Complete loss of power....

65efi · 05-27-2002, 04:29 PM

My '92 5.0 has completely lost all power under any load. It starts fine, idles perfect, has no service codes, and runs fine if you drive it just off idle. (manual trans)

Any time you start putting a load on it, it feels like it's 'bogging down'. It will slowly work it's way up through the RPM range, but it has absolutely no power.

Fuel pressure is good (I adjusted to everything from 30 to 45 pounds), installed a new coil and TFI module, cleaned the K&N, tested the IAC, cleared the KAM, tested the O2 sensors,

Any thoughts???
Thanks

Mr 5 0 · 05-27-2002, 04:56 PM

Oh boy.

Check the TPS voltage. Look for a steady progression as you open the throttle. New TPS runs around $35. from Ford (recommended).

65efi · 05-27-2002, 06:12 PM

Thanks, but I forgot to mention that I did that as well. Also, just pulled out the MAF and it looked like new.

Also replaced all the spark plugs (they didn't look bad), cap, & rotor. I'm thinking it's something simple I just haven't thought of yet.....

Stang39r · 05-28-2002, 12:02 PM

oh god i hope you figure out whats wrong. i was just going to make a new post here but you basically just said all i was going to say. did you do any mods right before this loss of power?? the only thing i did was install an o/r h-pipe. i know i would lose in low end but not in high end as well. if feels as tho you have lost about 50hp right?? its ok when you lightly put your foot on the gas but once it goes down about 2" then the rpms climb with the car going up in speed the same.

hey, i want to keep in touch with you if you do figure it out or i figure it out somehow. my aol sn is HazMat404. good luck

65efi · 05-28-2002, 03:01 PM

My next step is to really review the timing. Even though it's not popping or stumbling, I'm guessing that the ignition advance isn't working right (feel like I'm really begining to reach here).

Of course, if the timing was not advancing correctly, it should come back to life once I reach WOT, since Ford uses a fixed timing advance number for WOT. Maybe there is a problem with the SPOUT connector/wiring. Unfortunately, nobody else I know has a 5.0 that I can borrow the distributor or ECU from.....

I'll let you know if I get any headway with it .

Thanks

Stang39r · 05-28-2002, 03:53 PM

well like i asked before...did you install anything to make it do this or just outta no where?? i took off my catback today and put it back on with new bolts, nuts and washers. i can feel some power back and a little cleaner exhaust sound. im going to take it to a shop tomorrow to see if i can get the headers/h-pipe bolts taken off and tightened again.

i also need to check if i plugged all my vaccuum lines in. i never unplugged any but one might have popped loose or something. we will see.

65efi · 05-28-2002, 08:52 PM

There were no modifications that brought on this severe change. It happened shortly after doing a huge power brake in the garage (bunches of smoke...). After that, the car sat for several months until recently when I started diving into it to see what's wrong.

I was going to suggest that you throw the old cat system back on to see if it restores your power. If you're going to be working on your ride much, you should probably invest in a simple code scanner. They're available in most Auto stores, retail for $50 or less, and give you access to read trouble codes off the ECU. You could probably even look on E-Bay and find one. It's a must have item.

65efi · 06-02-2002, 11:02 AM

Update - Just for grins I took the alternator in to have it tested. It's only putting out one-third the power it should. I've ordered a 140 amp one-wire unit from Summit (the motor is in my 65 and the one-wire is a much cleaner install).

I know the EEC-IV is fairly picky about good clean power. I'm hoping the old alternator was simply not supplying adaquate juice to the coil under load, thereby causing my drivability issues. I might be reaching here, but perhaps it explains why it starts/idles fine but has no power.

I'll post when it's back together.

Oldschoolpony · 06-02-2002, 11:14 AM

If the battery had enough power to start the car, it had enough to run the car.. My 2 cents.

Also, how about your fuel filter? a clogged filter can give pressure, but restricts volume. Also, have you checked that your cats arent clogged?

65efi · 07-09-2002, 11:11 PM

PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I debated whether or not to post this, but I was reminded of a valuable lesson that many of us could use now and again.

I had tested everything on the motor - TFI module, TPS, O2, ISC, swapped the MAF, etc... then I read the post by PKRWUD about engine vacuum. Hooked up my guage, and I only had 15" of vacuum at idle. I adjusted the idle to where it had 19", pulled out of the driveway, and left 10 miles of rubber in the distance of one block. The car runs perfect.

Often times with computer controlled cars it's easy to start testing sensors, blaming relays, swapping computers or MAFs..... but always chack the basics first.

Turned out the car was just retarded (or was I the one retarded...)

TwiLighTBluEGT · 07-09-2002, 11:40 PM

manycars23 · 07-14-2002, 01:21 AM

I may just be retarded as well......however what exactly did you do to make it regain power? my 94 does just about the same as yours did and I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on....you said you adjusted the idle to make it regain the loss? what did you do to adjust it?

65efi · 07-14-2002, 10:56 PM

Sorry - what I meant to type was that I adjusted the TIMING up to whre it had 19" of vacuum.

manycars23 · 07-14-2002, 11:00 PM

ok so you set the timing at 19 degrees btdc...I am still confused or you really mean the vacum of the timing and if that is what you meant how do you do it and what is 19" what does the " mean...I am just confused and kinda new so bare with me!!

65efi · 07-14-2002, 11:33 PM

I had checked the vacuum with the engine idling and saw that it only had like 15 inches of vacuum. I turned the motor off, turned the distributor to advance the timing, and restarted it. This time, with the timing now advanced, I had 19 inches of vacuum.

I actually have no idea what the timing is currently set at, as I haven't had a chance to put a light to it.

Don't sweat the confusion, sometimes I think the things I type only make sense to me!

If you're having a loss of power, I'd suggest making sure you've looked at the basics: check the engine timing, spark plugs, engine vacuum, fuel pressure, air filter, etc... If everything checks out, you'll have to keep digging.

gtsr515 · 07-15-2002, 04:10 PM

Scary tuning methods...............

65efi · 07-15-2002, 11:03 PM

What do you mean?

speedismoney · 07-17-2002, 12:44 PM

I think he is referring to how you adjusted your timing. Basically you just guessed. You should really use a timing light and adjust it while the car is running.

USMC302 · 07-17-2002, 12:55 PM

Sounds like you had more of a timing problem than a vacuum problem

jk37 · 08-15-2002, 08:22 PM

I am confused too. what vacuum line do you messure to get 15 or 19 from

05-27-2002, 04:29 PM	#1
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	Complete loss of power.... My '92 5.0 has completely lost all power under any load. It starts fine, idles perfect, has no service codes, and runs fine if you drive it just off idle. (manual trans) Any time you start putting a load on it, it feels like it's 'bogging down'. It will slowly work it's way up through the RPM range, but it has absolutely no power. Fuel pressure is good (I adjusted to everything from 30 to 45 pounds), installed a new coil and TFI module, cleaned the K&N, tested the IAC, cleared the KAM, tested the O2 sensors, Any thoughts??? Thanks

06-02-2002, 11:14 AM	#9
Oldschoolpony Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Gainsville,Fl Posts: 229	dont think so. If the battery had enough power to start the car, it had enough to run the car.. My 2 cents. Also, how about your fuel filter? a clogged filter can give pressure, but restricts volume. Also, have you checked that your cats arent clogged? __________________ http://www.mustangworks.com/cgi-bin/...splay.cgi?1546

07-09-2002, 11:40 PM	#11
TwiLighTBluEGT Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Massachusetts Posts: 157	:-)

07-15-2002, 04:10 PM	#16
gtsr515 Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Sunny, Hot, Sebring, Florida Posts: 725	Scary tuning methods............... __________________ Remember...2nd place is 1st place for losers!

07-17-2002, 12:55 PM	#19
USMC302 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Gallatin, Tn Posts: 1,326	Sounds like you had more of a timing problem than a vacuum problem __________________

05-27-2002, 04:56 PM	#2
Mr 5 0 Conservative Individualist Join Date: May 1997 Location: Wherever I need to be Posts: 7,487	Oh boy. Check the TPS voltage. Look for a steady progression as you open the throttle. New TPS runs around $35. from Ford (recommended).

05-27-2002, 06:12 PM	#3
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	Thanks, but I forgot to mention that I did that as well. Also, just pulled out the MAF and it looked like new. Also replaced all the spark plugs (they didn't look bad), cap, & rotor. I'm thinking it's something simple I just haven't thought of yet.....

05-28-2002, 12:02 PM	#4
Stang39r Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Chicago Posts: 53	oh god i hope you figure out whats wrong. i was just going to make a new post here but you basically just said all i was going to say. did you do any mods right before this loss of power?? the only thing i did was install an o/r h-pipe. i know i would lose in low end but not in high end as well. if feels as tho you have lost about 50hp right?? its ok when you lightly put your foot on the gas but once it goes down about 2" then the rpms climb with the car going up in speed the same. hey, i want to keep in touch with you if you do figure it out or i figure it out somehow. my aol sn is HazMat404. good luck

05-28-2002, 03:01 PM	#5
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	My next step is to really review the timing. Even though it's not popping or stumbling, I'm guessing that the ignition advance isn't working right (feel like I'm really begining to reach here). Of course, if the timing was not advancing correctly, it should come back to life once I reach WOT, since Ford uses a fixed timing advance number for WOT. Maybe there is a problem with the SPOUT connector/wiring. Unfortunately, nobody else I know has a 5.0 that I can borrow the distributor or ECU from..... I'll let you know if I get any headway with it . Thanks

05-28-2002, 03:53 PM	#6
Stang39r Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Chicago Posts: 53	well like i asked before...did you install anything to make it do this or just outta no where?? i took off my catback today and put it back on with new bolts, nuts and washers. i can feel some power back and a little cleaner exhaust sound. im going to take it to a shop tomorrow to see if i can get the headers/h-pipe bolts taken off and tightened again. i also need to check if i plugged all my vaccuum lines in. i never unplugged any but one might have popped loose or something. we will see.

05-28-2002, 08:52 PM	#7
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	There were no modifications that brought on this severe change. It happened shortly after doing a huge power brake in the garage (bunches of smoke...). After that, the car sat for several months until recently when I started diving into it to see what's wrong. I was going to suggest that you throw the old cat system back on to see if it restores your power. If you're going to be working on your ride much, you should probably invest in a simple code scanner. They're available in most Auto stores, retail for $50 or less, and give you access to read trouble codes off the ECU. You could probably even look on E-Bay and find one. It's a must have item.

06-02-2002, 11:02 AM	#8
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	Update - Just for grins I took the alternator in to have it tested. It's only putting out one-third the power it should. I've ordered a 140 amp one-wire unit from Summit (the motor is in my 65 and the one-wire is a much cleaner install). I know the EEC-IV is fairly picky about good clean power. I'm hoping the old alternator was simply not supplying adaquate juice to the coil under load, thereby causing my drivability issues. I might be reaching here, but perhaps it explains why it starts/idles fine but has no power. I'll post when it's back together.

07-09-2002, 11:11 PM	#10
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!! I debated whether or not to post this, but I was reminded of a valuable lesson that many of us could use now and again. I had tested everything on the motor - TFI module, TPS, O2, ISC, swapped the MAF, etc... then I read the post by PKRWUD about engine vacuum. Hooked up my guage, and I only had 15" of vacuum at idle. I adjusted the idle to where it had 19", pulled out of the driveway, and left 10 miles of rubber in the distance of one block. The car runs perfect. Often times with computer controlled cars it's easy to start testing sensors, blaming relays, swapping computers or MAFs..... but always chack the basics first. Turned out the car was just retarded (or was I the one retarded...)

07-14-2002, 01:21 AM	#12
manycars23 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: indiana Posts: 11	I may just be retarded as well......however what exactly did you do to make it regain power? my 94 does just about the same as yours did and I can't for the life of me figure out what is going on....you said you adjusted the idle to make it regain the loss? what did you do to adjust it?

07-14-2002, 10:56 PM	#13
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	Sorry - what I meant to type was that I adjusted the TIMING up to whre it had 19" of vacuum.

07-14-2002, 11:00 PM	#14
manycars23 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: indiana Posts: 11	ok so you set the timing at 19 degrees btdc...I am still confused or you really mean the vacum of the timing and if that is what you meant how do you do it and what is 19" what does the " mean...I am just confused and kinda new so bare with me!!

07-14-2002, 11:33 PM	#15
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	I had checked the vacuum with the engine idling and saw that it only had like 15 inches of vacuum. I turned the motor off, turned the distributor to advance the timing, and restarted it. This time, with the timing now advanced, I had 19 inches of vacuum. I actually have no idea what the timing is currently set at, as I haven't had a chance to put a light to it. Don't sweat the confusion, sometimes I think the things I type only make sense to me! If you're having a loss of power, I'd suggest making sure you've looked at the basics: check the engine timing, spark plugs, engine vacuum, fuel pressure, air filter, etc... If everything checks out, you'll have to keep digging.

07-15-2002, 11:03 PM	#17
65efi Registered Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 37	What do you mean?

07-17-2002, 12:44 PM	#18
speedismoney Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 1	I think he is referring to how you adjusted your timing. Basically you just guessed. You should really use a timing light and adjust it while the car is running.

08-15-2002, 08:22 PM	#20
jk37 Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Florida Posts: 9	I am confused too. what vacuum line do you messure to get 15 or 19 from

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