon coil, dyna mod, live wires, king cobra clutch, flowmaster american thunder exhaust, UPR billet adjustable shift handle, Crane Cams Fireball HI-6 box,underdrive pullies, 255lph fuel pump, UPr short throw shifter, caster camber plates, 03 cobra lower A arms, bullit suspension, cobra front brakes |
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#3 |
It's never clean enough!
Join Date: Jan 1999
Location: Shaler, PA
Posts: 1,542
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![]() It depends on how limited your budget is. If you can afford, gears, they would be your best bet. I would just give the car the basic mustang "tune up"...gears, pulleys, and exhaust. They are all relatively cheap and don't have to be done at the same time.
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~Dan 2001 SVT Lightning ![]() 89' GT : Taking up garage space and waiting for a buyer... Rice Hater's Club - Member #11 |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Arlington, Washington
Posts: 92
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![]() The above mods are good. Gears, exhaust, K&N filter. Pulleys are questionable because if you put in a stereo then your charging system won't be at full potential because the alternator will spin slower. If you want pulleys check with March Performance, they have a power pulley set that is designed for stereo systems. If you can spare the money I would get the fenderwell kit for your filter so your engine is not breathing the hot air from the radiator. Those are good ways to start. After the basics you may want to plan your build up. It get expensive.
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Black 1990 LX DSS Racing Super Pro Bullit 331, AFR 185, Anderson B31 Cam, 1.6 DSS rockers, Cobra Intake w/ 2 phenolic spacer, Aluminum DS, 3.73 gears, Tremec 3550, Lakewood SFI Bellhousing, MSD Digital 6+, Spintech Side Exhaust, |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Maple Ridge B.C. Canada, The Best Place In The World
Posts: 871
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![]() i am in the exact same boat as you. i started out with a K&N, i would never buy one again, i noticed no power.
remove the air silencer, set TPS to .98, if you run on good gas(91 or so) bump the timing, shifter(always helps the feel) cat back, h-pipe, and headers are usually a waste unless you have headwork. i also have an electric fan, and removed the smog pump.
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1984 Bronco II, 36" Michelin Military Tires, 95 EFI 5.0, NP435 Tranny, NP208 Doubler, NP205 Transfer Case, Fill Size Solid Dana 44 Front End, WH Progressive Rate Rock Crawling Coils, Bronco 8.8 Rear, Skyjacker Softride Leafs, 5.13 Gears, Detroit Locker. Final Crawl Ratio Of 175:1 88 GT Best 60ft. 2.181 Best ET 14.350 Best MPH 98.01 ~WRECKED!!!!~ |
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#6 |
Conservative Individualist
Join Date: May 1997
Location: Wherever I need to be
Posts: 7,487
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![]() A K&N filter offers about 1 HP gain so you won't 'feel' it but it can be used for many years with just a washing and reoiling and it does filter much better than a paper filter. Worth the money but no, not a HP increase that you'll notice.
Advancing the timing to 14 degrees is free and you will notice the difference. 3.73 or 4.10 rear axle gears are a great mod but run around $400. with pro installation (highly recommended). Underdrive pulleys are under $100. and offer about 5 -8 HP gain but as mentioned, you could have charging problems. Always do a full tune-up on a newly aquired car. Plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, air & gas filters, TPS adjustment, timing. Good luck with your 'Stang! |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Raynham, Ma, USA
Posts: 189
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![]() If I were you, I would pick up the new issue of 5.0 Mustang and Super Fords. Its the august issue. The cover article is "Fast Start". It has a list of the most important first mods to put on the stang and a few paragraphs explaining each one. It is a very informative issue, especially for beginners like some of us. It is helping me a lot in making my decisions to start the modification process.
Many of them have been mentioned here. Here is a quick list but you can pick up the issue for an explaination on each. Rear End Gears Pulleys Cold-Air Intake Mass Air Meter/Throttle Body Exhaust H-Pipe and Cat-Back (Headers if you have the money) And then a stretch is to go for the Heads, Intake and Cam. I hope that this helps a little, but again, the article is very detailed and product specific. Scott
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95 Red Mustang GT Pro 5.0, MAC fenderwall cold air induction kit, BBK Off-Road H-pipe with Magnaflow cat-back system Mostly stock(looking to modify) Rice Haters Club Member #63 |
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#8 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() All good ideas. All I can do is just reiterate what's already been stated.
Since you just got the car and likely don't know a whole lot about the maintenance schedule it has been on, start with an oil change and a basic tune-up as per Mr 5.0's post. Next comes all the free stuff. Include advancing initial timing to 13-14 degrees, TPS setting to .95-.98 or so, and air intake silencer removal. If you have any questions on how to do these...just let us know and we'd be glad to walk you through it (I don't have any idea how much you know about Mustangs...). After that, get ready to spend a bit more money as you go. 1. K&N filter. You could go for a simple panel filter or a open cone element. With a panel filter, you don't have to worry about fan wash messing with your idle as much and they still flow really well. 2. Cat-back exhaust...woudln't worry too much about headers just yet. The exhaust itself will only pick you up minimal power now, but you will love the sound and it makes for a great foundation for future mods. 3. Gears. At least 3.73's for your AOD. If you don't mind spending a few more dollars at the pump each time, go with 4.10's. That will probably put you at about 2600-2700 or so at 70mph (I believe I ran about 2300-2400 after I put 3.73's in before the converter). This is a bit expensive to buy the gears and then pay to have them put in, but definately a must for Mustangs. After those basic mods, a whole world of possibilities opens up. First, decide what you want your car to do. Do you want it to remain a daily driven street car? My guess is that you do. In that case, you have to weigh the potential outcomes of your mods and decide if they are worth it in terms of streetability. If fuel mileage is important to you and you do a lot of highway driving, you may need to consider 3.73's rather than the better performing 4.10's. You get the picture with this line of thought? Another thing to consider: Do you want to focus on straight-line acceleration, or more on carving up the twisties? Do you want to dessimate all at the track, or simply be competitive with most of what's out there? Do you want to remain naturally aspirated or go with forced induction or nitrous? Do some thinking about where you want to go with your car before you mod it. Then you can peice together a road-map of modifications and develop a list of parts you'll need along the way. We can help if you want; you only have to ask. Have fun with your car, but be safe. And welcome to MustangWorks. ![]() --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mt. Prospect,IL
Posts: 474
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![]() The best thing to do in ur car is 4.10 gears because of ur aod, that is not the cheapest mod but it is the best mod i think for the money, and trust me u can feel it, but that is just my 2 cents
-raini
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87-ford-mustang-SOLD! mods: 3:73's, off road h-pipe, b303 cam in gt- 40 motor w/ Power Plus intake, edelbrock 70mm tb & egr spacer, 72mm C&L, bbk long tubes, tremec tranny, centerforce dual friction clutch, upr and lwr CA's 255lph FP and soon more to come.... when i have money again SOME ADVICE Don't do burn outs in reverse it is very expensive New times with dead hook on dr's 13.27@103 with 2.0 60 foots w/100lb system Fastest time to date: 12.8@113 |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Downers Grove, IL
Posts: 464
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![]() I'm on a limited budget and this is what I've done-
Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Flowmasters and a cold air intake with a K&N (really helps the air flow better into and out of the engine) Electric Fan and ASP Underdrive pulleys. Those helped "free" up horsepower. I wouldn't do the fan right now because of your budget, I had to do mine because my old one decided to break into 2 pieces. I'm hoping to do my gears soon. From what I've read about, it's definately worth it.
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1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59 |
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#11 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Just a little FYI for the future.
If you're planning on keeping the AOD, there are some things you can do to make it run with the stick boys. Now everyone you talk to (mostly) is going to tell you that the AOD is a dog. They're right. The AOD is a dog in stock form. The worst part of the tranny is the valve body design and another major problem with the AOD is overdrive breakage. First, an OD band, no matter how strong you make your AOD isn't going to live up to much torque. It just isn't designed for that. It's there to cruise down the highway with. Therefore, treat it accordingly. I would suggest running around town in D rather than OD to avoid excessive shifting back and forth from 3rd to OD. Also, avoid flooring the car while cruising in OD. This will cause a harsh downshift into 3rd which is pretty hard on the OD band I would guess a cause of a good number of breaks. If you do want to get on it while in OD, pull the tranny back into 3rd, wait for it to shift, and then step on it. Also, get a tranny cooler. Heat is enemy number one of trannies. To make the AOD run better in the future, think about investing in a 2800 or so torque converter from the likes of PI, Lentech or PA. This, in my opinion, is the absolute best mod you can do for an AOD car. Also, you need a shift kit from Transgo or Baumann. Makes 'em tons more fun to drive. Or, if you want to go the extra step, look into a manual shifting valve body as to avoid the 1-D-1 shuffle to hold 2nd. Alot of information and suggestions here. Just stuff I've picked up from others and stuff that has worked well for me for four years. --nathan
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'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 172
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![]() Thanks so much for all of your help guys! I definitly want to keep my car as a daily driver, as it is my only car. Therefore, I have to keep cats on there.
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91 Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible AOD Mdifications: K&N filter, Mac Catback, BBK aluminum u/d pulleys. |
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#13 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Raynham, Ma, USA
Posts: 189
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![]() Quote:
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95 Red Mustang GT Pro 5.0, MAC fenderwall cold air induction kit, BBK Off-Road H-pipe with Magnaflow cat-back system Mostly stock(looking to modify) Rice Haters Club Member #63 |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Downers Grove, IL
Posts: 464
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![]() My car is my daily driver, I don't even have any intention of taking it to the track this year, or maybe not even next. I just went with the offroad H-pipe for better sound, performance, and gas mileage as opposed to my 13 year old cats. Only downfall is like Scott said, you got to swap it out to pass emissions.
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1989 Black Mustang GT Hatchback, Underdrive Pulles, Electric Fan, Cold Air Intake, Headers, Offroad H-Pipe, Magnaflow catback, Steeda Tri-Ax, Fluidyne Aluminum Radiator, Timing at 14*, 3.73's Coming not so soon: 408w Ricer Hater's Club Member #59 |
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#15 |
DURKA DURKA!!
Join Date: Sep 1997
Location: Lubbock, TX...(TX panhandle)
Posts: 1,418
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![]() Or just move to the West Texas South Plains where we don't have sniffer tests
![]() --nathan
__________________
'91 GT, Coast 347, 9.5:1 compression, full intake, Wolverine 1087 cam, exhaust, Keith Craft ported Windsor Jr. Irons (235 cfm intake, 195 cfm exhaust), AOD, PI 3500 converter, Lentech valve body, 3.73's (4.10's in the works), and Yokohama ES100's out back. Daily Car: '04 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6MT |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 172
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![]() I am just curious. What does it mean when you adjust the timing? What effects does it have on the car? How do I do it? What do I need to do it? Thanks
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__________________
91 Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible AOD Mdifications: K&N filter, Mac Catback, BBK aluminum u/d pulleys. |
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#17 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: SanAntonio, Tx
Posts: 734
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Police package 5spd 90 Lx, Stock original motor, 3.27grs, BM fan, fms 10.5 clutch, D&D quadrant, and adjuster, ADS chip, 180 stat, mac cai, mac h-pipe, mac subframe connectors, ASP crank pulley, ripper shifter, 26x10.5 M/T sport pros welds. 246 hp according to analyzer ![]() Race weight: 3,120 E.t-13.57 with 26x10.50's e.t. streets. 1.88 60' mph- 99.92 mph |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Pierre Part, La. U.S.A.
Posts: 1,850
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![]() Get the K&N 40.00, adv the timing, A good tune up, remove the air silencer (every thing in the fender), Get an adj fuel press reg 40.00, Get a long tube 1 1/2 headman header 90.00, gut the cats, remove all UNNESSASARY WEIGHT, when and if you replace the rear tires, get them for traction, Avengers PEP Boys and cheap, When you can swing it 4.10 gears. Oh yea, gears, 4.10s. Did I mention gears? 4.10s, and last GEARS GEARS GEARS. And always ask here before you spend 1 cent. GOOD LUCK wecome to the Mustang world.
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88workcar 1988 Mustang LX 342. 417rwhp @ 6800. 28 X 10 ET Drag, 4.30s, 10.69 @ 126.43 1.42 60ft. 11.13 @ 127.7 on BFGs 1.72 60ft Rice Hater # 42 To be old and wise, You must first be young and stupid ![]() |
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